Removing outdrive

nemo2011

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 15, 2011
Messages
157
Hello!
I have to completly remove my Mercruiser Alpha one out drive from my boat. So far I have removed the leg and motor,is there any advice on removing the gimball housing or rather is there a fairly simple way to do this.I have never removed this part before so would appreciate any advice!
I do have power steering on this boat.
 

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,078
Re: Removing outdrive

Ayuh,... You have to remove the 6, or 8 nuts from the thru-studs, 'n seperate the inner plate out, then push off the outer...
Up to Alpha 1, Gen.II is 6 nuts, Gen.II has 8...
 

Fishermark

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Oct 19, 2003
Messages
5,617
Re: Removing outdrive

Actually, including the bottom special aluminum bolts, there are eight fasteners to remove on a Gen I or earlier model. (The ones at the top, labeled #5 and #7 are easy to miss). Here's a diagram:

innertransomplate.jpg
 

Alpheus

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Aug 3, 2009
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Re: Removing outdrive

Dont forget to remove your exhaust pipe also. It takes a 3/8 12 point socket. You will never get the bottom nuts off if you dont...
 

nemo2011

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Feb 15, 2011
Messages
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Re: Removing outdrive

Thank you all for your responses! I began loosening bolts to-day from the inside, all went well except the pin that connects steering lever to hydraulic ram clevis is really stuck!! and I mean "will not move"I put some WD 40 on and will let that sit overnight and try again tomorrow.
anyone encounter this before?
 

Fishermark

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Re: Removing outdrive

I put some WD 40 on and will let that sit overnight

WD40 is good for some things - but as a penetrating oil, not so much. Get some PB Blaster or something similar.


anyone encounter this before?

Welcome to the world of boating! In our neck of the woods, boating exclusively in salt water I am surprised when things AREN'T stuck or corroded up. ;) Be sure to use some grease when putting back together.
 

nemo2011

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Feb 15, 2011
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Re: Removing outdrive

WD40 is good for some things - but as a penetrating oil, not so much. Get some PB Blaster or something similar.

Welcome to the world of boating! In our neck of the woods, boating exclusively in salt water I am surprised when things AREN'T stuck or corroded up. ;) Be sure to use some grease when putting back together.


thanks I will pick some up tomorrow!
this is a great forum!!!!Have learned soooo much here!
 

rickryder

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Jun 24, 2010
Messages
2,722
Re: Removing outdrive

Get yourself a tube of Never Seez? Mariners Choice Anti-Seize
Never-Seez? Mariner's Choice is a heavy duty anti-seize and extreme pressure lubricant formulated to assure absolute parts protection against seizure, galling and corrosion in fresh and salt water environments.

Mariner's Choice offers unparalleled resistance to water washout and the best protection in continuous high moisture environments both above and below water lines.
 

Alpheus

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Re: Removing outdrive

The best penetrating oil you will ever own is homemade. Mix up a batch using a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Shake it well in a spray bottle and your all set. This stuff works miracles...
 

Alpheus

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Re: Removing outdrive

Get yourself a tube of Never Seez? Mariners Choice Anti-Seize
Never-Seez? Mariner's Choice is a heavy duty anti-seize and extreme pressure lubricant formulated to assure absolute parts protection against seizure, galling and corrosion in fresh and salt water environments.

Mariner's Choice offers unparalleled resistance to water washout and the best protection in continuous high moisture environments both above and below water lines.

Anti-Seize of any kind has no business on a boat. If it contains graphite it will corrode aluminum parts very quickly. Use marine grease and thats about it. You shouldn't even use the stuff on your spark plugs...
 

rickryder

Commander
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Jun 24, 2010
Messages
2,722
Re: Removing outdrive

Then why is it MARINE grade?

Suggested applications: Bilge piping, screw shafts, prop shaft bearing housings, winches, cables, and anchor lines, porthole studs, rigging and hoist cables, steel mills, suspension bridges, wind turbines, offshore rigging and other applications that are exposed to harsh salt water and fresh water conditions

Here is a link to the tech data sheet http://www.neverseezproducts.com/msds/NSMarineGrade.pdf

Its copper and aluminum not graphite
 

nemo2011

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Messages
157
Re: Removing outdrive

Great info guys I like the acetone and ATF mixture what the "H"got both on hand so why not try.If that don't work will go to PB blaster! and if that don't work looks like some good ole heat!!
 

nemo2011

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 15, 2011
Messages
157
Re: Removing outdrive

WD40 is good for some things - but as a penetrating oil, not so much. Get some PB Blaster or something similar.

Thanks for that! I got some to-day (PB Blaster) and it worked like a charm pin came out easily after 2 or three minutes.

I picked up a new seawater pump kit to-day!and hope to have that done in the next couple of days.
While I have the motor and leg and bell housing of is there anything else that should be done while it is apart?
so far I have
1- repaired aluminum gas tank
2- ordered new exhaust manifolds and risers
3- installed a new front water pump
4- rebuilt carberator(new kit)
5- bought and will install seawater pickup pump(kit)
6- installing 2 new bilge vents

would appreciate views from you folks that have gone through this before!
 

artificialreef

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Feb 21, 2009
Messages
504
Re: Removing outdrive

Does anyone see a problem with that acetone atf, pb blaster, then heat combo?
 

Fishermark

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Oct 19, 2003
Messages
5,617
Re: Removing outdrive

is there anything else that should be done while it is apart?

Replace your drive bellows and shift cable. I am a big believer in aftermarket parts... but I would have to agree with the usual suggestion to buy the Quciksilver brand shift cable. Buy the complete cable kit with bellows, etc.

Check your gimbal bearing and replace if there is any doubt.

If you like having a trim gauge and trim limit, then now is the time to check / replace the sneder and switch.
 

nemo2011

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Messages
157
Re: Removing outdrive

Replace your drive bellows and shift cable. I am a big believer in aftermarket parts... but I would have to agree with the usual suggestion to buy the Quciksilver brand shift cable. Buy the complete cable kit with bellows, etc.

Check your gimbal bearing and replace if there is any doubt.

If you like having a trim gauge and trim limit, then now is the time to check / replace the sneder and switch.

My shift cable was repaced last year so it should be good I will have a serios look at the gimball bearing when I get it of the transom. The anode bolt on the strbd side is giving me grief.corroded in the 2" wood part and I am assuming in the outside housing. the inner plate came off no problem.

what's the best way to clean up the exhaust ports on the motor in preparation for installing new exhaust manifolds.
 

nemo2011

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Messages
157
Re: Removing outdrive

So I began installing the new seawater pickup pump kit, had a bit of a go splitting the upper and lower but with persuasion it eventually came.
I did nptice that at the top of the drive shaft there is quite a bit of play I would say it moves approx 3/16"in all directions and when I rotate the shaft it semms bumpy?? what are tolerances on the drive shaft and is it much of a job too change the bearing?:D
 

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Alpheus

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Aug 3, 2009
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Re: Removing outdrive

The upper case holds the shaft so their is no play. Everyone I have ever taken apart has the same amount of play...
 
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