Replace gimbal bearing with bellows?

[TomB985]

Good afternoon everyone.

Our boat will be entering it's sixth season, and I believe that means it's time for a bellows replacement. I'm going to have a shop do the work this time, do you guys think it worth the extra $250 to have them replace the gimbal bearing as well?

Thanks!

 

[Bt Doctur]

the extra $250 to have them replace the gimbal bearing as well?

Well, I`ll do it for $60 if you supply the bearing LOL
No ,way overpriced for such a simple job.

 

[TomB985]

Okay, thanks. They quoted me an hour's labor to do the gimbal bearing. Do the bellows have to come off to replace it if it fails in the future?

I'm relatively handy, I've read enough about bellows to not want to replace them myself. I'm the type that would always be stressing about if they sealed properly, and don't really want to invest in all the tools at the moment.

 

[Bt Doctur]

No, the only thing to come off is the drive.

 

[Bt Doctur]

gimbal bearing is between $59 and $89 list . $180/Hr seems a bit high

 

[TomB985]

Okay, good deal, sounds like a job I'd be happy to do myself if the time comes. They quoted me around $550 for bellows, using OEM parts. Their hourly rate is $125/hr.

 

[stonyloam]

I'm relatively handy, I've read enough about bellows to not want to replace them myself. I'm the type that would always be stressing about if they sealed properly, and don't really want to invest in all the tools at the moment.

You can buy a lot of tools for the $400 you can save by doing it yourself seriously, if you can pull the out drive you can change the bellows yourself. The only tools you need are an alignment tool ($30 eBay) and a bell housing pin removal tool (often included with the alignment tool). You can buy the OEM driveshaft and shift cable bellows and a tube of bellows glue for around $120. On a 6 year old boat there should be no reason to replace the exhaust bellows unless they are torn, since they do not keep water out, they only send the exhaust gasses out to the outdrive (a used one is WAY easier to put back on). With the outdrive off, check the gimbal bearing for smoothness. If it turns PERFECTLY SMOOTH there is no need to replace. Should be a bunch of you tube videos on how to do it. If you take your time, use the adhesive and are careful, there should not be any sealing problem. Worst case if you buy the parts from the dealer and get it apart and feel like you are over your head, take it to the dealer and pay the labor to have them finish it, still should save you some. Just something to consider.
BTW if you have not done it it is time to replace the outdrive waterpump impeller. Another DIY job. Chris has a video in the stickies.

 

[Lou C]

I agree with the above if there has never been water in the bellows the gimble bearing can last 10+ years. As long as it is greased turns smoothly and dry they don't wear out so fast.i have one in there that is 12 years old and still fine. While the bellows should be replaced based on time condition really matters. If you tilt it up and there are no small cracks starting and there is no water in the bellows when you pull the drive it's probably still fine. With an IO boat pulling the drive at the end of each season is the best maintenance you can do....

 

[TomB985]

You can buy a lot of tools for the $400 you can save by doing it yourself seriously, if you can pull the out drive you can change the bellows yourself. The only tools you need are an alignment tool ($30 eBay) and a bell housing pin removal tool (often included with the alignment tool). You can buy the OEM driveshaft and shift cable bellows and a tube of bellows glue for around $120. On a 6 year old boat there should be no reason to replace the exhaust bellows unless they are torn, since they do not keep water out, they only send the exhaust gasses out to the outdrive (a used one is WAY easier to put back on). With the outdrive off, check the gimbal bearing for smoothness. If it turns PERFECTLY SMOOTH there is no need to replace. Should be a bunch of you tube videos on how to do it. If you take your time, use the adhesive and are careful, there should not be any sealing problem. Worst case if you buy the parts from the dealer and get it apart and feel like you are over your head, take it to the dealer and pay the labor to have them finish it, still should save you some. Just something to consider.
BTW if you have not done it it is time to replace the outdrive waterpump impeller. Another DIY job. Chris has a video in the stickies.

Thanks, Terry. I'm pretty decent mechanically, but I have had bad luck in the past with cleaning and sealing joints like this. I don't trust the seal unless it's something I check a few times, and with my luck I'd have a small leak that would wreck my U-joints and gimbal bearing. There aren't many jobs I won't tackle, but this is one I'll feel a lot better having a pro do.

Ended up taking it to another place that I've had good luck with in the past. A bit more of a drive, but $95/hour labor rate and they have a good reputation. He advised me to have them replace the shift cable when they do the bellows, is that worthwhile on a 6-year-old drive? Thinking about holding off and doing that one myself if needed.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my stupid questions everyone!

 

[thumpar]

It was only $65 for bearing installed at a local shop for mine. This was with drive off though. I took the boat over and he just put a new one in a couple minutes. Your shop sounds way overpriced.

 

[TomB985]

It was only $65 for bearing installed at a local shop for mine. This was with drive off though. I took the boat over and he just put a new one in a couple minutes. Your shop sounds way overpriced.

Part of the reason I'm not using that shop...I had originally planned to because they're relatively close, but they really rubbed me the wrong way last time I was there. Charged me $230 to pressure test the drive and find nothing wrong...for me to find the oil leak later last year when I replaced the impeller myself. They also charged me $15 to replace the license plate holder that they lost last time it was there. Big dealer with a big service department, and only 25 miles away.

Ended up taking it to an independent shop that I've used before. 65 miles away, but cheaper on labor and they seem to be an honest shop.

 

[stonyloam]

On the shift cable, the best time to change the cable is when you do your bellows HOWEVER if the cable is working well and in good shape there should be no need to change. I would ask the shop to take a look at it and see what they think. Yeah, I used to worry about stuff like bellows, but found out I could do it all just fine. What I would suggest is do some research and and there are a ton of videos on YouTube that show how to do this stuff ( achris has some good ones). If you don't have one, get the alignment tool and check the alignment EVERY time you remove the outdrive. Good luck.

 

[mxcobra]

bellows are a pain, but at 550 plus 250 on a gimbal bearing, plus tax... I would say you might as well just through your money in the lake... 800 dollars for a days work at the most, and on my experience the dealer will use the cheaper parts too ,probably more like a couple hours for an experienced mechanic I could get rich doing something like that!!!!

 

[TomB985]

This shop will be cheaper, he quoted around 3 hours labor at 95/hour. Called them this morning, and he tells me the shift cable is frozen up. Of course it sat all winter, but if water is in there it really needs to be replaced. Not having them do the gimbal bearing unless there's evidence of a failure, and from what I gather that should be unlikely on an uncontaminated bearing only six years old.

 

[TomB985]

Just got a call from the shop, it's all done. $577 and some change for bellows and a new shift cable. Hoping they used OEM parts, I completely forgot to ask ahead of time.

 

[bspeth]

An absolute steal if its done to your satisfaction.

 

[achris]

.. They quoted me an hour's labor to do the gimbal bearing. ....

An hour!!!! Knock me down with a feather. 4 minutes (ABSOLUTELY maximum) to pull the old one out, and about 5 minutes to knock the new one in... The last 2 boats I did both needed one... Even if the old bearing fights, it's just a a few more knocks with the slide hammer. Here's a tip to make the new bearing easier to get in. Drop it in a deep freeze for a couple of hours beforehand..... The cold shrinks the bearing enough for it to just tap in.... :thumb:

Chris.......

 

[TomB985]

Good to hear it's an easy job, Chris. You guys saved me some money on that one, and the shop I took it to didn't try to upcharge me like that. I've done the impeller three times since buying the boat, but have never removed the drive. I'll start adding that to my annual maintenance routine.

You guys are awesome, I really appreciate all the help!

 

[achris]

Have a look at the videos link at the bottom of my signature. A few in there may be of help to you.

 

[TomB985]

Have a look at the videos link at the bottom of my signature. A few in there may be of help to you.

Those are very helpful, thanks. Do you normally replace the gaskets and O-rings when you pull the drive, or are they reusable?