Review of my winterizing plan?

[projo198]

1988 Bayliner Capri w/ 2.3L Ford.

This is my first time winterizing, so please let me know if I am on track. The boat will be stored outside in eastern Kansas, we usually have mild winters but it'll still go below freezing a few times.

This is pretty much all from the original owners manual, but I did have a few questions about products because often it calls for OMC-specific lubricants.

1) Add fuel stabilizer. It doesn't specify how much, but I am guessing you add according to how much fuel is in the tank. I was planning on leaving it at about half a tank (around 11 gallons) and adding accordingly. Is there a particular type or brand I need to get, or will any gas stabilizer work?

2) Change motor oil. I'm still not sure on exactly what oil I need to use, but I am suspecting a marine grade SAE 30 4 cycle because the books says to not use oil with a varying viscosity. Is this correct? Also the oil pumps I see at Bass Pro are very expensive, can I just use a cheap auto parts store suction pump to drain the oil?

3) Fog motor. Pretty self explanatory, but any particular type or brand of fogging oil?

4) Drain the cooling system. I know there is a petcock on the exhaust manifold. The book mentions a cylinder block petcock which I have never seen. I am also going to detach the big hose at the water pump, and have to find another to the thermostat?

5) Drain pivot housing. 2 drain plugs; one port and 2 starboard. Store with trim down. That's it, right?



One thing I am skipping is changing the lower unit oil. I am doing this because I did this just a few weeks ago and have only had the boat out twice since.

So am I missing anything, or can anyone fill me in on the questions?

Thanks guys!

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Review of my winterizing plan?

1988 Bayliner Capri w/ 2.3L Ford.

This is my first time winterizing, so please let me know if I am on track. The boat will be stored outside in eastern Kansas, we usually have mild winters but it'll still go below freezing a few times.

This is pretty much all from the original owners manual, but I did have a few questions about products because often it calls for OMC-specific lubricants.

1) Add fuel stabilizer. It doesn't specify how much, but I am guessing you add according to how much fuel is in the tank. I was planning on leaving it at about half a tank (around 11 gallons) and adding accordingly. Is there a particular type or brand I need to get, or will any gas stabilizer work?

2) Change motor oil. I'm still not sure on exactly what oil I need to use, but I am suspecting a marine grade SAE 30 4 cycle because the books says to not use oil with a varying viscosity. Is this correct? Also the oil pumps I see at Bass Pro are very expensive, can I just use a cheap auto parts store suction pump to drain the oil?

3) Fog motor. Pretty self explanatory, but any particular type or brand of fogging oil?

4) Drain the cooling system. I know there is a petcock on the exhaust manifold. The book mentions a cylinder block petcock which I have never seen. I am also going to detach the big hose at the water pump, and have to find another to the thermostat?

5) Drain pivot housing. 2 drain plugs; one port and 2 starboard. Store with trim down. That's it, right?



One thing I am skipping is changing the lower unit oil. I am doing this because I did this just a few weeks ago and have only had the boat out twice since.

So am I missing anything, or can anyone fill me in on the questions?

Thanks guys!

Howdy,

1. Instead of using stabilizer, just drain the fuel and run it in your car. If there's no fuel in the tank, you don't have to "stabilize" it. When you're ready to run the engine next Spring, just change the fuel filter and fill the tank with fresh fuel.

2. Use any suction system you like. The idea is to replace the oil with fresh oil and inspect what you remove for water intrusion.

2a. Change the oil in the outdrive too, and look for water intrusion. You want to change it to ensure that you have non-contaminated oil in there for the long winter "sit". Drain and refill according to the OMC service manual instructions (Refill from the 'fill" port. NOT the bottom)

3. There's a LOT of fogging oils out there. They all pretty much do the same thing.

4. Drain the block and manifolds. if there's no petcock, then look for pipethread-plugs. when you remove the plugs, use a small screwdriver/piece of wire to poke in the hole(s) to clear rust and other debris so you KNOW all the water is drained.

5. Any place that can pool water should be either drained or suctioned with a shop-vac to ensure that all water is removed. (Air doesn't freeze.....someone said that)

Cheers,

Rick

 

[koolhandluke]

Re: Review of my winterizing plan?

The sticky info for DIYers' at the top of this forum has a great comprehensive section regarding winterization. Either drain the fuel or top off the tank and stabilize the contents. Half a tank will permit condensation to form on the inside of the tank and may contaminate your fuel, corrode your tank and cause performance issues in the spring. Make sure you find that block drain petcock in addition to the exhaust manifold petcock. Unscrew them right out of their respective fittings and poke a wire in there like Rick in the previous post suggested. I usually leave them removed for the winter and put them in the battery tray where I'll find them next spring. Half a cup of clean motor oil poured slowly down the carburator throat when its running for the last time and then closing the choke to stall it has always worked for me to fog the engine. Check out the sticky post though. You don't want to forget to do something and get a suprise in the spring.
Steve

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Review of my winterizing plan?

Half a tank will permit condensation to form on the inside of the tank

Some people dispute that....

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/myth_of_condensation_in_fuel_tanks.htm

 

[tpenfield]

Re: Review of my winterizing plan?

I go with the empty tank method as well. Particularly now that I am getting into larger boats with 160 gallon tank.

Some folks run the RV/Marine anti-freeze through their engine, others drain the engine. There are issues to consider with both, a hybrid approach may be best.

Also, make sure any other plumbing on the boat (water systems, bait wells, toilet facilities) are drained and anti-freeze applied.