replacing drive shaft seal 25E76E ...25 HP 1976 Johnson

[dthx]

1.) Does anyone know a trick to remove the drive shaft seal from this motor's lower unit housing? .....I dont have a tiny puller (if there is such a thing).....I saw a Youtube post of a guy that drilled a hole in the seal and used a pair of vice grips to pull it out...I'm a little worried about drilling a small hole and not damaging the brass bearing underneath,,
Maybe a piece of all thread or something.....I don't know yet...
2.) I bought a gearcase seal kit.....the kit has a couple of seals that look loke thedrive shaft seal....
Does a gear case seal kit generally include a drive shaft seal ??
Thanks

 

[racerone]

Do you have the driveshaft out ?--------Yes seal kits do come with the driveshaft seal.--------Just pry it out with a hefty screwdriver.

 

[dthx]

Yep...drive shaft is out....pinion gear is off , of course,.....gear case is apart....sealing services cleaned....all gears and parts are cleaned and appear fine....
Spaghetti seal is ready...I've got the 3M 847 High Dollar sealant ready to go...
I thought that I'd replace the gear shift rod seal and the drive shaft seal while I've got the case apart.
I don't see a shift rod seal in the kit, though....maybe I'm wrong....will look again 'cause I think it should be there....
Hefty screwdriver....? That sounds too easy!....I was gonna tap the thing..(looks like brass)... and pull it out....
I'm sure I can do it with a screwdriver...but the housing is aluminum and I should be careful, right?

Now the shift rod seal is another matter.....its 4 or 5 inches down in the housing.....I should tap it and pull it out?.......right?
Don't want to buy a puller for just one job.....
What say you?
Many thanks for the time your taking to lend the help....wish I could buy you a beer...

 

[dthx]

Oh....wait a minute!.....I just looked at the parts diagram on the internet.......around the shift rod there appears to be a bushing and an o-ring,,,and a gasket.....I think I have the o-ring and the gasket.....but not the bushing......I see that it's about $12.00 and I don't see something like that in the kit......damn it....got to order something else......more waiting.....
But preventing water from getting water into the case is so important....
What do you think?

 

[racerone]

There is a special tool to drive the bushing out.-----Or you run a 5/16"-NC tap in the bushing and pull it out with threaded rod and yes you re-use the bushing after that.---And on occasion I replace the o-ring without removing the bushing .--I do the third method just for fun as most will say that it can not be done !

 

[dthx]

What do you do?....insert a long pick down there from the other side and pick it out and then use some long ......no....the o-ring is under the bushing....prob. in a machined shoulder....Hmmmm.......How do you do Dat?

 

[racerone]

The bushing is there to hold the o-ring in place.---A manufacturing technique.----I know how to replace that o-ring without removing that bushing !I------ I can not reveal tricks for a mere dime !

 

[dthx]

I haven't tapped the shift rod bushing yet......and
Well, the Big Hefty screw driver didnt work for taking out the drive shaft lip seal...Or said another way...I couldn't get it out....maybe I used the wrong technique.

I also took a carriage bolt and ground it down so that I could stick it down in the seal and get the edge of the bolt under the seal at its bottom.....then I attached a plate to the bolt and tightened the carriage bolt...kind of a poor man's gear puller......Anyway,...the seal is in there so well....all I did was bend the seal upwards......
I even tried to screw a self tapping screw in to it and rap on a pair of vise grips.....
It's in there Baby!
I couldn't upload a picture...the error message says that the file exceeds the limit......it's just a regular digital shot of the seal.

 

[lindy46]

Go buy a seal puller from an auto parts store. They're only about $10-15 - and have a double-sided hook-like end (one large, one small) for prying out the seal. Work your way around the seal, prying a little at a time. Be careful not to hit the casting.

 

[dthx]

OK...friend of mine helped me get the drive shaft seal out...needle bearing is below and I'm not gonna mess with that....
I tore up the seal so badly that its number is now unreadable.
BUT...in my seal kit I have 2 lip seals that fit the hole in the casting and they appear to be the same size......they are each 1/2 as thin as the old one..
Question #1.....
Was the old seal a double lip seal....? should I put these two seals "back to back" when I insert them into the casting.....sealing from both directions?
Also ....I tapped the shift rod bushing and pulled it out....
Behind it is a gasket.
But inside the bushing is a little fat o-ring.....
Question #2...
Have any of you had trouble putting the shift rod thru that o-ring ...cause the hole seems smaller than the old o-ring.

 

[racerone]

That "little fat o-ring " has been used on about 1,000,000 motors.---You will have no trouble with that.----The old o-ring is perhaps 40 years old.---The rubber has taken a " set "and that is why that o-ring is a major leak point.

 

[dthx]

OK....I"ve put the gasket and bushing in and inserted the shift rod....all went well as you suggested....
I went ahead and ordered a single shaft seal for the drive shaft.....more waiting....
Once I get that in..I can put it all back together.....with the all important....3M #847....
BTW...I have it from a very good source ( I can't give you his name , but he works for NASA)... that the 3M 847 is actually made in a factory on the back side of the moon....

 

[James R]

As far as I remember you put both the thinner seals in one on top of the other.

 

[hardwater fisherman]

Yes I agree if they fit in then you put them back to back.

 

[lindy46]

Yes I agree if they fit in then you put them back to back.

Bottom one with lip facing down (toward oil) and top with lip facing up.