Replace those plugs on carb rebuild?

[puffer fish]

Hello,

I am about to do my 1st carb rebuild on my 1989 evinrude 48 spl (ve48eslcer)

I have been researching youtube videos and have a few quick questions , I appreciate all and any feedback!

1. Replace those metal plugs or ignore this step?

2. Use gasket sealing compound or ignore this ?

3. Do i really need to soak this overnight or can i spot clean where needed?

4. My Air silencer cover kit also has 2 gaskets... replace these? gasket sealing compound these?

Thanks in advance!!!

( Impeller / water pump is next project )

 

[harringtondav]

The plugs seal cross drilled passages. If you finish you cleaning using an aerosol cleaner with a straw to blow through all passages, removing the plugs isn't necessary.

I've never used gasket compound, or seen it required in a kit's instructions. Properly tightened, gaskets do their job.

Overnight soaking in an immersion is critical, and the key to getting those cross drilled passages clean. I follow with a very hot water wash with TSP, blow out with the aerosol, and followed with a compressed air blow out. All passages.

 

[racerone]

If carburetors are clean there is likely no need to do this extra work.-----Not sure but many carburetors are " rebuilt " and the next post says " still runs the same "----Do your trouble shooting first.

 

[puffer fish]

Overnight soaking in an immersion is critical.

Do you recommend i buy gallon of carburetor parts cleaner or do i use acetone/some kind of alcohol product?

Thanks for the knowledge and fast responses guys! I really appreciate it...

 

[harringtondav]

A gallon of immersion parts/carb cleaner.

 

[Tim Frank]

1. Replace those metal plugs or ignore this step?

You are removing them to clean any debris from the space behind. If you do ignore this step you may get away with it, but it is so easy with the carb on the bench that I never risk having to R&R the carb because I got caught. My experience...yours may differ, is that about 1 in 6 rebuilds i find something behind the Welch plugs that had to be removed. The other 5 I have wasted 10 minutes, but the hour + I saved on the one, by not having to redo the whole job makes it worthwhile.

2. Use gasket sealing compound or ignore this ?

Gasket sealer where? Most gaskets do not need sealer unless you are trying to save a buck and reuse the old one.

3. Do i really need to soak this overnight or can I spot clean where needed?

Once you get the carb apart you can pretty much tell how badly it needs cleaning and how extensively. In Canada I find varnish deposits few and far between....more southern locations it is a bigger deal.
Soaking overnight is a pretty easy way to go.

4. My Air silencer cover kit also has 2 gaskets... replace these? gasket sealing compound these?

IMO these are not a 100% air-tight critical seal. I would either reuse as-is or replace. Gasket sealer will be a PITA next time you remove, gasket tears, you need to replace, and you are scraping for 1/2 hour.

 

[puffer fish]

You are removing them to clean any debris from the space behind. If you do ignore this step you may get away with it, but it is so easy with the carb on the bench that I never risk having to R&R the carb because I got caught. My experience...yours may differ, is that about 1 in 6 rebuilds i find something behind the Welch plugs that had to be removed. The other 5 I have wasted 10 minutes, but the hour + I saved on the one, by not having to redo the whole job makes it worthwhile.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge i really appreciate it!

Backstory on engine: Boat lives in stuart, florida. I have owned the boat 2 years - no maintenance yet so its overdue - have been putting some Seafoam in the mixture as my only maintenance thus far. Last 6 gallon fill had no seafoam. Last trip on the boat at Wide Open Throttle it did not want to accelerate at first ... I was scared for about 15-20 seconds and then mustve burned off a glob of junk and went WOT np. Then it wanted to stall out when i dropped back to idle. Upon restart from stall... it stalled going into gear 2-3 times until i could punch it. Impeller is next project after this

 

[puffer fish]

I pulled everything apart finally... part of my fathers day present is for my wife to let me work on the boat while she watches both kids lol ....

The boat must have been serviced right before i bought it because it is super clean so far everything i see, i almost dont even want to replace the float and gaskets they look brand new, but i want to learn my engine

I am going to spray it clean with carb cleaner and slap it back together tomorrow, need to acquire the guitar string/poker tool

I will be bypassing the "special tool" part as my flatheads are missing the mark... and spray my way through this step.

Leaning toward the Carbs not being my issue, I am going to try to drain one of my gas tanks and check my fuel lines...

The boat does not and never had a water/fuel separator and that always concerned me, so i will be adding that also

... probably change out the spark plugs also tomorrow

Thanks again everyone for your help!

 

[F_R]

Yet another example of somebody jumping to conclusion that it must be the carbs. I say that most carburetor problems----are not. But the new spark plugs just might fix it.

 

[puffer fish]

lol yep... at least i am learning my engine =)

I cleaned everything good except the one jet i don't have the tool for, but it visually looks clear and I sprayed carb cleaner through everything easily

The intake / air silencer cover thingy was not on tight, and had a gap at the bottom end, so after cleaning the carb I made sure it went back on good

At the base is a hose that runs back toward the engine, that was slightly loose, i redid those with tie straps.

The spark plugs were not QL78YC... and the gap looks way too big... and covered in orange rust.

So I didnt buy a gap measurement tool because i have 1 somewhere... i think... I am hoping the QL78YC is .030 from factory I am going to try and eyeball it based off a dime being .053

Also I drained one of my gas tanks and I am going to get a fresh mixture in the morning and fire it up

Thanks!

 

[F_R]

Whoa! Orange rust??? That's a terrible thing to find.

 

[Vic.S]

lol yep... at least i am learning my engine =)

I cleaned everything good except the one jet i don't have the tool for, but it visually looks clear and I sprayed carb cleaner through everything easily

The intake / air silencer cover thingy was not on tight, and had a gap at the bottom end, so after cleaning the carb I made sure it went back on good

At the base is a hose that runs back toward the engine, that was slightly loose, i redid those with tie straps.

The spark plugs were not QL78YC... and the gap looks way too big... and covered in orange rust.

So I didnt buy a gap measurement tool because i have 1 somewhere... i think... I am hoping the QL78YC is .030 from factory I am going to try and eyeball it based off a dime being .053

Also I drained one of my gas tanks and I am going to get a fresh mixture in the morning and fire it up

Thanks!

I dont think you can assume that. Find your gauge , buy a new one, borrow one or steal one

 

[racerone]

Plug gap is not that critical as motor will run with them at anywhere from 0.030" to 0.050"

 

[puffer fish]

Yeah the old spark plugs look horrible I never checked them until now.

Based off eyeball measurement of the ql78yc its .030 ... raining this morning but will try to mix the fuel shortly

 

[puffer fish]

Attempting to start it... starter is getting stuck in flywheel .. flywheel seems "stuck"?... the numbers are on the other side of the arrow that points at the flywheel

 

[puffer fish]

I believe I should be able to turn the flywheel by hand freely? is that correct, because i cannot

 

[racerone]

Correct---flywheel can be turned by hand on a good motor.----Up to you to determine if gearcase or motor is the issue.----And the RUSTY plugs are a bad omen.----Often folks will ignore advice on how bad water inside an engine is and how quickly that locks up a motor.

 

[puffer fish]

So I ended up bringing the motor back to life...forcing the flywheel each direction slowly until it was freed up.... then after some start attempts it moved freely and started up!

Its alive for now im not going to let it sit very long and plan a trial run to burn off some gas/seafoam this week