Rust in my carb

[aquafresshness]

i was surprised to do a search and find that nobody has ever asked about rust in their carb. I have a twin barrel Holley on my Penta 3.0GLP-E and I'm beginning to think it's one of the ones they recalled, seeing as how i have had to rebuild it twice due to corrosion.

This year when I pulled it out of storage after the winter, there was a lot of white powder (like you'd see on battery terminals) on the metal under the flame arrestor and also significant rusting on the choke and just inside the barrels. I may not have gotten all the salt water off of the engine before putting it away for the winter? What's the best way to get ALL salt off the engine? I'm never going to drop the boat in saltwater again. Should I just spray a good amount of salt-away all over the outside of the engine a few times?

3 more questions: What's the best product to clean this up with? Can I use a wire brush, or will this expose metal that will rust more easily? What's a product that I can put on it when in storage to keep from rusting?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Black as]

Re: Rust in my carb

If your boat has been sitting for a long time, you may want to consider the following. Spray-on carburetor cleaners are good, but if your carburetor has mineral deposits on it, you need to learn how to boil a carburetor. There are two ways to boil a carburetor. Most mechanics immediately jump to the second technique described here, but some mineral deposits will come off using the first bath technique and there will be no need for you to use chemicals.




1
Heat the distilled water until it is boiling.

2
Put on the rubber gloves and lower your carburetor into the boiling water. Let sit for ? hour, maintaining a constant boiling temperature. Remove the carburetor.

3
Blow the carburetor dry with compressed air, make sure all bolt holes and tube connections are dry. Examine the carburetor, if you see any mineral deposits left, go on to the next step. If the mineral deposits are gone, re-install your carburetor.

4
Fill a plastic bottle with 1 gallon of carburetor cleaner of other type of heavy duty chemical tool cleaner. Wearing plastic gloves, submerge the carburetor completely in the cleaner. Wait 20 minutes and remove the carburetor.

5
Wipe the carburetor dry with a clean rag, when you have dried it as much as possible with a rag, use compressed air to complete the drying. Look to see if the mineral deposits are gone, if they are not, repeat the chemical bath.

6 After this keep your carby well lubriacted with WD40 inside the throat and choke mechanisms and also the outside housing.

#

Disassemble the carburetor completely as if preparing for a rebuild and boil the parts separately; this way you can get the carburetor as clean as possible.
#

Do not leave a carburetor in either bath for longer than the times stated or you run the risk of removing the top finish off the metal body, allowing for corrosion.

 

[Don S]

Re: Rust in my carb

If you are getting rust in your carb, you need to clean your tank, and install a water seperating fuel filter and not depend on just the filter in the fuel pump and carb.

You can check to see if your carb fall in the recall list by checking your serial number and the carbs date code.
here is a portion of the bulletin.

 

[aquafresshness]

Re: Rust in my carb

Does anybody have a write-up on how to rebuild a Holley twin barrel? I'd like to do it myself... I couldn't imagine it's that hard. The dealer already drilled out the plugs that cover the two mixture screws last time they had to rebuild it. Mine's not in the recall (0377) but I swear it probably should be...

 

[Bondo]

Re: Rust in my carb

Does anybody have a write-up on how to rebuild a Holley twin barrel? I'd like to do it myself...

Ayuh,... 'bout every carb kit I've ever bought had an Instructions sheet in the kit....

Otherwise, I'd imagine the Volvo shop manual covers it...

 

[jerni21]

Re: Rust in my carb

i dont mean to hi jack this thread but could someone give me more details about that TSB or tell me where i could find out more about it?

 

[aquafresshness]

Re: Rust in my carb

So my carb is a Holley 2300. I'm not sure whether it's 350 or 500 CFM, but from what I understand, the rebuild kit is the same for the 2300 regardless. So I just need to get a rebuild kit for 2300?

 

[Don S]

Re: Rust in my carb

It's a 500. But........... Before you run that carb after you rebuild it, clean the tank and install a water separating fuel filter, OR you will be rebuilding again, for the 4th time.

 

[aquafresshness]

Re: Rust in my carb

No worries Don, I'll definitely do that. I also run the blue marine Sta-Bil every tank and store it with a good dose also. Doesn't seem to help. So am I correct to order any of the kits that are for a 2300? I've tried to find the "list number" on the front of the choke horn, but the only numbers on there don't correspond with anything in any of the kits and I can't find them anywhere on the internet.

SAEJ 3887685
1223 75028-4
0337

Those are the only numbers on there and none of them correspond to anything I can find for a rebuild kit.

Also, not on the horn but on the round base are 6R 3250 3D...

So do I just buy a kit for a 2300? Thanks

 

[Don S]

Re: Rust in my carb

you can pour all the wonder chemicals in the tank you can think of, but it's not going to help if you have water in it to start with. All you do is make it worse. The OEM part number for the kit is 3854116

 

[aquafresshness]

Re: Rust in my carb

The OEM part number for the kit is 3854116

But do I have to buy this kit? Or can I buy an aftermarket that's not made by Volvo? That Volvo kit only has one accelerator pump in it and I'm not sure which one my carb has. Other kits elsewhere have both accelerator pumps and they're cheaper.