Rodbolt 1 more ?

[Slacker2]

On that steering arm bushing 95 yamaha that I talked about can you tell me how long that bushing is? When I drill the hole for the zerk I think it would be best to try to get it as close to the center as possible. Thanks again for your help.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Rodbolt 1 more ?

man I have not had one apart in some years. its usually not worth paying my time but best I remember your looking at a busing at the top and bottom that are maybe 2 inchches long 2.5 maybe.<br /> usually by the time the tiller or shift shaft corrode away it requires cutting off the powerhead, then removing the adapter assy and exhaust pipe to replace the adapter. that will require removal of the powerhead,gear case and exhaust housing, by then your almost to the tiller. to remove the steering tiller from there will require removing the lower mount yoke. <br /> make sure its mounted to something solid as its a wrestling match sometimes.<br /> 15-20 hours is not uncommon with a good set of drill bits and an oxy/acetylene rig. I did the bushings on an ex boss,s 200´s and spent 2500 in parts and 52 hours in labor. was a good time,

 

[Slacker2]

Re: Rodbolt 1 more ?

Thanks, That gives me some idea of where to drill. Merry Christmas

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Rodbolt 1 more ?

like I say when you get the hole drilled and tapped try filling the area with chlorox , I have also used GoJo in my grease gun to aid in breaking up crud.<br /> I have also used oxy/acetylene to slightly melt the bushing to allow it to move again. most saltwater motors that old are not worth the time it takes to dissasemble them if your paying 75+ per hour. if you use bleach under pressure to try to flush the corrosion,bleach will turn it into fish slime, WEAR eye and lung protection, chlorine vapors can be painful and nasty.

 

[Slacker2]

Re: Rodbolt 1 more ?

Actually I've got it pretty loose now. I used penetrating oil (blaster) and got it moving both sidways and up and down (the snap ring grove on the bottom is rusted away). I then flushed as much as I could with break clean and then tilted motor so a pool of phosphoric acid would soak the front side of steering arm. I kept the whole shaft wet and let capillary action soak entire shaft (I hope) Let that soak for 1 1/2 days and then flushed with water,blew out as much water as I could and finished with penetrating oil and teflon. It was pretty free then. I finished using white marine grease. I would lift the motor and get a space approx 1/4" and fill that with grease and then turn the wheel letting the shaft fall down and forcing some grease down the shaft then worked the shaft. Repeated this procedure several times. It is almost as loose as a new one now. The zerk should let me lube this area after each trip and keep it working. Thanks again for the help. <br />By the way the phosphoric acid worked great for dissolving the rust.