Re: rewiring a prodject
I've done a bunch of wiring on my boat in the past few months and bought most of the wiring, heat shrink tubing and connectors from Genuine Dealz, good products and prices. Nice that you can buy 5 of these, or 10' of a specific colored wire,,, instead of a whole box of connectors or a whole roll of wire.
http://genuinedealz.com/
If you go the route of doing your own wiring, invest in a good set of crimping pliers, not those cheap $5-10 type, but a good $20-30 set of crimp pliers, Vaco, Klein, etc. Maybe even a set of ratcheting crimpers with the proper dies if you want to have the best crimps possible, they are spendy though $50+.
I checked out the link Tim posted and it looks like they have a very good product, weather-pack connectors for each device, pretty cool. The down side to the weather pack connectors is you will have to feed those big connectors through everywhere, might not be a problem, but could be a huge problem if you need to fish wires through tight spaces. Also, I guess the harness is a fixed length so you might be shorted on some runs and have excess on others, maybe, I don't know as I haven't seen their product, just a question I'd have if I was buying a fixed length harness.
Ooops, bilge pump leads are 6" too short, but the live-well pump leads are 10' too long.
Here's the marine color code which will help keep things organized, also help you order your wiring if you decide to completely re-wire yourself, 12' of this wire, 45' of that wire.
http://www.glen-l.com/weblettr/webletters-5/wl44-wiring.html
When it comes to switches, basic on/off switches will wire as easy as ST's diagram, but the lighted switches are more difficult with 4-6 posts on the back of the switch;
- +12V post
- post for switched device (bilge pump, etc)
- ground post for the switch's light
- + post for switch's light
- optional post for on-off-on switch (nav lights)
- can't remember, but I did see one with 6 posts
I agree with SB, get a manual, I downloaded my Mercruiser manual right here from the forum, in the "Adult's Only" sticky post at the top of the I/O forum. After looking at the manual, and the color code chart it was easy as pie. The only funky thing was some of the jumpering for grounds and hots as my switch panel had things daisy chained, 2 wires crimped into 1 lug. These were for low current and redundant connections, grounds, lights, something like this;
+12V----------lug----------------lug-----------lug-------------lug----------lug