Reinell T1801 Complete Restore

[pcmpete]

Reinell T1801 restoration
Table of Contents:

# Task Description

1. Remove wood / fiberglass & foam COMPLETE
2. Grind hull COMPLETE
3. Build new Transom & Install COMPLETE
4. Build new Engine Stringers & Install COMPLETE
5. Plan and fit drainage system COMPLETE
6. Glass Foam Stringers & Bulkheads COMPLETE
7. Build & install new deck In Progress
8. Install Transom Shield In Progress
9. Install Motor & outdrive
10. Design & Build new bench seat In Progress
11. Design & Build new Sunpad In Progress
12. Design & Build new bucket seats
13. Design & Build new bow seating In Progress
14. Re-wire everything In Progress
15. Install Radio/Speakers

As I got it, I like the lines and can see the finished boat in my mind
This boat had a Mercruiser 470, which I was going to use until I read about. :facepalm:
But I will be installing a Ford 302 and volvo outdrive. This combo should produce a good pulling boat.
The hull is 17ft and 81" beam.
So I have created a template to help with the volvo transom cutout using the Mercruiser as a base.

I am finding it hard to get information about this boat. So when I am finished it will be unique

After I long break from restoring my Reinell T1801 after relocating.
The stringers are foam cored, but the 70% of the fiberglass that covered the stringers has broken away from the hull. The foam itself is dry, but coming away from the hull in places. Would it be ok to use this foam and re-glass over them or should I remove all foam stringers and replace with ply?


Your thoughts please?

 

[robaru]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

I had water saturated in my foam stringers on my reinell. If you have the glass delaminating from the foam, hopefully there is no water intrusion in the keel area. If the foam is still dry, I'd reglass over it. Seems it would be alot easier than glassing in new wooded stringers. I cut out the wet part, built a form lined with plastic, and poured in new foam, and then glassed over that. I added glassed in pipe in the keel, through the foam stringers to help let water run into the bilge and not get into the foam again.

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

So far, the stringer foam is dry,but the foam under the tank is wet wet wet. So I will replace that foam with closed-cell sheets and just reglass the stringers. The deck area of the open bow had a drain hole that just fed into the foam of the keel/tank area, what where they thinking when they designed/built that?

When I am finished EVERY section under the deck will have drainage access to the bilge.

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Finally got the tank out. It is a 34gal tank and was full of fuel. I wasn't sure how long the fuel was sitting there, but I didn't want to use it my truck. So I put ad on craigslist for '34gals of free fuel. In the Pheonix metro area only 6 people called about it.

I have the 90% of the floor ripped out and grinding is under way.
I plan re-using the foam stringers but re-glassing them.

I still have to remove some of the deck plywood that is under the bow's sub-deck, but I do not want to remove the cap.

I live in town now with HOA in my neighborhood so all work has to done in my garage with main door closed. This has slowed progress down big time.

I miss my barn in the country.

I have constructed a tent over the boat to 'try' and keep the dust from getting everywhere.

 

[RICHARD5]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

What was the cause for the area under the tank being wet? Check your fittings, etc.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

I feel your pain with the HOA. I am having to keep mine at bay right now.

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

What was the cause for the area under the tank being wet? Check your fittings, etc.

It was wet with water, not fuel. The whole hull was wet, from bad drainage and a PO letting it go to hell.
I will be testing and cleaning the tank. I would hate to build a new deck and then discover that there is an issue with the tank. I also thought about putting an above deck tank in and using the space in the belly for storage, but I like the fact that this 17ft hull has a big 34gal tank in the belly, low center of gravity and longer trips between fill ups.

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

I feel your pain with the HOA. I am having to keep mine at bay right now.

and the worst part is that we pay extra for it!!!!
My neighbor just got solar panels plastered all over the roof of their house, what an eye sore, but I can't store any of my two boats in the driveway and only allowed open my garage door for 30mins MAX at a time. Crazy world......

 

[oops!]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

i just saw your tent......MAKE SURE you have GREAT safety equipment for grinding......read safety basics for grinding and glassing...it is a stickey.....that is the minimum...

i just posted more about safety equipment in my hull thread,,,,just click the last page bud

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

i just saw your tent......MAKE SURE you have GREAT safety equipment for grinding......read safety basics for grinding and glassing...it is a stickey.....that is the minimum...

i just posted more about safety equipment in my hull thread,,,,just click the last page bud

Just read your post about the safety equipment. I put as much on as possible. but the with heat already on the rise here I need to get all my grinding done quick. The towel around your head in a good idea, but it would hold a lot of sweat. LOL
I only use the flap disks on my grinder, I have had a bad experience in the past with a solid disk breaking off. I use my multipurpose tool wherever possible, to cut down on the amount of grinding. But the fiberglass just eats those blades up.
Hopefully all the removal work will be finished by next weekend, so I can move to sanding and cleaning.

I don't want to rush this, but I want to do my glassing before it gets too hot and the resins working time is reduced.

Until next time.....

 

[SawDust{RM}]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

So far all of the donor boats I have bought the PO's seemed to have left the plug in & left to sit outside, it seems that some folks are just as Dumb about putting the plug in as they are about taking the plug out.

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

So far all of the donor boats I have bought the PO's seemed to have left the plug in & left to sit outside, it seems that some folks are just as Dumb about putting the plug in as they are about taking the plug out.

Ain't that the truth.... :facepalm:

 

[RICHARD5]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

I meant the fittings would sweat or act as a conduit for water/moisture intrusion. I think if it were from fuel you would have likely told us about the fumes, etc. It's a big Duh! to say being on the water is being exposed to high humidity. But many folks are surprised just how insidious moisture can be.

 

[oops!]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

dont worry about the resin time.......even here at over 100 deg.....a 1.7 raito is still about 15 mins before it strats to go.....a trick i use for really hot days is to keep the resin bucket in a pail of cool water.......the resin thinks it is only 60 deg untill it hits the substraight....

as far as grinding.....a 24 grit resin backed disc on a good rubber (not plastic) backing pad is what i use......chews up glass no problem.......but watch out....if you catch an edge and the disc shatters....its very dangerous.....

btw....i really like the look of that hull......the tris can really beat the stuffings out of you at sppd in chop.....but you have a really nice v.
it reminds me of the newer mastercrafts and tige's.

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

dont worry about the resin time.......even here at over 100 deg.....a 1.7 raito is still about 15 mins before it strats to go.....a trick i use for really hot days is to keep the resin bucket in a pail of cool water.......the resin thinks it is only 60 deg untill it hits the substraight....

as far as grinding.....a 24 grit resin backed disc on a good rubber (not plastic) backing pad is what i use......chews up glass no problem.......but watch out....if you catch an edge and the disc shatters....its very dangerous.....

btw....i really like the look of that hull......the tris can really beat the stuffings out of you at sppd in chop.....but you have a really nice v.
it reminds me of the newer mastercrafts and tige's.

I like the hull too, plenty of room for a 17 footer, and I should be able to keep up with a the Tige's and mastercrafts when I drop my V8 into it
The tri sides/front barely touch the water when I at rest, only 1 or 2 inches, so underway it should handle like a V hull 95% of the time, hopefully. But the extra room in the bow will be nice to have, my other boat is a 16ft v hull with a closed bow, and there is no room at all.

Enough talk, back to the grinding

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Finally got all the old fiberglass and wood out of the hull.
One question, the foam core of the stringer system has come detached from the hull in places. Does this need to be secured back to the hull before I glass over it? If so, what is the best way of doing this? 75% of the system is still attached.

Thanks

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

From what I see/understand of the pics..you should be fine with removing bad/delaminated tabbing..and retab the stringers.

YD.

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

I took a break from the fiberglassing work, and started work on the replacement engine for the Reinell.

Before

After

Replaced the starter, alternator, raw waterpump, timing chain and put new gaskets on.
And painted it good old Ford Blue and aluminum
Only thing let to do is fit a Pertronix setup.


Just I thought I would share

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

I am at the stage where I am ready to re-glass my foam stringers and bulkheads. But I want to put drainage holes in the two foam bulkheads, each are about 9" thick. I plan fitting 1" PVC pipe but not sure on how to create the hole in the bulkhead. One method I thought of was to cut 'cutting teeth' into the end of the PVC pipe and manually cut the foam and then trim the pipe flush with the bulkhead and glass.
Would this method work or does someone have a better way of doing this?
Thanks

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Re: Reinell Foam stringers repair/replace?

Finally got round to finishing up the transom ready to be bonded to the hull.
I used two pieces of 3/4" ext. grade plywood that has been drying in my garage with the nice dry Arizona air helping

I encased the joining surfaces of the plywood with two layers of poly resin then bonded them together with poly resin and one layer of 1.5oz CSM.
Next the transom was shaped/contoured to allow for a perfect fit and easy filleting and tabbing.
Then all of the exterior of the transom piece was sealed with two coats of poly resin.
It is now ready to be bonded to the hull.

Layers of the transom

Here is my transom bonding plan:
1. Put one layer of 1.5oz CSM on the inner hull
2. Peanut butter Poly resin on transom plywood piece
3. Fill and fillet
4. After fully cured, tab with CSM
5. Cover complete transom with CSM
6. Tab again with 1708
5. Cover complete transom with two layers of 1708

Does my plan sound about right or it is it overkill?

Layers planned for transom layup