Router tops of stringers

[Blown496]

What size router bit do I need for 3/4 plywood? Do I round all the tops or just stringers? Thanks

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome aboard.

Not quite catching what you mean. Can you explain a little more? Stringers are usually left flat so you can secure the deck to the stringers.

 

[Blown496]

I thought it was necessary to get the fiberglass to wrap over the top. My understanding is sharp corners are not good and that’s why you fillet the bottoms

 

[Scott Danforth]

Usually just enough to break the edge so the matt lays down ok. I used 1/8" last time

 

[Blown496]

Thanks. New to this but find it fun so far. Never thought at 71 I would be boat building. Got stung on paying good money for a lake ready boat that is rotten to the core. Bad enough the transom bolts were leaking water and filled the bilge in a few hours. Been reading threads of exact same Crownline 196 restores so am learning a lot. Since I’ll own it till I’m dead may as well suck it up and do it right.

 

[Dennischaves]

I rounded off the tops of my stringers a little
it makes it much easier to go up and over with with 1708 mat
The bottoms leave flat and make a filet with thickend resin you want a cove at the bottom where it meets the hull

 

[AShipShow]

Yup... what they said.. I used 2x material for my stringers so iwas able to get away with a larger radius which made it super easy... thinking the largest you'd wanna go on 3/4 ply is 1/4".

 

[bjf66]

I used a grinder to put a fillet on the top of the stringer then smooth the transition

 

[Blown496]

I guess I could use my grinder it doesnt have to be perfect just rounded.

 

[zool]

I use a belt sander for all my edges, its quick and makes them smooth and round....

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup belt sander is my weapon of choice

 

[Blown496]

Been a while but my resto is coming along. I won't bore you with pics as this 92 Crownline 196 has been done by several others already. Thank goodness, it has helped me a lot. I will say that grinding with a tyvek suit and my remote air suppy I use when shooting urethanes on cars has been a blessing in disguise. Zero itch from grinding. Although I did get some on my arms cleaning the tools afterwards. Won't do that again. I'm ready for bedding and glassing. I plan to mount the transom and outline the drive hole on the back side. I am going to jig saw it on sawhorses. I took pictures and measurements of the old one so it should help. Questions: I would guess from seeing others that cutting the steering reliefs first is the best way to go. Looks to be 45 degree angle. Ant tips for this? I removed the backing for the under platform ladder and want to put it on top. Old folks need a better way to get back in the boat. I will be tabbing over some of the holes doing the transom. I want to epoxy the holes after I finished glassing the transom. Can I drill out the ones I cover with fiberglass and epoxy them like the others? I was looking at he walk through window gap trying to figure out when 65mph down the highway the window actually collapsed to the inside. Had to carefully push the windshield away to get it out. So pulled on the windshield from the sides and it lined up nicely. I then put a ratchet strap around the hull in front of the windshield and with little pressure it lined right up. So should I leave it strapped and bed the stringers and bulkheads or will it matter? Thanks

 

[JASinIL2006]

As for the steering relief slots, you are correct that its much easier if you cut them before you cut out the rest of the keyhole. I used a hole saw and it worked very well.

I would think cutting the relief slots would be much more difficult if you had cut out the keyhole first.

 

[Blown496]

I see some have cut the keyhole first but I'm going to try it outside first.