rotten transom

[gspig]

I knew the transom in my boat was rotten. I used it last year hoping that it would last the season. It did, and typical to KY, there was no extended Fall. Went from 70 and 80 degree temps to 40 and 50 with several weeks of freezing. Due to the temps, I didn't do any work on the boat. This weekend, I thought I would address some trailer issues and inspect the boat hull. I attempted to remove the trailer from under the boat. What I accomplished was pulling a large opening in the transom where the side and transom form a corner. I can do a quick patch to make the area watertight. <br /><br />What damage will I do if I continue to run with a weak transom? I have a gimble bearing, but will the coupler be severely damaged as long as alignment is good? I plan to end the season in Sept this year and properly replace the transom, but if I start when the weather is cooperating, I could lose most of the boating weather.<br /><br />Should I fix now or fix later?

 

[jsfinn]

Re: rotten transom

My vote is for fixing it now... It would be really hard to fix the boat if it sank in the meantime. <br /><br />Serously though, all the power from the boat pushes on the transom - if it's not strong, it could be dangerous. <br /><br />Better just bite the bullet and "get 'er done!"

 

[Bondo]

Re: rotten transom

Ayuh,..........<br /><br />Gotta Agree.........<br /><br />A Weak Transom will Never Hold Alignment.........<br /><br />Everytime it Flexs, the alignment will be Out,+ I doubt you'd make it thru the season without Serious Issues..........<br /><br />What would concern Me even More is;<br />

What I accomplished was pulling a large opening in the transom where the side and transom form a corner.

That requires a Much Clearer Explanation,... As to whether it's Repairable.........

 

[gspig]

Re: rotten transom

I checked the transom situation yesterday. I figured if I pull the engine and strip the old wood out while the weather is cold, I may only take a couple of weekends and a week after work to replace everything.<br /><br />I need to take pictures of this wood. I pulled at a piece of cracked fiberglass on the inside. It came right off in about a square foot sized chunk. Under that there is several sheets of paper-thin wood plys, they are no longer bonded to each other. I could dig with my finger to the outer hull. It's a miracle that the transom hasn't fallen off, must be a good layer of fiberglass on the hull.

 

[Luna Sea]

Re: rotten transom

Sounds like you've answered your own question. Good luck. Plenty of good info here if you "search"..................

 

[Bondo]

Re: rotten transom

must be a good layer of fiberglass on the hull.

Usually between 1/4",+ 1/2"............<br /><br />All that Wood, just Stiffens things Up,.... Alot........

 

[andrewkafp]

Re: rotten transom

http://www.ausfish.com.au/cgi-ausfish/board/YaBB.cgi?board=Boats;action=display;num=1108953048

 

[gspig]

Re: rotten transom

I gave in and started transom replacement. I sent the outer leg out to get new seals and pulled the motor. I scraped 98% of the transom out in a couple of hours, got one or two 2 foot pieces, everything else looks like course sawdust.<br />First of the questions: How much prep does the inside transom skin need? Do I sand and scrape until fibers are showing or is removing loose wood all that is necessary?<br />Second question: My boat has deep gunwales and rear splash well, I will have to piece the plywood together inside the boat. I was planning on using 2 3/4" plywood sheets. What I want to do is cut the first sheet horizontally just above the I/O cutout then glue to the transom skin with epoxy while also gluing the 2 pieces together. I would then follow with a second plywood sheet. I want to cut the second sheet into 3 pieces vetically. It would be cut so that the I/O section was complete to the center of the first set of stringers then the other two pieces would span to the sides of the hull. I would epoxy this layer to the first and then glass a layer of roving cloth to the entire surface and tying into the hull sides and stringers. Does this sound like a reasonable plan or should I cut the splashwell open and try to insert a full sized replacement piece?