Replacing bulkheads and deck on 85 Chris craft

Iceguy1

Cadet
Joined
Mar 13, 2016
Messages
18
Hey all. I’ve already ordered a ton of money in upholstery supplies and a sewing machine (giving it a try myself) when I decided to cut my floor out because I thought I had soft spots. Turned out the floor was solid as can be. I was just feeling seams when I thought I had soft spots. The only rot I found was at the very bottoms of the bulkheads, starting from the drain holes. Clearly, it was caused by messy drain holes, blocked by webs of fiberglass that acted like a filter trapping water with debris, especially in the ski locker. Looks like I got lucky, the rot is down low and in the middle, doesn’t appear to have made it up to the stringers. Pulling the fuel tank tomorrow, that’s my only uncertainty still. I’ve never done this before and I have lots of questions, I’ll stick to a few to start. Have a couple ideas that may be crazy and stupid. I don’t want to halfass anything but with the work load ahead of me before boating season, I’ll take any time saver I can get.

Question 1- If I’m replacing bulkheads only and not stringers, do I need to support the hull before I cut them out. If so where and how should it be supported? (At the stringers or top of the boat?) Can I do it on the trailer or should it be in a cradle to support the hull? 8EED09D9-B13D-4EC4-95B8-2D9CD89356CD.jpeg37CC022F-8F5F-48ED-9808-4243A6F1D5AD.jpeg175369CC-A055-46A3-8969-68C99E8BE097.jpegA54BFF89-7C9D-41AD-8AE3-62A1DA0992DC.jpegShould I do one at a time, allowing the resin to fully cure before cutting the next one out? (The two bulkheads I would be replacing are the ones forward and aft of the fuel tank in the picture)

Question 2- looking under the bow cap there are two little bulkheads and both have rot on the very bottoms. Also, the windshield is a little tight to close. I really can’t get into such a big project as to take the top of the boat off to get to these... which leads me to my first maybe crazy and stupid idea. I was thinking to leave those as they are and add a bulkhead or two where the ski locker used to be for added support. Would this extra support be enough to safely get by for another 10 years as those two little bulkheads in the bow continue to rot? Also, was wondering if all the rotting bulkheads are the cause for the tightness closing the windshield and if bracing it apart while installing the new bulkheads would correct that?

Question 3- (probably crazy and stupid) Can I leave the old tabbing from the old floor? When I cut the floor out, I was able to cut only into the tabbing on the very edge of the boards. I pulled every board out intact and can use them as templates. Was wondering if I can stuff pb under the original tabbing (there’s even dry strands of fiberglass in the gap to grab on to that was never fully wetted with resin) then tab some more over the original tabbing? See pics

thanks in advance. Any and all advice is much appreciated.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,282
1-yes
2-no
3-no

and you need to pull the motor and drive

do it right or do it over like my grandfather said.

your in a full gut-n-restore project.

step 1 is denial.
 

Iceguy1

Cadet
Joined
Mar 13, 2016
Messages
18
1-yes
2-no
3-no

and you need to pull the motor and drive

do it right or do it over like my grandfather said.

your in a full gut-n-restore project.

step 1 is denial.
Yes sir... you are absolutely right... DENIAL

Got the gas tank out. Started tapping around with a hammer and looking around the boat more thoroughly. Stringers are pretty solid, but definitely have rot lower in the transom, which I’m sure would have made it to the back end of the stringers.

Well I’m past step 1 (denial)

On to step 2... gut-n-restore. I know of a good fiberglass shop in my area. I’m curious of what they would charge and how soon they can get it done. Otherwise if it’s too much, I guess I’ll be missing a boating season and have quite the project. It is definitely worth restoring. Love this boat and it has to last me until I can afford the modern Chris Craft I dream of.

Thanks for pointing out my ignorance on this matter. Really. You were absolutely right. I guess people like me, in denial about their rotten boat, are a dime a dozen for you guys lol
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,282
You can tap all you want, doesnt mean a thing until the wet abd rotting wood has been eaten by insects and leaves a void

Only way to tell. Drill into the stringers and transom. If the shavings come out dry and light colored and smell like fresh cut wood, you are good

If the shavings come out dark, wet and smell like rotten leaves..... You need to cut it all out

Remember the last thing to rot was the floor
 

Iceguy1

Cadet
Joined
Mar 13, 2016
Messages
18
You can tap all you want, doesnt mean a thing until the wet abd rotting wood has been eaten by insects and leaves a void

Only way to tell. Drill into the stringers and transom. If the shavings come out dry and light colored and smell like fresh cut wood, you are good

If the shavings come out dark, wet and smell like rotten leaves..... You need to cut it all out

Remember the last thing to rot was the floor
You can tap all you want, doesnt mean a thing until the wet abd rotting wood has been eaten by insects and leaves a void

Only way to tell. Drill into the stringers and transom. If the shavings come out dry and light colored and smell like fresh cut wood, you are good

If the shavings come out dark, wet and smell like rotten leaves..... You need to cut it all out

Remember the last thing to rot was the floor
Haha. Thats quite an optimistic turn from your first response. Still, I’m no longer in denial. I will drill into the transom tonight, but I really do think you were right about gutting the whole thing. May as well if I’m building a cradle and separating the cap from the hull. Also am not expecting any quotes to have it done to be affordable. Already accepting that I’ll be taking it on myself. Have a lot of research to do and may post some questions along the way, trying not to pester you and others too much.

I’ll do some drilling tonight. Thanks for all the help
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,282
Pester us all you want, we are here to help If you have questions, many have been answered in the stickies.
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,323
Look in my thread - "1987 Powerplay" - I'm 4+ months in on my restoration - first time just like you. Learning as I go. I've got pics of where I drilled my transom and what the wood shavings looked like. Buckle up and prepare to spend a lot of time breathing through a respirator and itching over the next few months!
 
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