Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

[Woodbinekeith]

My helm has a large round drum - about 8" - that is very flat and held together with four bolts with 1/2" nuts. The cable comes in at the top/starboard side and just above one of these bolts. The other three bolts are close to where the steering wheel extension comes through the drum. A mechanic says not to take the drum apart and loosening the bolt by the cable does nothing. Question: how does one remove the cable from the helm? Teleflex advertises a "quick connect" but I can't see any instruction as to how it works. The web site also talks of earlier models being "threaded". I can't see anything to lock onto in order to turn something that is threaded. There doesn't seem to be a pin release of any kind either. Help

 

[seabob4]

Re: Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

Kieth,
Can you get a pic of this helm? How old would you say it is?

There are 2 methods of cable retention on the newer helms. One is the cotter pin method (Quick-connect), and the other is where there is a 1/4-20 bolt on either side of the cable entrance neck...

 

[Reel Kahuna]

Re: Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

Where the cable is inserted in the "rotary" drum there's a cotter pin. Pull that pin out and turn the steering wheel either clock or counter-clock wise which should feed the cable out.

 

[Woodbinekeith]

Re: Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

The boat is a 1977 Larson (Glasspar) Manta 175. I have no way of knowing if this is the original helm. No sign of a cotter pin or a nut so it is possible that this is an "integrated" unit that apparently was used at one time and the entire unit may have to be replaced. Not really wanting to go there but .... Your suggestions are appreciated.

 

[seabob4]

Re: Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

Kieth,
A pic! I know Jim Corday, Teleflex's main cable steering guy, he can help...

 

[Jeep Man]

Re: Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

Mine is a teleflex and the "cotter pin" is merely a key (which can easily be misplaced). The instruction is to remove the pin from the holder and push it into the small hole near where the cable meets the housing (anything that fits the hole will work). While pushing the pin in, pull the cable from the housing. Then turn the steering wheel to unwind the cable from the housing.

 

[Woodbinekeith]

Re: Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

Thanks Jeep Man - will try it out this a.m. I have some pics in my camera, Seabob, but not techy enough to get them up - still working on it.

 

[seabob4]

Re: Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

Kieth,
If you want, you can email them to me and I'll post them...and not in the dinky little thumbnails either...
seabob4@tampabay.rr.com

 

[Woodbinekeith]

Re: Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

Success. After reflecting on your comments and sizing the situation up, I decided to bite the bullet and remove the rotary drum (under the dash) from its mounting. The four bolts are simply there to mount the drum and have no effect in keeping the drum together (as I thought they might). No gear oil and nothing else had to be done as the drum slid down easily and all the wiring is above it. The unit is a Quicksilver Ride and Glide rotary rack and pinion ring system - part #194503. Quicksilver sounds like a Merc.

Between the drum and the wheel side is a toothed cog that is part of the drum. It slips into a housing under the dash that is part of the steering wheel component. Nothing here had to be taken down as the drum just lifted up a bit (the gear) and out. Replacing looks like a cynch provided I don't have to change out the entire wheel assembly. The frame at the top where the cable head comes in seems that it will open up with a little persuading. Thus the reason for the 4th bolt at the top - just to ensure the cable went nowhere. At the cable head, there is no nut to turn, no cotter pin to pull, nor is there a hole to put in a "key" and detach the cable from the head (quick connect). The side wall of the boat is quite open so it was a piece of take to work the cable up to the front and out. Off to a local boat shop that I have dealt with before to see where we go from here. Hopefully it will only be a replacement cable as the head looks/operates very well. Thanks for the comments and suggestions.

 

[Woodbinekeith]

Re: Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

The bad news. Took the helm to a boat shop and because it is obsolete, there are no parts available. Had to order the helm as well as a wheel so it comes in at just under $300. The good news is that it will be a new teleflex system and won't have to be changed out any time soon. The next step was to remove the helm. The hub of the steering wheel is held in place by a fine piece of wire acting as a split ring retainer - removed it with a pick - to get at the nut holding the wheel on. On the underside of the dash were three bolts holding the receptor gear for the steering wheel so took these off - after being on so long - not easy. On the bottom side of housing nearest the top side of the dash is a hole with a screw requiring an allen wrench. Once loosened, the housing on the front of the dash pulled out and the gear mechanism fell away under the dash. What is left, I hope, is a standard sized hole for the new unit. Hope all of this helps someone else down the road.

 

[Woodbinekeith]

Re: Removing Steering Cable from the Helm?

The new teleflex helm with single detachable cable went in without much drilling (bolt holes were in a different place) but that was about it. The new wheel is small but does a good job of turning the motor quickly and efficiently. Would recommend this system to anyone thinking about changing out their helm. Mechanically sound and easy to install but be sure to measure the length of cable you need.

I got away without having to lift the motor to install the new cable in the cable tube of the motor. There was a 4" hole for cables in the fiberglass so I sawed out one corner about 1.5 " in diam. - just enough to allow the cable nut to go through to give me a straight run at the cable tube. It would have been a major problem had I needed to lift the 90 hp motor up and over a bit as I don't have a shop crane. A crane is something to think about at $200 on sale for times like this. Next will be to hook up the electrics and then fire it up.