Seaking 5hp and 3hp old need help

[SeaKing08]

Hi every one first of all Id like to say this looks like a great site with lots of knowledgable people(unlike myself). I was hoping someone could help me with these two motors I have the seaking 5 horse is model#gg9002b. and the 3 is model# 35gg-9004b. I have dissasembled the carb on the 3 horse to clean it and was wondering if any one has a manual for this engine just to make sure everything is good to go. I noticed it has a cork float that is gas logged and barley floats. I am hoping to replace with maybe something I can make my self. Any suggestions? Also would like to replace gear lube what does this model take? The recoil on it is currently off for repairs. the tiny springs that are connected to the three arms inside are broke and need to be replaced. any one know where I can get these? any and all info on this model would be appreciated. Now for the 5 horse. the 5 horse I think needs new coils. from what I understand these rot pretty bad on these old ones. I know I can get the coils brand new from napa but what would the part # be? Is there any gasket kits or rebuild kits i can get for this? what type of gear lube etc? spark plugs points gaps? any and all info would be appreciated. I would like to get both of these running good. Thanks to all.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Seaking 5hp and 3hp old need help

If the float is not deteriorating into pieces, you can remove it, let it dry out for several days, coat it entirely with shellac or fuel-proof dope/epoxy and it should be good to go. I've seen people make those little springs from ball point pen springs or others. The 3 hp should get Lubriplate 105 white engine grease as lube for the LU. Not knowing the year of the 5 hp, it's hard to say on the coils. If it's 1950 or later, a pair of universal OMC coils won't set you back much. If the 5 hp is a FNR shift model, use regular marine hypoid oil in the LU, if it's an earlier direct drive use the Lubriplate. Here's the spark plug/other info: Champion J6J or J4J, gapped at .030; point gap is .020 and fuel mix ratio is 24:1. It was 16:1 originally, but you can go 24:1 with modern marine oil such as TCW-3. You can make most of the gaskets for both those motors from gasket material from auto parts stores, except the head gasket. That might be problematic if one is shot. Check the thread "Awakening A Sleeping Outboard" on this forum for a plan on how to proceed.

 

[F_R]

Re: Seaking 5hp and 3hp old need help

Don't bother dinking around with the cork. Use a Mercury 1395-8983 (sierra 18-7208). Remove the spring from the end of it and drill through with a 3/32" bit for the float pin.

Your 3hp is a 1953 and the 5hp is a 1956.

3hp takes Lubriplate #105 Motor Assembly Grease. NAPA has it
5hp takes 80-90 weight outboard gear oil. Wal-Mart has it.

The coils are the OMC "Universal Magneto" type. Sierra 18-5181. iboats has them.

The pawl springs are available from OMC/BRP at an outrageous price. Make your own.

Many but not all parts on the 5hp are the same as Johnson/Evinrude 5-1/2hp models. Except for the recoil and magneto, the 3hp doesn't share much with J/E. Neither of your motors has a head gasket. That is just a water cover.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Seaking 5hp and 3hp old need help

By the way don't remove that end cover refered to by FR as it is nearly impossible to reattach correctly.

 

[SeaKing08]

Re: Seaking 5hp and 3hp old need help

Thanks guys! I was also wondering how to fill the lower unit with new grease? is there a upper unit that needs grease? I pland on getting as many parts tomorrow and trying to start her up. thanks. Oh what do you recomend for cleaning the gas tank? it seems to have some sludge.

 

[F_R]

Re: Seaking 5hp and 3hp old need help

There is no "upper unit", except of course for the powerhead which is lubed by the oil in the gas.

Basics for the lower unit are have the motor in normal upright position (5hp) or normal tilted-up position (3hp) and put the lube in the lower (drain) hole till it flows out the upper (vent) hole. Then, in the case of the one using oil put the vent screw back in before removing the filler from the bottom hole. That will air-lock it to keep the oil from gushing back out while reinstalling the lower screw. Not a problem with the one using Lubriplate. You can get a handy oil-pump type filler from Wally-World that makes it easier. DO NOT REMOVE the phillips head screw from the 5hp. That is not the drain screw!!

Everybody has their favorite potion for cleaning gas tanks. Some are hazardous and some are flamable and explosive. Some are expensive. Personally, I have cleaned a bazillion of them with plain old isopropyl rubbing alcohol from the grocery store. It works fine and won't blow up or set you afire or kill your lungs. Dump a bottle of it in the tank and add a handful of old nuts, BB's, or whatever, and shake it till your arms fall off. Rinse it out with plain tap water. Oh, did I mention, remove the filter fitting and plug the hole first.