Re: Reed valves
Hi Soxfan,<br /> No priming necessary, however, if the upper and or lower seals are shot, or if the babbit bearing between the upper and lower crankcase chambers is worn, it may not draw fuel. When you check by feel, you are actually feeling compression in both the cylinders and the crankcase. The reed valves prevent that crankcase compression from escaping back out the carburetor and allow a vacuum in the crankcase to draw fuel in on the upstroke. They're located on the reed block, a piece of aluminum that forms the center main bearing of the motor, located directly behind the carburetor. You can visually inspect them with a dentist's mirror - the little round one he pokes in your mouth. You'll have to pull the carb and have a peek inside. If you see any holes or cracks in the shiny silver pieces in there, then you may have reed problems. I've seen them get gummed up from sitting. A simple test to see is they're freed up is to put your finger in there and GENTLY presson the valves. When you pull the motor over with your hand covering the crankcase opening you should feel a modest suction action. If there is no suction or if it both sucks and blows back out, then you might have a reed problem.<br /> How is compression on your motor? Also, is the alingment bolt that holds the reed block in place present and tight? It's about a 5/8" head with a locking washer folded over the top of it.<br /> Also, check to make sure the upper main bearing cap is not loose - not uncommon for the bolts that hold it down to loosen up over time.<br />- Scott
