Replacing floor and stringers in "96 Crownline 202 BR

[AgainstTheWind13]

Okay, it's true. By nature, I'm a dumpster diver. There's something about bringing a basket case back to life that always gets me going, and I've really bitten off something to chew this time. This winter, I stumbled across a 1996 Crownline 202 Bowrider project boat with good lines and lots of problems. The hull and transom? Solid. Engine? Cracked block! And the floor? Ah, the floor. It's the usual, for a 20 year old boat from an owner that didn't have sense to cover it and shield it from the weather. So now I'm opening her up for renovation. At this point, engine is out and a new build is underway. The Alpha One outdrive was geared for a 5.7 Mercruiser, and that's what's going back inside. I looked for a suitable block for a month, and located a great one, with the help of a very good independent boat mechanic. He's currently building the engine.

Now it's time to replace that floor. Like many boats of this age, pulling back the carpet revealed floor (sole) rot on the panel that covers the fuel tank, and there was also some rot on the insides of the ski locker. I've now pulled enough of the flooring off to see that while the stringers aren't completely rotted, there are spots, and everything under there is waterlogged. I've decided to replace stringers as necessary and the floor on top of that. As I began to figure out how to do this, I came upon the string posted by Badfish95, and it has become one of my best sources of knowledge. I still have questions, and I want to make sure I get this right. Help from you guys (a lot of you seem to have done similar projects) would be great. Here's where I am:

? I've begun tearing out, and have thus far siphoned and removed (and cleaned) the fuel tank. Along with the transom and engine mounts, the rear floorboards on either side of the engine seem to be very solid, so I was thinking of beginning my stringer and floor replacement from there forward. I've fully exposed the bulkhead that separates the fuel tank area from the engine compartment, and that piece of 3/4 inch plywood is water-logged and soft. To you and all the guys who have done a floor replacement, do you see any problem with this? I've been studying the stringer layout, and it seems that it shouldn't be too hard to double the thickness of that bulkhead and connect to the area behind. Agree or object?

? Also, wondering if I can stop my floor board cut somewhere BEFORE the outside edges that meet the boat hull. I'm concerned about gouging the hull. Thoughts on cutting up to the fiberglassed blocks that extend from the walls to around four inches inward?

? Finally, I was wondering how to connect the stringers together, pre-fiberglassing. Badfish's photos look like the stringer pieces are individually cut (versus some sort of interlocking). Should I just glue them together to hold them in place before doing all the peanut butter and fiberglass?

Thanks for any info - AgainstTheWind13 (new to the forum!)

 

[Woodonglass]

Welcome to iBoats. Pics of your progress will help the members be able to guide you to the best solutions. This might be of some help for you...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[Badfish95]

"Badfish, lots of props for the work you've done on your '94. Looking super solid. Your string has been my main source of knowledge as I tackle my own sucker project: A 1996 Crownline 202BR very similar to yours. I've begun tearing out, and have thus far siphoned and removed (and cleaned) the fuel tank, etc. I didn't invest very much (yet) in mine, because the engine blick was also cracked. The engine is out currently (being built), and I have the space to rebuild the floor. The good news is that the transom and engine mounts are solid. The rear floorboards on either side of the engine also seem to be very solid, so I was thinking of beginning my stringer and floor replacement from there forward. I've fully exposed the bulkhead that separates the fuel tank area from the engine compartment, and that piece of 3/4 inch plywood is water-logged and soft. To you and all the guys who have done a floor replacement, do you see any problem with this? I've been studying the stringer layout, and it seems that it shouldn't be too hard to double the thickness of that bulkhead and connect to the area behind. Agree or object? Also, wondering if I can stop my floor board (sole?) cut BEFORE the outside edges that meet the boat hull. I'm concerned about gouging the hull. Thoughts on cutting to the fiberglassed blocks that extend from the walls to around four inches inward? Thanks for any info - I know this job has to be done correctly. - AgainstTheWind13 (new to the forum!)"

Welcome to the club ATW! Glad to see another 202 getting an extreme makeover. As for your questions, I'll let you know how I approached it and you can decide for yourself.

Harbor Freight angle grinders are your friend. Pick up at least one and a bunch of cutoff wheels and heavy grit flap disks. Plunge cute to the floor about 1/2" from where the floor starts to transition up the side of the hull. You will only need to cut 1/8" to 1/4" deep in order to release the floor. Once the floor is removed, just grind the fiberglass back flush to the hull with the flap disks. This will be the easy part after hacking all that wet foam out of the bulkheads.

I actually suggest keeping a few of the old stringers in the boat to help you keep the same floor height. You'll know more about their condition once you get it opened up. Be careful how you "double up on the stringers near the fuel tank bulkhead. It's s tight fit as it is. You wouldn't want to add the foam and then realize your tank won't fit back in! Those blocks are just glassed in 2x4's. I replaced mine with treated ones. Peanut buttered them to the deck and glassed them in. Budget at least 15 gallons of resin but I recommend 20. You will waste a bunch when it's all said and done. Also, get a good respirator and a bunch of replacement filters.

Lastly, take a bunch of photos and post them to this thread. We will encourage you to keep going when your arms are itching, back is tired and your bank account is running on empty.

 

[Badfish95]

Also, we need to hear more about the engine being built. Did you go 350?

Never mind, I re-read your post and see you went with the 350. Mine does pretty well with the 5.0, but the 5.7 is the way to go. Might as well do it right and go captains call while you are at it!

Does she have a name?

 

[AgainstTheWind13]

Thanks much, Wood! Between the instructions and that nice video, I think I'm beginning to get the picture. It still seems like quite a process to get it right, but I'm sure I'll get a better feel when I actually start to do it. I'm sure I'll have more questions, but this is a great start.

 

[AgainstTheWind13]

Thanks for the great knowledge, everyone- and I did check out the misadventure with the PL as bedding for the stringers. I definitely won't go that route. I'm excited to get this done, but I know the road between here and there will be challenging! Badfish, I'm definitely getting the grinder from Harbor Freight; it sounds like the solution for getting up to that edge safely. And I'm assuming you also cut out those wooden blocks and just replaced with new ones (or did you?)

As for the engine, it was a strange story. If you have the time:

I bought the Crownline from a salvage place, that basically traded with the owner (who was local). I spoke with the former owner on the phone, and he said he had the boat since just 40 hours were on it, that it was running when he left it in his yard (uncovered) three years ago. The engine inside it with the cracked block was a 5.0 liter, and that's what my mechanic suggested as replacement, because he says the engines and outdrive are matched for performance. Basically, he says the heavier torque from a 5.7 will strip the gears inside an outdrive set up for a 5.0. He also told me he found a bushing from one of the motor mounts loose in the engine compartment, indicating someone had pulled the engine. The salvage place swore they hadn't, but I believe they did (again, paid very little for the boat). Accepting the idea that I needed to go back with a 5.0, I began cleaning this nasty boat. Surprise! The Mercruiser outdrive actually had a 5.7 plate on it (and I had to scrub junk off it to find that?pretty sure it's original to the outdrive). I called my mechanic and told him to stop work on the 5.0 block machining and find a 5.7 block (secretly overjoyed to be able to go with the bigger power plant). He did, and we located an excellent 5.7 liter block that hadn't been machined before. A new crate engine was pretty pricey, and he's a good builder, so I went that way.

And I'm definitely lusting for the Captain's Call exhaust, but I'm waiting to see how much money goes out the door to get the boat back to snuff. I'd love to do it when the engine goes in, but we'll see. And have we named her? Not yet. I think as the clay gets shaped, a name will become clear...

 

[Corjen1]

Love these Crownlines!! Ive been on the hunt for one like yous to redo. Like others have said, take a billion pix, you will need them later. the HF grinders are great, I went through 3 of them, but &20 and 5 for the life time warranty....makes them almost like bic lighters!!

Good luck !

 

[AgainstTheWind13]

Hi again, everyone, I've begun pulling out more of the floor, and I'm really pondering this edge of the floor thing. All around, the floor is solid for at least 3-5 inches out from the edge of the hull (this space includes the original anchoring blocks at the edges). I've seen lots of situations (and I believe Badfish did this) where the floor was taken out all the way to the hull, which makes sense with regard to getting old stringers out and new ones into position. But I also talked to a guy who swears the smart choices is to leave lip around the edge to add strength. I wouldn't mind doing this, but I'm now wondering if I could raise the new stringers by 5/8 of an inch, so the new floor top could ride on top of the lip that I'd be leaving. Otherwise, it seems like a weak seam. Any thoughts on this?

 

[Woodonglass]

Got Pics?

 

[AgainstTheWind13]

I don't have pics of my floor at the moment, but I had seen this one. It's like mine, and you can see where they cut within about 3 inches of the hull, left that lip and the wood blocks that are used to anchor side panels. These folks did their new stringers and placed under the lip (do-able, I'd think) and the question becomes how to floor either up against that lip or over it. I like the idea of leaving that original floor edge to hold shape and add structure. Can this create a stable floor, or just a weak seam at the edge?

 

[Woodonglass]

IMHO the method shown is an OK method. Having the stringers and bulkheads at the original heights and then butting the new deck up to the Lip of the old deck filling the gap between the two and then tabbing the gap with 1708 will yield a strong and structurally sound joint. It's the method I'd use if I were doing it. Others may have differing opinions. I AM just an Old Dumb Okie so make sure and take that into consideration when you make your decision!!!!

 

[AgainstTheWind13]

I'm all about the wisdom, Wood! I just don't want to cut something out and then say, "Well, that was stupid..." Thanks for the advice - I think that's the way I'm going to go. The guy I was talking to was basically advocating leaving original factory bits to attach things to, and it made a lot of sense. Helps keep shape the way it came from the factory, right?

 

[Woodonglass]

Absolutely, If it aint broke, don't fix it!!!

 

[Badfish95]

I used a few existing stringers to keep the original plane of the deck and then glassed up the hull. And yes, I glassed in new treated 2x4 blocks. The blocks are only there to screw the side panels in.

After seeing that picture, I'm actually with you on leaving a little bit of the tab sticking out. Leaving the tab would give a good reference line. As for structural integrity, I also think you'll be fine. Just be sure to prep from the tab up the sides of the hull 6" or so. A course grit flap disc should do the job quickly and give the new resin something to bite to.