Sealing a leaky tinny

[joblo33]

I have a 16' Aroliner aluminum from 1951 and it seems to have developped A LOT of leaks over the years. I've tried welding up holes in my 14' Springbok and have ruled that out as an option. How well does that Quick Aluminum stuff work? Does it stay on long. Also will rivets this old be bangable or do I have to drill them out and re-rivet. Any other suggestions? I leave it anchored at my cabin in the summer and without the bilge pump on with a floater switch it takes on about 6" of water over night.<br />Eric

 

[SeaMasterZ@aol.com]

Re: Sealing a leaky tinny

My buddy painted his tinny with rubberized pool paint and it hasnt leaked yet<br /><br />Fifty bucks a gallon is cheap too, compared to 35 for a quart of gluvit<br /><br />of course, his boat is an open aluminum boat, slopping the paint around was a matter of wash it out, rough it with some scotch brite and start painting, you probably have floors and such in the way

 

[BF]

Re: Sealing a leaky tinny

If you can get at the rivets, I'd try tightening them up. When I bought my beater 16' aluminum boat ('76 Naden, beat up enough that I think it was a camp boat) I had a bunch of patches welded on to fix the cracks, then I stuck it on a trailer and put about 8" of water in it. I marked leaks with black marker, then drained and flipped it over. If I could tighten the rivet I did, If I couldn't, I scotchbrighted the outside and put a glob of fast cure 5200 over the rivet. Makes a stylish white spot.<br /><br />There were some rivits (holding strakes on) that you can't really seal well from the outside so mine still weeps a wee bit. But if it's 1/2 warm out, it evaporates faster than the couple of weepy rivets let water in.<br /><br />Do not fiberglass over top of 'em. Previous owner had done that, still leaked, but left me with messy cleanup.