Restoration/Repurpose 1982 160SS

[VT Dukhntr]

I introduced myself a while back, after purchasing a 1982 160SS that I found on the local CL listings. The boat came equipped with a Merc 80hp, that I had no idea if it ran or not. The package was neatly nestled on a Shorelander galvanized trailer, in decent shape (minus I light and a flat tire). The hull of the boat was in great shape, no dings, dents, huge scratches, etc. I took a risk on the motor status, and paid &750 for the whole deal, all nicely shrink wrapped for the remainder of the winter. My intent is to convert this into a duck boat, so the "finish" won't be as pretty as some others here.

Recent uncovering


I took a look at it all on a nice spring day, a few weeks ago, but waited until this weekend to get it out and start the process. I started with seeing if the motor would run. Not fully trusting the PO, I had reservations about what to expect. To my surprise, I found some newer parts under the covers. Including some pricey electronic parts, and some wiring harnesses. Not all of it, but enough to tell me somebody put some money into the motor. The PO gave me a water pump kit, so before trying to make things happen, I swapped out the impeller, and a couple seals. Didn't want water issues out of the gate, if it started. Little frustration getting the LU back into place, but eventually the task was complete. To my delight, the old 80 came to life, surprisingly easily. Took a few minutes to warm up and run without any throttle, but it was all a good sign. That was all Sunday

Monday came, and VT has incredible weather on the agenda. It was 8:30 in the morning, and my boss walked by my desk and told me she was taking the afternoon off. I immediately replied, "well so am I than". .....And I did! Got home around 1:00 and began cleaning up inside the boat. Wasn't sure how much I would get to, but figured it was all good to be outside working on the boat.

So, the next step would be start ripping it apart. The PO suggested the floor has some "soft spots". Walking around inside a bit suggested there was certainly "Soft Spots" I would soon discover that "soft Spots" in this case translate to mulch.


This was coupled with some great sun damage on anything vinyl.


All the leaves, pine needles, and crap vacuumed up.

Notice the nice green carpet area. There was another one under the splash well. I'm certain this wasn't factory installed green carpeting.

 

[VT Dukhntr]

The floor was a wonder of mulch. I put the Shop Vac through a serious workout, as the floor just crumbled as I pulled up the carpet.



But, after a bit of work, and a lot of vacuum time, I am showing some results. Not bad for an afternoon of skipping out of the office.



After cleaning up the inside a bit, I was happy to put this to rest for a few more days. Won't be back at it until the weekend. Need to pull the motor off, and haven't yet figured out how I'm going to go about that. Don't have a lift eye, so might need to rig up something else.

 

[pckeen]

And another project begins - good luck with this, but with a running motor, you are already ahead of the game.

 

[strokendiesel002]

Awesome find! Nice work so far, it'll be fastest duck boat I've seen haha!

 

[jbcurt00]

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/forum-rules-and-guidelines/407734-forum-rules

Please note ^^^
Solicitation, offers, sales and swaps arent permitted in the open forum. 3 posts have been deleted.

 

[smacd11]

Sorry, did not realize that.

 

[Watermann]

Another SS saved from a scrap heap, no matter duck boat or not. The 80 Merc is a good motor for a 16'r, glad it sparked up for you.

Just be careful with those consoles and bow deck support in the garbage heap.

 

[VT Dukhntr]

Waterman, the passenger console isn't going back in, driver is still in the boat. Will save that one, and may put in a low wind screen, maybe from a motorcycle or snowmobile. As well, the front bench will be a modified storage/bench, only in the bow, so the bench support as it was isn't needed. Floor plan will be pretty open to provide plenty of movement inside, for setting decoys, and picking them up. Was thinking about some storage in the front rebuilt bench, and something in the rear. Couple pedestal seat mounts for various seating options. Storage needs will be a few life vests, tools, couple anchors, and not a lot of other crap. Everything else will change with what we are hunting, or where. A cooler also makes nice dry storage, and a seat. Will keep the side shelf space, but redo the padded vinyl with something that is water proof instead. Function over fashion.

 

[pckeen]

For a duck boat, it might be worth making this either a center console or a tiller steering model.

 

[Watermann]

side console is a good way to open up the boat for sure my 16' SN is a side with no windshield.

As far as the bow area goes you'll find there is not much room without there being an elevated deck and that support works great under it.

 

[VT Dukhntr]

A few weeks have passed since I last posted, so I thought I would add some updates on progress.
Time to remove the motor, to get at the transom
Borrowed a chain lift from a co-worker, and chained it to a 4x4 across some garage rafters


Built a stand from the plans I found on this site. Plans seemed to be missing a few measurements, but I'm creative enough to improvise. Had all the wood and set of casters laying around, so I built this quite quickly on Sunday morning.


Then, moved into the yard and finished removing the little bit of floor, drivers console, and that really fun poured foam


Will get to power wash the interior, and get after the adhesive maybe this weekend.


What does everyone hold their floors down with? Wondering, do you get long rivets, and rivet the floor, of use stainless, and screw it down? Also, are you countersinking any of it? Just wondering how Nautolex sits on screws or rivets???

Where can I find that little round plastic piece that the wires and hoses go through in the rear of the transom? Or, should I go with a rubber boot, like the other cables?

 

[ezmobee]

Some use rivets, some use deck screws. I used deck screws on both my restores with no issue. Rivets are better at pulling down boards that might not be sitting perfectly flat on top of stringers or ribs. So if you go the deck screw route and have a board not sitting down flat you might need another dude to stand on it in that spot while you drop some screws in. Either can be countersunk. I screwed mine a bit below the surface and then hit 'em with another dab of epoxy. I can't feel any of them through my vinyl.

Here's your cable grommet http://www.iboats.com/Boat-Parts-Ac...hed.1--filter.prod_name?q=cable grommet&s=sol

 

[mbroughton02]

I used the long rivets with the "large flange head" for my floor. I did not countersink them. You can feel them under the nautolex if you run your hand over one, but you cannot see them unless you are really looking hard.

 

[Watermann]

Nice work on the tear down and clean up. I used large flange blinds for my decking. If you run the vinyl over the already installed decking then you may want to countersink the holes for the heads. I did and used marine tex I had on hand to fill in over the heads and I dipped the rivet shanks in 5200 to seal the holes.

 

[VT Dukhntr]

Was planning to use Nautolex for flooring, as it seems well recommended here. Just wondering, do the colors tend to run darker or lighter than most online images appear? Was thinking about "shark". As this will be a hunting boat, I don't want to be too light, as that isn't good. However, some emphasis is put on covering the top opening to the blind, thus preventing birds from seeing the potentially light colored floor.

What is the preferred adhesive for Nautolex, should I use theirs, or is there something better? Or better valued?

 

[VT Dukhntr]

I also know nothing about rivets, and every time I go looking for them on the internet, I'm not sure what I'm looking for. Need a few solid rivets for the floor (through outer skin), and some "blinds" for the rest. I know there are 4-5 missing for the transom brace, on the floor. 1 missing under the keel, can't see the other side.

 

[Watermann]

Can't help much deciding what the best duck hunting nautolex color would be but I used 3M 80 vinyl adhesive for my SS and regular Wellwood contact cement for my Chief. I can say the 3M worked better and has more bite but it's expensive and sold in big over sized aerosol cans. HD carries it.

Solid rivets are pretty easy, 2 layers of AL you need 3/8" length and all solids thru the hull should be 3/16" diameter. 3 layers 7/16ths.

Blinds are also 3/16" diameter except for the gunnels they use 5/32". Make sure you get the proper grip range with what you're attaching falls into the rivets grip range, the mandrels will snap better and they will be tighter. Too short is of course not good but neither is too long.

Blinds for the decking you'll need large flange and the length depends on deck thickness ie: 1/2" deck .500 x rib .090 = .590 in a perfect word then you have some gap and the deck covering so say .600 so you would want to go to the length of blind up from that say a .750 upper grip range.

Always use solid AL blind rivets and the solids in 2117 T4 alloy not the 1100 which is pure soft AL. Anything thru the hull should also be sealed with 5200.

Hope that helps... I need to write up a rivet tutorial one of these days for a sticky, can't tell you how many times I've typed this. :lol:

 

[BWR1953]

...I need to write up a rivet tutorial one of these days for a sticky, can't tell you how many times I've typed this. :lol:

Yes. Yes, you do!

 

[VT Dukhntr]

Waterman, thanks for the info. Very informative, and should get me on the right path.

 

[VT Dukhntr]

Is pulling the splash well required for a transom rebuild? I see so many that have, but thought I read that it isn't required. Was thinking of getting into the garage tomorrow, to start in on a leak test, then on to transom removal.