Replacing deck - please check my procedures

[jeff.m]

Alright, so I've been looking around this forum as well as a few others and I think I've got a pretty good idea what I need to do, but I'd like to make sure I've got the sequence of events down right first. I only want to have to do this one time <br /><br />Description of events so far:<br /><br />First the boat is a 1976 Glastron T-166. It's the exact boat pictured here. It's almost 30 years old now The floor got soft and I don't want to part with this boat. So this past weekend a friend and I tore out the floor, which was actually fairly easy since the wood was so rotted. The hard part was cleaning out all the debris to make sure it would drain properly after the floor is replaced. We ended up removing the gas tank b/c debris was getting caught in front of the rear drain and it was the only way we could reach the place that needed to be cleared. The area we're replacing is about 5'x8'. So, it's all cleaned up now and it needs to be restored.<br /><br /><br />Now the questions:<br /><br />1. What are the chance the gas tank is still good? It wasn't exposed to the elements at all. It looks perfect from the outside, but I'm concerned about it's inside. I believe the tank is aluminum, but it's had the gas/oil mixture sitting in it unmoved for about 5 years. Would this have comprimised the tank somehow? And if so, where would I find a suitable replacement?<br /><br />2. I know from reading old posts that I should be using marine grade plywood. Where is a good place to get some? I'm in the Dallas area if anyone knows lumber yards around here. Also, is there a minimum thickness I should use? The old plywood I pulled out appeared to be 1/2" but everything I've read on this board's old posts say they used 3/4". I'm not sure I could make 3/4" fit under the front deck lip that sticks out a little bit where I need to put the wood.<br /><br />3. As far as prepping the wood....I think I've read that I should put two coats of epoxy resin on the wood before I put it in place. Is that accurate? I think I read that I should mix the resin with some sort of thickener. Is that right? And I thought I saw someone say you should put down some fiberglass cloth between layers, too. Is that right or should I wait until the wood gets put in place before I put any fiberglass on it? And, should I still use the epoxy resin when putting the fiberglass cloth on or is there something else I should use? And how many layers of the fiberglass cloth should I put on after the wood is in place in the boat?<br /><br />Sorry for the long post, but I want to only have to do this one time. Any suggestions, would be appreciated. I've been taking pics all along if anyone wants to see them or if it would help you make recommendations. I don't mind reading, so if anyone's got some webpages with walkthrough's or something. Thanks in advance.

 

[jeff.m]

Re: Replacing deck - please check my procedures

to clarify #3. i realize that you have to mix the resin with a activator that makes it harden. i'm talking about some other mixer. someone mentioned talcum powder or sawdust. thanks again.

 

[GaCracker]

Re: Replacing deck - please check my procedures

There is no need to use marine ply for this application. you can almost bet that the boatbuilder didn't.<br /><br />Take the time to look up the APA specifications for marine ply. The only difference in it and good A/C or B/C ply is the gap between the interior plys. 1/8" for marine vs. 1/4" for exterior. The woods the same, the glue is the same. On marine the "A" face will be a little nicer which is a consideration if you are putting it on the hull where fairing is an issue.<br /><br />Also in Texas, the plywood that you get will likely be pine, which is stronger (and stiffer) than fir (which is what marine is made of).<br /><br />There is absolutely no practical reason to use marine ply in the floor of a boat that is to be epoxy encapsulated (coated) and then covered with FG cloth.<br /><br />Marine ply is no more or less rot resistant than exterior and rot is the issue with floors. If you have the extra bucks to spend, spend it on pressure treated ply, which looks like crap, but you will have a floor that will be there from now on.<br /><br />When someone says that you will die and go to Hell if you use exterior, ask them exactly (quantitatively) marine offers over exterior, except a whole lot more money.

 

[reka12]

Re: Replacing deck - please check my procedures

1. The tank can be removed and cleaned. I know from trying to use an old gas tank with gas that set-up it is very difficult to get the scum out without some serious solvent washing.<br />2. Use the same thickness as what came out. I have found marine grade ply at several local lumberyards. Call around.<br />3. I have applied 4 coats, paying special attention to the end cuts. It really soaks up the resin. Don't use additives, you want it thin. The "additives" are for specialized purposes. For instance there are agents for "fairing" which is the final coat that fills in the small blemishes and is easier to sand, "filleting" additives that are used to fill a 90 degree junction between two pieces that will be joined together, and additives for strenghtening a bond (like when used as "glue"). Go to supplier sites like "West Systems", "MAS" or any of the other epoxy manufactures and read up on it. Search these boards, there the best. These guys have been there and can really help. Buy a book or one of the videos, they help a lot too. Good luck. It may seem intimidating now, but if you are fairly good with tools, patient and ask questions, you can do it. Let us know the progress!

 

[jeff.m]

Re: Replacing deck - please check my procedures

quick question. when laying the fiberglass mat, should i be using a polyester resin or the epoxy resin again? and should i rough up the initial coatings of epoxy resin to get the fiberglass to adhere better?

 

[Realgun]

Re: Replacing deck - please check my procedures

Basically marine plywood is overkill in your situation. it a fllor not a hull! <br />Now get exterior grade plywood and get epoxy resin. If you have a gap in the floor more than 24 inches you would be better served with 3/4 inch rather than 1/2 inch exterior plywood.<br /><br />Cut the floor to fit kind a lossely like 1/4 inches on a side it really doesn't matter if your really accurate just very close.<br /><br />Now coat each piece of wood twice with thin epoxy basical just the epoxy itself. I got away with 1 coat of a thick epoxy but I used a putty knife to spread it and get it even. Make sure you get the edges as thats where you will get the rot started from.<br /><br />Now put the plywood back in the boat if its on a stringer then coat the stringer with peanut butter. Basivcally you will now mix some glass fibers and/or fumed silica to thinken the epoxy so it does not run basically like peanut butter cosistancy. You will really want to use som Stainless Steel screw into stringers only shoot 1 thru the hull and you gonna be posting how fo fix a hole!<br /><br />After the floor is down you will want to use some fiberglass tape and epoxy to glue the edges to the boat. Or you can go with milled glass and lots of epoxy and fill all gaps. Thats what I did.<br /><br />Then take a big piece of glass cloth that reaches from side to side and glass that in. after the glass is dry you will want to caot it 1 more time to lock the glass into the epoxy.<br /><br />If you coat the wood then the next day or so but not longer than 48 hours you will not need to sand the epoxy. If you want longer than 72 hours ist a good idea to sand the epoxy and wipe with acetone to get up the dust.<br /><br />Hope this helps. You can see my project at the link below.

 

[Got a Boat]

Re: Replacing deck - please check my procedures

With th fuel thank i would be very carefull if there is some corrosion, especially punctual corrosion. I also would pressure test your fuel tank to make sure its not gonna to be a ride on a gazoline bomb.

 

[wilkin250r]

Re: Replacing deck - please check my procedures

With all the time you're spending on the floor, a new gas tank might be a wise investment unless you are 100% sure the tank is in primo condition.<br /><br />Imagine finishing your floor and THEN finding a gas leak 3 months later!

 

[jeff.m]

Re: Replacing deck - please check my procedures

thanks for the post realgun. that's the kinda narrative i was looking for.<br /><br />as far as the tank is concerned i want to take a look at the gas that comes out of it to see if there's any sediment in it. the good news is that it's stored in a compartment above the flooring in the back of the boat, so if i do need to replace it at a later date it will be an easy procedure.<br /><br />also, when we were tearing the floor out there was some foam down there. it was very brittle and in many pieces, so we threw it away. i'm sure it needs to be replaced before we put the new floor on top of it. where is the best place to get replacement foam? i'm sure it's not the kind of stuff you can just pick up at home depot. and what do i use to hold it in place? i don't want it to get in the way of the drain holes between the compartments. thanks again.