S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
16
Hello. I have a evinrude 115 hp that i bout recently. I had it out 4 times with no problems at all . Would go 45 to 50 mph in the wind. the 5th time i took it out when you acellerate it stays at 2500 rpm and wont go (just like the slow system).I have disconnected the tan wires from the temp switches and did not change.The manual says it has a blocking diode in it but when i test for it it is open both ways or it doesnt have one.I dont think it has Slow on it because there is no tan wire on the power pack. it is a 90 degree crossfflow engine. The power pack looks like it has been changed before and the number on it is (cd4 584027 18 g t-04). is it possible that some one put the wrong ppack in? any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated ,thanks in advance
 
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
16
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

For got to tell you th year . It is a 1995 four winns and a 1995 evinrude 115 90 degree cross flow.
 

kjdunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
370
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

When you test the diode, if you are using a digital multimeter, make sure it has a diode check position on the switch. If not, many digitals give false readings. Open both ways on the diode, making you think it is bad. A cheap analog meter will test diodes.

If you're sure your powerpack does not have SLOW, do the compression, spark, fuel, troubleshooting procedures you see here so often.
 

npd4432

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 18, 2006
Messages
468
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

I just had the same symptom with my 83 75 HP looper. It does not have S.L.O.W. I would accelarate from a stop and the motor would not go over 3000 rpm. It turned out I was dropping a cylinder due to a gummed up high speed jet in the carb. Sounds about the same, do some compression, spark and fuel tests to try to narrow it down.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

i would do a compression, and spark check, before spending any money. doing the carbs. follow post at the top of the forum.
 
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
16
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

have done some more tests. and according to the manual the two wires coming out of the stator are not supposed to have voltage on them when checked individually to ground. they have 13 - 35 ish voltson them. it also says that when read across them they should have 150 volts ormore.they only have 140volts. also the resistance read low 405 ohms the spec was 430-530 ohms. sensor coil passed the tests in the manual. can i test the power pack with out the load adapter like checking at the primary on the coils?also around teh same time this started the charging system wasnt working.i found out the battery wouldnt hold a charge and reolaced it but still wont charge.the spark at the coil wires seems weak but is firing on all cylinders.when itsat2500 rpms fullthrottle i can push the key in to prime the gas and it wants to bog down. i dont think its fuel related. feels just like it has a rev limiter on it. thanks for your suggestions
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

Disconnect the rectifier and try it. You can take a tach signal off the terminal block if you want.
 
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
16
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

thanks ezeke, when i disconnect the rectifier am I checking to see if the voltage changes on the stator or that the rpms will increase now.thanks
 
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
16
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

thanks again ezeke,youve been very helpfull,
is it possible to do a running test on the primary side of the coils with an a/c multimeter to check voltage. if so im not getting any voltage there with it running. if that be the case coild it be the power pack thts at fault? im getting 140 volts or so into the ppack from the stator.i will try the disconnect of the rectifier also and let you know. its really windy right now where i live in oklahoma and cant take it out on the water. thanks again
 
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
16
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

disconnected charging side of the stator today. still dont have any voltage on the primary side of any coil while running. am taking to the lake later to see if running problem went away, if t didnt is it normal to not have any primary voltage at the coils? could the cap in the power pack be bad and not letting the charge from the stator get to the coils? i checked the volts on the stator while running and it has about 250 to 300 volts into the ppack. i think i have a bad ppack and regulator but want to be sure before i throw money at it. thanks in advance...............derik
 
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
16
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

ok took the boat out today and ran very good ,good power,good top speed, and higher rpms(dont know what they are though-tach disconnected).
so does that mean my rectifier is backfeeding into the ignition circuit or is it the stator that is at fault? still dont understant the missing voltage on the coils though.want to replace the faulty part so as to have a charging system please tell me which one i should buy ....thanks......derik
 

reeldutch

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
1,340
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

how did you test the primairy wires?

if it runs good you must have power feeding into your coils.

when it happens again do a cylinder drop test.

with the motor running pull one wire off and see how the motor reacts.
if it doesnt react you found the cylinder thats not contributing. do this with all 4 till you found the bad one.

i believe you just might have a weak or bad coil or plugs/wires also clean all the grounds on the engine.
powerpack ground, coil grounds, main ground, rect/reg ground.

good luck
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

My worst experience with the water cooled rectifier was that when the kids had hooked the battery up backwards, it actually started a fire in the potting when they reconnected the battery correctly and were out on the lake. Sometimes when the rectifiers are damaged, the wires fuse, allowing battery voltage to reach the ignition. At any rate, you do not want to reconnect that rectifier and you should try to figure out what caused it to fail before you replace it.

It is usually voltage going the wrong way, or loose battery cables, or switching batteries while running that damages the recifier. It could also be that the battery is weak and a number of other possibilities.
 
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
16
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

ithink it was because the battery was bad (found out it was 8 years old ) and also positive terminal was loose. ive changed that battery and tightened cables but i guess its too late . i just need to know if i should change the rectifier/regulator or do i need to change the stator also.........derik
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

Nothing that you have said indicates a bad stator to me.

The rectifier is important for your tachometer and for the maintenance charging of your new battery. If it were my call, I would replace the battery cables at the same time and get outboard cables from a reputable outboard manufacturer if at all possible.
 
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
16
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

thanks again ezeke,
I'll get a rectifier regulator as soon as i can get the money and try it and let you know how it worked.Also I've looked around for rec/reg and found some with the same part number but they look totally differrent. the part number is 193-4204.



193-4204.jpg






CDI193-4204_thumb.jpg





not quite sure which one i need or are they the same . the wires look longer on one and i think mine have longer wires.
 

reeldutch

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
1,340
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

ezeke ,

could you explain to me how the rectifier can have influance on the ignition system(make it fail)

all the rectifier/regulator does is making ac into dc and regulating the voltage by grounding overvoltage.

so how does effect the ignition system?
(i heard of it before)
am i missing something?

just like to know.

thanks reeldutch
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: S.L.O.W. symptoms without slow powerpack

Inside of the potting on the rectifier are a group of diodes. Normally, failure of the diodes for any of the reasons that you are familiar with prevents the rectifier from performing normally.

Too often, when the diodes fail, they generate enough heat to melt the potting and fuse the wires from the several diodes, allowing the battery voltage to flow to the ignition or to heat the potting in the rectifier to the point of ignition.

It is the precise reason that the troubleshooting instructions from various sites list disconnecting the rectifier as one of the first tests when there is no spark.

See CDI Electronics Troubleshooting Guide:

"
"Four Cylinder Engines
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman](Note: If the engine has spark with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is either weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.) [/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engines' ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier. [/FONT]​

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]3. Check the stator resistance. You should read about 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire. [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack). [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]5. Check the timer base resistance from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire. Reading should be 10-20 ohms on each set (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases). [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the #1 sensor wire to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 sensor wire to the #4 sensor wire (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a Sensor Gap Gauge (553-9702) or use the following procedure: [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]a) Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensors and the nuts located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base. [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]b) Slide the sensors in toward the crankshaft until the sensor touches the stop boss located at the base of the sensor mounting area. Tighten the mounting screws. [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]c) Coat the face of the sensors with machinists bluing or equivalent. [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]d) Install the flywheel without the key and rotate the flywheel at least one full turn. [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]e) Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the face of the sensors. If it did, back the sensor out approximately 0.005" and repeat steps c, d and e. [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]f) If the ignition fired, finger tight the nuts on the outside of the heat shield and coat them with RTV. [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]g) If still no fire, replace the sensor. [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]7. Check the DVA voltage on each black/white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the black/white terminals on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (possibly a thin spot in the insulation on one wire). [/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. "[/FONT]
 
Top