Regulator question-Did something stupid, is my boating vacation cut short?

[rothfm]

Had just accepted via another post that this new to me 1993 140 Looper, was not overcharging (13.2 idle, up to 14.7 Wot).

I was out fishing 20 offshore, and inadvertently moved my batt switch to off, while running! I have a Make-before-break switch. U usually only change with Engine off. But this time I had alot going on in the boat. Wanted to move from batt2 to batt1.

It didnt run long like this, maybe a minute....What gave me a clue was my fishfinder( remember main Batt switch was OFF), for some reason had all streaks on the screen-it shouldnt even have been powered.

Then I heard a "scratchy" sound coming from the remote warning horn...Usually indicative of a Regulator/tach/ground/ Feedback issue through the horn..Remembering this, I shout down immediately, and noticed the switch off.

Put it to #1, restarted and right away notice my idle charge at 12.6( usually is 13.2+) It stays at 12.6 until 1/2 throttle, where it only goes to 13.1...Only at WOT I see it up in the higher ranges of 13.5 to 14.5 depending on RPM.

SO THE QUESTION IS:

1) Am I even changing at idle and low rpm's now?? ( I think not)
2) Whats the likely culprit?

I will be Ohm measuring the stator later....I now these stators are usually varyable from 3-9amps...Could the lower amp portion of this stator be shot etc??

I'm just worried that i do alot of trolling, and do spend nights out there..I will now have to pay extreme attention to what Battery I'm on, if not charging, to preserve a starting battery for a trip home.

 

[interalian]

Unlikely to damage the stator, but the rectifier diodes may not appreciate having no load.

 

[gm280]

Not sure you did anything to the rectifier. You surely didn't effect the stator. The fact that you are saying that at different RPMs the voltage does raise up means you are getting something through the rectifier. However, I would test it to verify it is all good and not just part of it. Not knowing for certain, but I think that stator is a three wires output setup. SO you could have one or two of the three segments opened up and still have some output to the battery. But without being there and testing things for myself, that is only a wild guess. I would certainly test the rectifier with an ohm meter, without the engine running of course, to see what you have. JMHO

 

[rothfm]

Thank you

Yes, ive had plenty of setups not charge or overcharge, but not somewhere in between.

Im not as familiar with this motor as i am all the crossflows from my past

Really seems like no/little output at low Rpm range, wierd

Will post my findings to help someone else

 

[rothfm]

Oem manual ohm checks pass:

Primary charge coil measures 450ohms in spec

Sensor coil 130 across and 35 pin to pin, in specs


Stator resistance yellow wires .75ohms, in spec.

Unable to do V peak readins or running Ammeter/variable load checks.

The manuals Output Curve Chart shows appx 1/2 of the max 9amps at 1000rpm.

I only show battery voltage of 12.6 at idle, and basically same up at 3000, then it moves to 13.1, and slowely to 14.5 at 4000+

So yes, seems even though these ohm tests pass, to fully diagnose I would really need a varyable load tester Ammeter in-line, while replicating thier "Amp-to-RPM" Curve Chart.

Really seems like the Reg is doing little at idle up to 2500-3K.

Will water test again fishing tomorrow, if it appears the same, will shop for a regulator

At first with this motor I was concernes of overcharging with 14.7 at 1000-1500rpm

Thats why i noticed it right away after the Batt switch mess up, then i only had battery voltage until higher rpm

Owell, always something-least i know what it is

 

[juno pierrat]

whats the tach doing ?

 

[tblshur]

im sure u have checked all batt and ground connections after the problem. dont depend on dash voltmeter after the issue, check with another one just some thoughts good luck :joyous:

 

[jakedaawg]

Might have blown the regulator side of the rectifier.i don't know what a make or break switch is, different names in different places and all. Many times, if a battery switch is used while engine running it creates either a dead short momentarily or 12 x # of battery over voltages momentarily. With two baths you briefly ran at 2r volts. That fries sensitive stuff quickly.

 

[rothfm]

Yes, used my Fluke meter as well...Voltage remains at Battery charge levels, until it kicks to only 12.9-13.1 at appx 1/2 throttle.

Tach is fine...I have had several (diff motors) exhibit remote horn scratch sounds when regulators are going bad...So that was my first clue that something wasnt right.

Clearly not following the manuals Curve Chart, at the low RPM range. I will be replacing it. I have spares, but this one is a bit different.

Thanks everyone