Rough Cost To Replace The Stringers And Floor In My 1990 Baretta Phaser 230 OB

mybadford

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 3, 2010
Messages
82
What does it cost to have this done? Doing the floor, might as well do the stringers? I'm not falling through the floor yet by any means. I am just curious and always like to learn new things being a DIY person and the cost of paying somebody.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...230-ob-project
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kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,738
Materials with you doing it....$3500.00. Outside vendo $7000.00 potatoes. plus xtras. Does not include motor or electrical.
 

mercurymang

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 14, 2012
Messages
853
I'll bet he could do it for three.
I would recommend you put some kind of flotation in there.
 

mybadford

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 3, 2010
Messages
82
Where is all the cost in the material? Plywood and fiberglass resin correct???? I know there's a special sealant to put the cap back together but can't think of it off of the top of my head. What is the difficulty rating on removing the cap?
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 13, 2014
Messages
686
Just to give a rough idea I paid about $1500 for the things listed below including $137 shipping and about $430 for 8 sheets of Arauco ply to redo an 18' IO including transom and engine mounts. You can look up prices at US Composits. That doesn't include things like PPE, acetone, gloves, rollers, misc tools, sandpaper, bandaids and beer...

Quanity Product Description and/or Catalog Number
50yds 1-1/2oz CSM
30yds 1708 Biaxial
4 5gal 435 Resin
2 4gal Cabosil (1.71lb)
1 4lb tub ¼" Chopped Strand
1 2lb Density Foam 80lb kit
1 10 oz tube 3m 5200
1 Box of 24 2" Chip Brushes
1 Fiberglass Roller ½" x4€"
1 Mixing Cups Quart Sleeve/50
1 Mixing Cups 2.5qt Sleeve/25
1 Graduated Cups 8oz Sleeve/25
1 Tongue Depressors Pack of 50
1 Stir Sticks Pack of 50 1
1pt Surfacing Wax
1 1gal White Gelcoat
1 4oz Black Tint
1 1oz Halyard Tint
1 1oz Grey Tint
1 1oz Yellow Tint
1 1oz Brown Colonial Tint
 
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mybadford

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 3, 2010
Messages
82
Just to give a rough idea I paid about $1500 for the things listed below including $137 shipping and about $430 for 8 sheets of Arauco ply to redo an 18' IO including transom and engine mounts. You can look up prices at US Composits. That doesn't include things like PPE, acetone, gloves, rollers, misc tools, sandpaper, bandaids and beer...

Quanity Product Description and/or Catalog Number
50yds 1-1/2oz CSM
30yds 1708 Biaxial
4 5gal 435 Resin
2 4gal Cabosil (1.71lb)
1 4lb tub ¼" Chopped Strand
1 2lb Density Foam 80lb kit
1 10 oz tube 3m 5200
1 Box of 24 2" Chip Brushes
1 Fiberglass Roller ½" x4€"
1 Mixing Cups Quart Sleeve/50
1 Mixing Cups 2.5qt Sleeve/25
1 Graduated Cups 8oz Sleeve/25
1 Tongue Depressors Pack of 50
1 Stir Sticks Pack of 50 1
1pt Surfacing Wax
1 1gal White Gelcoat
1 4oz Black Tint
1 1oz Halyard Tint
1 1oz Grey Tint
1 1oz Yellow Tint
1 1oz Brown Colonial Tint


Whats with all of the tints and surfacing wax? Is that something that applies to your project? Also what is the tongue depressors for?
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
686
Yep just my project, I'm going to be trying to match my gelcoat on the outside of the hull but all together they were a small part of the expense. The wax is used so that the laminating resin we all use will actually harden. The only place most people need it is on their deck in the last layer of glass if they are going to paint or the last layer of gelcoat if they are finishing their deck with gelcoat. Everything below deck doesn't need it. Again, a small part of the expenses. My top three expenses were the resin at $125/5gal, wood and then 1708 biaxial cloth at just over $7 a linear yard.
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
686
Why you thinking about DIY? I won't try to talk you into it, it us a lot of work but several have been less than pleased with what they got when they paid someone else so really do you're research on that. You won't get your money back by fixing it up but if you wanted to use it long term it's a cheap way to have a nice boat compared to new prices for the same thing.
 

mybadford

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 3, 2010
Messages
82
Just curious. . Always looking to learn new things. Seems like a good subject and I am a DIY guy. Hate paying labor for something I can potentially do myself.
 
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Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
686
Ok, just to give you some more background the link below is from one of the good guys, Woodonglass. He has good info on how to replace the transom, stringers and deck. You might want to change the title of the thread (or start a new one with a new title) because it may tend to throw some helpful people off. Don't know how to do that, may require a moderator, someone please help! Also use the search engine and look for cap removal. I have an IO so never did it but plenty have and can help. As far as the deck it is probably tabbed to the hull and covered with fiberglass. Most people cut it out with a circular saw, see link below, and leave an inch or two on the perimeter so they can figure out stringer height. This forum has a number of very knowledgable people who are willing to help with any questions. None of it is rocket science but there is some hard work involved (grinding and cutting out the old stuff) and some things to learn but nothing the average DIY'R type can't handle. Everything you need to know is available for the asking so you don't need to worry about the how to part. First get a free photobucket account, upload some picture there, copy the IMG link and post it directly into your text. The forum thrives on boat porn.
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
686
Oh, I thought ob was outboard. You don't normally have to pull the cap on an IO. Nice looking boat. Enjoy!
 

jc55

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
665
Keep thinking about doing it yourself, if you have the time and motivation. That's some pretty simple construction there. If you love your boat, no one is gonna give it the meticulous "extras" during the build that you will. From under deck cable passages, extra drains, access hatches and extra storage, to sufficient tabbing and coverage of stringers, bilge painting, etc. I finished my first one recently and it's a great feeling. No way a shop would have been as meticulous.
 

mybadford

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 3, 2010
Messages
82
I am a stickler to detail. This is all great info.
 
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jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
If you love your boat, no one is gonna give it the meticulous "extras" during the build that you will. From under deck cable passages, extra drains, access hatches and extra storage, to sufficient tabbing and coverage of stringers, bilge painting, etc. I finished my first one recently and it's a great feeling. No way a shop would have been as meticulous.

You forgot the foam ;) :bounce: :laugh: :faint2:
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
686
You might need to cap it but in my case I had vinyl covering the walkway to the bow and was able to cut that out for access. If/when you decide to do it you can post some pics and see what ideas others might have on it.
 

jc55

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
665
A boat with flotation foam is like a body that keeps surfacing ;)
 
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