Rochester Automatic Choke "stuck".. is my priming procedure wrong?

[CaptnKingfisher]

Rochester 2 jet carb with automatic electric choke.
Omc cobra 2.3 L

I'm trying to set the choke so when cold, choke plate is cracked open about 3/16" (more experienced friend suggested that to me.. seems to start pretty well at that setting). My issue is this: Ive adjusted the choke how I want it, but if I prime the engine by shifting into forward and then back to neutral, when I return to neutral my choke plate stays open instead of returning to the cold "closed" position.

The thought just occurred to me that maybe I'm not supposed to prime the engine like that.. someone told me to do it that way and I've been doing it ever since and maybe it's the wrong way to do it?

Either way theres another problem...(maybe the same problem)...after running the engine, shutting it down and letting it cool completely down (overnight) the automatic choke does not return to the closed position, it stays stuck open. If I remove the flame arrestor and push it down with my finger it returns to the appropriate position.

Ive verified choke is cold when this occurs (by feeling it with my hand). I also verified the power to the choke only has power with key "on". To me it definitely feels like the throttle arm isnt moving as freely as it should move. I tried lubricating with silicone lubricant but no improvement.

Three ideas in my head:
1: Is my prime procedure wrong?
2: If I take apart the choke plate and lubricate the moving parts, what type of lubricant should I use? I definitely feel like something is binding up and stopping it from moving freely.. I'm thinking I may need to sand or file something down?
3: is it possible my shift cable is out of adjustment and causing this?

I made a video showing my whole process. Any advice appreciated you guys are the best

 

[alldodge]

Your priming is correct
To adjust the choke move the throttle forward so it releases the tension against the cam. With the throttle in neutral there is tension against the cam which is causing your issue.

Also should use a 5/64 drill bit for the gap

 

[Lou C]

Ok a couple of things:
1) when priming for a cold start you don’t shift to FWD then back to neutral. You disengage the shift control from the throttle by pulling out the handle toward you (OMC control) or pushing in the center button (Teleflex & others). open the throttle all the way that allows the choke to close. You then advance the throttle about 1/3 this sets the fast idle. Marine carbs do not have fast idle cams like an auto carb does, you have to manually set it with the throttle setting
2) the choke pull off should be operated by a vacuum diaphragm that pulls the choke open a fraction of an inch as soon as the engine starts. If this is not working or disconnected you’ll have trouble with cold starts. Normally the choke closes all the way and the vacuum break pulls it open to give the engine enough air to keep running.
3) the only thing to use to clean the choke plate & linkage is carb cleaner nothing else. Any sticky lubricants will cause trouble.