Reeds?

[racerone]

Then with new reds it should start even quicker.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

I'm currently messing with idle screws and other things. I think the connecting rod from the distributor tower to the carb is off. There's no way carefully replacing all the reeds could be a bad thing. I was very careful. So that may mean the old ones needed to be replaced and I just need to re-tune it.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

Also, I installed all new gaskets on the deflector plate and carb adapter. I carefully cleaned the old gaskets off and checked each piece for flatness. There didn't seem to be anything that required exact tolerances during reassembly.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

I wish there was a way to know if the motor is running lean or rich. like for example is it possible to use a vacuum gauge. I already know about all the symptoms of both lean and rich but they are very easy to diagnose. A gauge would be better.

 

[Nordin]

As you have removed the carbs and intake manifold I would suggest to do the link and sync as Frank A that is in the top of this forum.
With the air/fuel mixture screws at 1 1/8-1 1/2 turn out from seated and the throttle pick up point adjusted right it would fire up in about 5 sec with the primer bulb firm and the cold start knob out the throttle at maximum at the remote control and choke activated.
To check if you are running lean or rich you can run the engine at WOT for a minute and the shut it down at WOT with the keyswitch or if you have a overboard lanyard.
Pull the plugs and check how the look like.
They should be light brown in color.
BTW: Were the reeds that you moved worse than the "new" one.
Did they have more gap?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Nordin gave you most of the directions for the test.
Go for a ride, run the motor get it good and hot, then run at wide open for a few minutes, then at wide open, just turn the key off. Don't throttle back or shift to N. Kill the engine then pull the plugs and check the burn.
Throttling back lets the motor run at a different fuel setting and can change the color of the plugs.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

The new reeds were better than the old ones I replaced. The motor sings above 2000 rpms.
I think I have been struggling a long time with the idle. I am currently thinking the link and sync is off. I think the idle ignition advance is too low. I may have to go outside the norm for finding a setting that works. I'll take a good idle over WOT any day of the week. I rarely run at WOT anyway on this 50 year old Chrysler. Most talk about checking the advance at WOT but what should the idle advance be. I assume it's critical for easy starts and consistent idle.
Here is another key question, I often run around fishing and come to spots, turn the motor off and drift around for up to 30 minutes, it seems like it should start right up (without choke) since it should still have some heat in the cylinder. Has that been your experience. I could actually live with a hard start first thing at the dock but struggling to start out on the water is not fun for me or my fishing buddies.

 

[Nordin]

My experience is to give some throttle and sometimes some choke even if warm.
Have a Mercury Thunderbolt 800 80Hp 1972, same actions with it.
Some more throttle and sometimes a short choke.
Soo this is no issue for me, but remember every engine is individual.
Some need a special route to start cold or warm, my own opinion.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

Thanks for you input Nordin. Real expereinces are critical to setting proper expectations.
Ok, checked ignition timing just to be sure and it is correct and it is. Point gap is correct. I am sticking with the tower to carbs length adjustment that seems like I may be adding a bit more advance overall. I have settled on 1 1/8th now on idle screws so that is heading in the right direction. Left it alone for 45 min and started it right up with no choke or throttle advance. Left it alone again. Cylinder head was around 100 degrees. Fired right up. WOW! Ok I'll try to calm down. I have been here before. I still need to run it on the lake. Can't wait to do that and post the results.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

Thanks for you input Nordin. Real expereinces are critical to setting proper expectations.
Ok, checked ignition timing just to be sure and it is correct and it is. Point gap is correct. I am sticking with the tower to carbs length adjustment that seems like I may be adding a bit more advance overall. I have settled on 1 1/8th now on idle screws so that is heading in the right direction. Left it alone for 45 min and started it right up with no choke or throttle advance. Left it alone again. Cylinder head was around 100 degrees. Fired right up. WOW! Ok I'll try to calm down. I have been here before. I still need to run it on the lake. Can't wait to do that and post the results.

I forgot to include that I went through the choke setting and found they weren't precisely right so fix that. Also the carb butterfly valves were not precisely synched so really took my time and got them right. So we'll see.

 

[Nordin]

About setting the timing, on these Chrysler and Force engines you just set the timing at WOT.
Timing at idle will be what it will be. After the timing at WOT you just set the air/fuel mixture and the idle speed.
But if you want check the timing at idle with a timing light.
My experience is that timing at idle will be about 3-6dgr BTDC.
Set the timing at WOT at 28-30dgr (factory spec. 32dgr) BTDC in my opinion.
The fuel today is not as good as it was in the 70es when these engines was manufactured. I know that in the US the octane value is not the same as it is in Sweden Europe where I am.
We have 95 octane E10 and 98 octane E10 and E5.
I use 98 octane E10 or E5 in my old OBs.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

Very helpful thanks Nordin. I get that doing the timing at wot allows you to set timing without running the motor and that is great but this should help me optimize my idle setup. I only run what in the USA is called REC90 or no-ethanol fuel. The factory manual says these old Chrysler's are designed to run on 87 so running it on 90 octane should allow me to increase the timing a little and still be safe. I'll post the results from the next time out on the water. At this point I'm fine with blowing it up and moving on to a Yamaha.

 

[Nordin]

WinnerCougar74, do not blow it for a Japanese Yamaha 4-stroker.
Handle it with care and do not run the hell out of it.
You are doing a historic nostalgic deed to preserve it.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

Thx, I don't like filing up landfills with stuff that is still useful so I'm doing my best to make her run right. It seems like a decent 2 stroke. If it blows up I also like Evinrudes 90-115 4 cylinders from the 90's and almost any Evinrude 70hp. They are all loop charged instead of crossflow. Smoother and better MPG. Prolly just staying under 4500rpms will keep it from blowing up.

 

[racerone]

Bot all V-4 Evinrudes were loop charged.

 

[tg3690]

Handle it with care and do not run the hell out of it.

Sound advice for sure.....

 

[tg3690]

You are doing a historic nostalgic deed to preserve it.

That's what I tell people......but they just call me "cheap" anyway!

 

[WinnerCougar74]

Ok, had it out on the lake twice this week. Running better but still struggles to start warm. Verified decent spark on all cylinders with an adjustable spark tester. So it's probably good enough for now. Everyone seems to say these old Chrysler's don't run as well as the newer outboards. Thanks for all your help.

 

[Nordin]

WinnerCougar74 what is your starting routine to get it start warm then?
Interesting to know!