replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

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Ciera2450

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225d hooked up to a 280. Ordering both bellows and ujoint. any other stuff I should do while i'm going this far? Looking at perhaps replacing the reverse latch hardware while i'm at it. It doesn't lock down properly.
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Why are you changing the u-joints?Water damage/salt water?
Is the release mechanisim working right.Take the lock apart and post pics of the lock hooks.
They should be squared off no rounding.Replace the springs anyway.Sometimes they are missing one.
Water in the drive?How bad is the front yoke(rust) on the u-joint(where it comes through the drive).
Lots of water in the drive shaft area? Any side to side play of the shaft?Any noise/grinding rumbling(hope not).Inside the motor compartment at the back of the bell housing should be a grease fitting.This is the grease passage to the 2 bearings on the drivew shaft. Not the steering arm. Might be just a screw head(bad). Check this stuff and get back with the answers.J
 

PiratePast40

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Get a pressure/vacuum test rig and test the outdrive before you pull the gearbox. That's the only way to tell if you'll be needing additional seals. And, of course, you need the o-rings for every time you pull the upper. Get a few extra dip stick and drain plug o-rings while you're at it. If prior maintenance is unknown, might as well replace the water neck fitting and hose while you've got it apart. Latch pawls are pretty spendy. Might want to spend some time with a wire wheel cleaning things up before you decide what you need to replace but yes, might as well get a spring kit and replace the washers and locknuts if you're going to tear it apart.

There's quite a bit written about the latch mechanism so you'll want to get familiar with that. Many things can contribute to inoperability. Can't confirm, but think it was designed by the same sadists that designed the early Lucas lighting systems!
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Thanks a lot for the replies guys.
The boat is new to me and past history is unknown. Outdrive has corrosion that appears to be from salt water....so i'm assuming the ujoint is toast. The bellows are seeping water and don't appear in to great of shape.
Thanks for the tips on the washers and o-rings...thats the kinda crap I always forget and have to wait for some stupid little part!
I'm sure I'll have more questions when I get things apart. So i'll appreciate all the advice you guys have...
I'd like to replace PDS bearings but that will wait until winter when I will pull the motor.
Outdrive seems to function OK...i've had her out a few times. I do notice a very slight "shudder" when turning very hard either way at WOT...
and of course the notorious reverse kick up! It has never stayed down. The pawls appear rounded to me compared to pics i've seen of new ones but i'll post pics of them.
thanks again!
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

BTW...I changed oil in drive earlier this year...it had gear oil in it but NO water. I replaced with 10w30.
I did grease the bearing zirk on the flywheel cover at that time also.
 

Don S

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

I'd like to replace PDS bearings but that will wait until winter when I will pull the motor.

If those bearings are noisy, I would strongly suggest you replace them now. If it comes a part and locks up you could destroy the housing, and you probably don't want to have to buy a new one.
You are planning on only pulling the upper gear box to replace the bellows and ujoints, and not pulling the complete drive aren't you?
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

I'm not sure if it is the bearings making the noise. It sounds smooth going straight and turning slightly...crank a real hard turn and I feel a little shudder or shimmy in the drive , only occurs at or near WOT...doesn't make noise really more of just a "feel", Perhaps a slight humming/vibration type noise.
I actually had planned to remove the drive. First time doing this and thought I had to. THANKS!

I plan in the winter to pull the motor to paint bilge and replace PDS bearings. I also am missing one of the water hoses (j hook?) on the drive which I'm told I have to remove the motor to replace so I'll fix that also. I'd like to sand down and paint the drive and transom housing also. She's been in salt but i'm in fresh water now. So much to do.
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

shopping online now for parts...Part #875-192 is a rebuild gasket/seal kit. Will this contain all the necessary orings and such?
 

Don S

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Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Great links Don S Thanks!
Nothing like step by step directions with part numbers!
Been searching for pdf drive service manual! I had the owners manual but service manual is much better. thanks for that
Will that engine service manual apply to my 225d?
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Looks like I don't need that whole rebuild kit. (i hope)
Would the ujoint cause the "shudder" in the drive I described?
I've been reading a lot about it on here and the ujoint keeps coming up as a cause for vibration when turning at speed.
I didn't come across that post you linked when i searched for info....Thanks again.
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Thanks again Don S.
I can replace the exhaust bellows also without removing the drive?
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Thanks for all the help guys! I'm ordering both of the bellows and the orings/gaskets needed. I'll inspect the ujoint and replace if needed. I'll post some pics when I receive the parts.
Thanks again, you guys are great!
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Took the family out to the lake last night and today....had to "test" the boat a little more to ensure I was replacing proper parts. =)
I have new ujoint and set of bellows ordered. Should receive them midweek. I'll keep ya posted.
Hope everyone had a happy Easter!
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

I've got a couple inches of side to side "play" in the drive when i move it by hand...the steering helmet appears to "wiggle" too much, the two large flat head screws on either side of the transom housing, is there a bushing or something there?
I'm tearing things apart and may as well fix it all. I've read other posts and some folks say its no big deal but I can't imagine that is correct advice.
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Sorry for delays guys! Been beautiful out here and couldn't resist taking the boat out before I tear into her!
I'm beginning outdrive work this weekend.
I've posted some pics of the bushing areas i'm concerned with......
The mounts on either side of the drive have a good bit of play in them..
Also, the very top bushing on the outdrive and the steering helmet part where the two bolts are wiggles a bit more than I think it should(but I don't know), if you notice in the picture the top bushing looks like bacon! Surely thats not correct
Any advice?
I have both bellows but would like to repair it all while i'm at it.


steering helmet.jpgtop of outdrive.jpgoutdrive mount.jpg
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

It appears I have the wrong transom shield. A mechanic on another forum informed me that I have a single exhaust relief shield. Would this cause the "slop" in the drive? anyone seen this "modification" before?
I have NO overheat issues or leaks from exhaust system after replacing man/riser gaskets and drain valves on manifolds. I've run the boat several times and everything appears functionally sound.
I hit 37mpg Gps last time out. Thought that was good for the ol' gal!

This whole engine/drive system has been pieced together. Dunno what I was thinking when I purchased it. AHHHHHHHHH!
Wrong carb, wrong distributor cap, merc mans/risers, merc thermostat housing, etc, etc,
I'm amazed it all functions.
 
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