Replace timing cover without dropping pan?

[jumpjets]

Engine: ATK 383 crate motor with merc MAG MPI 6.2L top end.

I’m 80% sure my oil leak is coming from the front main seal or the timing cover. Is it possible to replace the plastic MPI timing cover without dropping the oil pan? (And removing the engine in the process...).

I have enough room to swap the timing cover in the boat, but I don’t want to trade 1 leak for another.

 

[Scott Danforth]

not really.

pull drive
pull motor
swap leaky plastic front cover for a billet aluminum one
re-install motor
align
re-install drive

 

[jumpjets]

Ah. Can’t really cheap out on this one.
I suppose I’ll install a milidon pan with a windage tray while it’s out.

what is this billet aluminum front cover you speak of?

 

[Scott Danforth]

here is a cast one

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-21-152/applications

here is the billet one https://tpis.com/products/7_cvr050?variant=28342577725512

 

[jumpjets]

Ok. The Holley piece looks good I suppose. I was hoping that I could find a 2 piece cover like race car guys use for quick cam changes, but with a crank sensor. That probably doesn’t exist.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ok. The Holley piece looks good I suppose. I was hoping that I could find a 2 piece cover like race car guys use for quick cam changes, but with a crank sensor. That probably doesn’t exist.

it does, go on summit's site

 

[Scott06]

not really.

pull drive
pull motor
swap leaky plastic front cover for a billet aluminum one
re-install motor
align
re-install drive

he is steering you straight here. It’s not that much work to yank the engine. Plus you can run it on the ground to verify no leaks once you seal it all back up.

 

[chs marine service]

i have done it, you'll need an air ratchet or electric ratchet, like the one milwaukee sells, you need to remove 90% of the bolts holding the pan to the block. the pan will hang low enough to replace the timing cover. you can leave the last 2 bolts on each side of the pan.because the pan gasket is 1 piece, you'll never get it in placeand sealled correctly without dropping the pan.

one more thing use permatex ultra grey sealant where the cover meets the pan/block and all the way around the cover. let it dry overnight . you;ll be sure to have a good seal.

i went through this and changed 3 covers before using the permatex

 

[kvkon]

i have done it, you'll need an air ratchet or electric ratchet, like the one milwaukee sells, you need to remove 90% of the bolts holding the pan to the block. the pan will hang low enough to replace the timing cover. you can leave the last 2 bolts on each side of the pan.because the pan gasket is 1 piece, you'll never get it in placeand sealled correctly without dropping the pan.

one more thing use permatex ultra grey sealant where the cover meets the pan/block and all the way around the cover. let it dry overnight . you;ll be sure to have a good seal.

i went through this and changed 3 covers before using the permatex

Just getting ready to reassemble my 4.3 vortec. When you say dry over night I assume you mean cover is installed but engine isn't filled with oil? Do you also use the Permatex on the oil pan seal surface and around the rear main seal area? Is the Permatex also suitable for the intake manifold gasket corners and the ends of the block under the intake? Can it be used for the cylinder head bolts also? Sorry about all the questions!