Hey all. I’ve already ordered a ton of money in upholstery supplies and a sewing machine (giving it a try myself) when I decided to cut my floor out because I thought I had soft spots. Turned out the floor was solid as can be. I was just feeling seams when I thought I had soft spots. The only rot I found was at the very bottoms of the bulkheads, starting from the drain holes. Clearly, it was caused by messy drain holes, blocked by webs of fiberglass that acted like a filter trapping water with debris, especially in the ski locker. Looks like I got lucky, the rot is down low and in the middle, doesn’t appear to have made it up to the stringers. Pulling the fuel tank tomorrow, that’s my only uncertainty still. I’ve never done this before and I have lots of questions, I’ll stick to a few to start. Have a couple ideas that may be crazy and stupid. I don’t want to halfass anything but with the work load ahead of me before boating season, I’ll take any time saver I can get.
Question 1- If I’m replacing bulkheads only and not stringers, do I need to support the hull before I cut them out. If so where and how should it be supported? (At the stringers or top of the boat?) Can I do it on the trailer or should it be in a cradle to support the hull?


Should I do one at a time, allowing the resin to fully cure before cutting the next one out? (The two bulkheads I would be replacing are the ones forward and aft of the fuel tank in the picture)
Question 2- looking under the bow cap there are two little bulkheads and both have rot on the very bottoms. Also, the windshield is a little tight to close. I really can’t get into such a big project as to take the top of the boat off to get to these... which leads me to my first maybe crazy and stupid idea. I was thinking to leave those as they are and add a bulkhead or two where the ski locker used to be for added support. Would this extra support be enough to safely get by for another 10 years as those two little bulkheads in the bow continue to rot? Also, was wondering if all the rotting bulkheads are the cause for the tightness closing the windshield and if bracing it apart while installing the new bulkheads would correct that?
Question 3- (probably crazy and stupid) Can I leave the old tabbing from the old floor? When I cut the floor out, I was able to cut only into the tabbing on the very edge of the boards. I pulled every board out intact and can use them as templates. Was wondering if I can stuff pb under the original tabbing (there’s even dry strands of fiberglass in the gap to grab on to that was never fully wetted with resin) then tab some more over the original tabbing? See pics
thanks in advance. Any and all advice is much appreciated.
Question 1- If I’m replacing bulkheads only and not stringers, do I need to support the hull before I cut them out. If so where and how should it be supported? (At the stringers or top of the boat?) Can I do it on the trailer or should it be in a cradle to support the hull?




Question 2- looking under the bow cap there are two little bulkheads and both have rot on the very bottoms. Also, the windshield is a little tight to close. I really can’t get into such a big project as to take the top of the boat off to get to these... which leads me to my first maybe crazy and stupid idea. I was thinking to leave those as they are and add a bulkhead or two where the ski locker used to be for added support. Would this extra support be enough to safely get by for another 10 years as those two little bulkheads in the bow continue to rot? Also, was wondering if all the rotting bulkheads are the cause for the tightness closing the windshield and if bracing it apart while installing the new bulkheads would correct that?
Question 3- (probably crazy and stupid) Can I leave the old tabbing from the old floor? When I cut the floor out, I was able to cut only into the tabbing on the very edge of the boards. I pulled every board out intact and can use them as templates. Was wondering if I can stuff pb under the original tabbing (there’s even dry strands of fiberglass in the gap to grab on to that was never fully wetted with resin) then tab some more over the original tabbing? See pics
thanks in advance. Any and all advice is much appreciated.