Repower 2000 suntracker

RaiderEric

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Apr 5, 2020
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Anyone ever Repower a 2000 model fishin barge 21 suntracker, has a 99 60 merc 2 stroke wanting a merc 90 4 stroke ct. I'm concerned about weight on transom the 90 is 150 more lbs any thoughts on new here
 

ahicks

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I think you're pushing it with most 20' 'toons that age. The exception being one with 25" tubes and mounts that keep the engine no further back than the end of the tubes. A REALLY lightly loaded 20' 'toon might work out OK too. Like one with NO furniture across the back.

Unless you really need the power, I believe you'd be much happier with a 40-60 hp 4 stroke. You can look at them 2 ways. the first, they were MADE for cruising on a pontoon. The other way, pontoons were MADE for 40-60 hp 4 stroke motors. EVERYONE that tries one just falls in love with them.....

Maybe a little partial here. I'm retired and my hobby is working on dead mid size Hondas. Bringing them back from the dead, whatever it takes. They're all I work on, mostly the 40's and 50's with a few 90's thrown in. Keeps me in mad money, with nobody looking over my shoulder wondering when their motor will be done. WAY too grouchy to put up with that any more, but I Love to see the grins when they see one of these run.

Point is, I've set up my share of 4 strokes on the back of 'toons and fishing boats.
 

HotTommy

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I can't offer a yes or no opinion, but I will offer some food for thought. ..... First, if you want to see how the boat sits at rest with the heavier engine, have a 150 pound person go as far to the back of the boat as they safely can. If they can sit on top of the engine cover, that's how your boat will sit. .... As far as the engine pod (that canoe shaped piece with the transom on the back) you'll need a trained and experienced person to look at it. When I decided to repower my old 24' two log pontoon boat with a much heavier engine, I realized the original engine pod was inadequate for three reasons. First, it was old and had already had fatigue cracks rewelded. Second, the transom was made of wood and did not appear sturdy enough to handle the twisting torque the engine produces when under power. And third, the cross beams supporting the engine pod did not appear strong enough to support either the weight of the engine or the torque. So I shopped around and found a used engine pod that was much sturdier. I added some aluminum angle crossmembers to support it better and it worked out well. But that engine pod was a little heavier that the original so the rear of the boat sat even lower in the water at rest. .... My bottom line is that it is possible to put a much heavier 90 on your boat, but you may be much happier with a 4-cycle 60 as ahicks suggested.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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make sure to look at the mounting of the engine pod. many tracker toons have dropped their engine pods over the years here on iBoats.
 

ahicks

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^^^ Good thought there! Many of them just have 4 bolts, and many of those are badly corroded. Best to give that pod a good gong over!
 

RaiderEric

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Apr 5, 2020
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Yeh the engine pod is bolted to the bottom of the boat wit the two on the end closest to the motor had some cracks in the welds so I reinforced it with some thicker metal I will post some pics tomorrow you guys tell me what y'all think. I just always heard go.with the biggest your boat is rated for. I looked at the 60 ct much cheaper than the 90! Lighter too. The boat is set up that way engine doesn't set further than back of pontoons and only 1 chair back there. Thanks for y'all help guys
 

ahicks

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I'm looking at the second pic, the one showing the rear pod attach bolt. It LOOKS like that stringer does not go all the way across, from pontoon to pontoon? If that's the case, it's very likely not adding any support to the engine pod at all. You'll definitely going to need to do some reinforcing there, even if you stay with just a 3 cylinder 4 stroke. -Al
 

RaiderEric

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No it doesn't it makes a point wide in the back headed to the front more of a point
 

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RaiderEric

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Apr 5, 2020
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I really want the 90, guess I'll have to figure out a way to reinforce. I'm confident it will ride well in the water jwith the extra weight, but reenforce would make me feel better about it
​​​
 

ahicks

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For the 90, you might want to look into a double/back to back stringer that runs across the top of both tubes located as far back on the engine pod as possible. You'll need to be careful to allow room for the engine to tilt of course. Maybe locate the double just in front of one that's there now?

I bought some C channel on line from an outfit that sells alum. extrusions online (among other things alum.). They sold it in 8' lengths, and I think it came regular UPS. Going back a couple of years now, but thinking the 2 of them were less than a hundred bucks shipped. Were near an exact match to the existing, only they had thicker walls. Worked out nice for the Honda 90 I did.
 

JaseBosto

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Mar 17, 2010
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The listed weight I can find for the 90 is 359 lbs. If I were going this route I would suggest going over all the welds to make sure there arent any cracked ones, and replacing all the bolts on the pod. A couple extra stringers all the way across from one toon to the other would be a great idea as well.
Then proceed to go boating.
The 60hp is a great motor but I am one of those guys that never wished I had a smaller engine.

On a side note, the 90 is the same engine as the 115. Without actually looking at the prints right now, I think all you would need to do to make a 90 into a 115 is change the computer and remove the restrictor plate out of the intake. And of course a higher pitch prop.
 

RaiderEric

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Apr 5, 2020
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Yeh, gonna replace the old nuts and bolts and add a few too. Couple more cross members and new welds in areas that could have been welded but we're not. also have to fix some cracked welds, Stainless nuts and bolts and washers? The original ones have the bolt head facing down. Thinking I should flip the new ones son the nut is down? Let me hear about it thanks
 

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HotTommy

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Choosing the best nuts and bolts for a project depends on several factors. Stainless steel does not interact electrolytically with aluminum as much as carbon steel so its a good choice for your use. But stainless steel is not as strong and I've broken more than a few stainless screws. For that reason I like stainless in applications where the bolt is mainly holding pieces snuggly in place but without the high torque loads you see in things like bolts holding down the heads on an engine. Because I don't use a lot of torque when I use stainless bolts I tend to use stainless nyloc nuts that resist coming loose under vibration. In that case it doesn't matter whether the nut is on the top or bottom.
 

ahicks

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Any fastener on an alum. or glass boat should be stainless. There may be an exception, but I can't think of one.
 
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