Sealing transom holes/crack

[wildcat99]

I just recently purchased a 2005 Stratos 180FS. Had it out twice and both times a couple gallons of water came out the drain when I pulled the plug or pumped out with the bilge.

After closer investigation, I found 3 low screws from a previous transducer that had not been sealed. Also found one of the swim ladder brackets had been tweaked so I removed it to straighten and found both brackets never had the screw holes sealed real well. I plan on using 3M 4200 on the brackets, screws and holes before replacing. That should seal any leaks in these spots.

There are also two cracks at the top of the transom near the metal trim cap. The motor is solid and I don't think this is a problem, but would like to seal these up myself if I can. Could I seal with 4200 smoothed in and over the cracks or use something else like Marine-Tex epoxy putty? Any other ideas?

Thanks for your help!

 

[cribber]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

Hard to tell from the pics you posted. Gel coat cracks can be smoothed over with 3M 4200 or 5200 to seal out moisture. If the fiberglass is cracked then it is likely the lower leg struck something and really flexed the transom. See if you can get some pictures more focused... hard to do in close quarters sometimes . I'm sure the experts will be along to offer advice.

 

[wildcat99]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

Yeah, the pictures aren't the greatest, I'll try to post better pics. The opposite side, where the bolt heads and washers are, is fine...no cracks. That's why I don't think it's a structural problem. I found an old post on the net where a guy had similar cracking on a new boat about 5yrs ago. Supposedly Stratos fixed it and it lasted awhile and cracked again. So the guy got his motor and trailer fastened to a new boat from Stratos.

I'm hoping this is somewhat common, but nothing to worry about.

 

[wildcat99]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

I'll post better pics tomorrow. What about this: http://www.pbsboatstore.com/g-flex-liquid-epoxy-resin.htm
or this: http://www.pbsboatstore.com/west-system-six-10.htm injected in the crack where I can and smoothed over the top? Then sand and use some type of flexible gelcoat to finish it off. Any thoughts?

As for prepping the area around the screw holes for the 4200, 3M recommends their General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner. Will mineral spirits work just as well here?

 

[wildcat99]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

Here are a couple of better pics...I couldn't get the left side to focus, but you get the idea. What would you do with it?
Thanks for any suggestions!

 

[mralex]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

hi, wildcat i have a question for you first before you are just covering up the cracks without finding out what the problem is first. the first thing that popped into my head is that those might be from water inside your transom that freezes and cracks the fiberglass. do you live in an area that this would occur?

just my 2 cents

take care

 

[wildcat99]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

mralex, very good point, freezing is a real possibility, the boat lived in Oklahoma before I got it.
But I have found the problems:

1. The swim ladder was factory original on this fish/ski boat and the brackets and screw holes were never sealed properly in my opinion. There was just a glob in the center, nothing on the screws or holes at all. In fact when I took off the brackets, water peed out one of the screw holes. There is a pocket back there that holds water and the only way I can see it draining is putting the boat on it's nose or shop-vac it out and I can guarantee the PO did neither.

2. Three lower screws on the opposite side from a previous transducer mount were not sealed either and peed out water when I removed them. Now that you mention it, I wonder if they were even sealed at all when the transducer was mounted? If so, they did a fantastic job of removing any trace of old sealant.

But, the only way I can see freezing causing cracks up that high on the transom is if the whole bilge area was filled with water, leaving no room for expansion, before winter storage. Could someone actually be that f******g stupid??? Maybe that's why I got such a good deal on this boat.

In reality, the boat's not going to sink or the motor fall off. I'll stop the leaks and will take any advice on repairing the cracks.

 

[Andy'sDelight]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

In reality, the boat's not going to sink or the motor fall off. I'll stop the leaks and will take any advice on repairing the cracks.

I don't want to ruin your day, but hearing that water pees out of holes in your transom tells me the whole thing is waterlogged and rotted. That long crack would lead me to believe that the PO hit bottom or ran over a large, solid object at high speeds. Just what it looks like to me. If either of those are the case you're liable to drop the motor off the back. Don't underestimate the amount of force an outboard puts on the transom when in use. My advice is to put your weight on the motor and see if the transom flexes anywhere. Your body weight is alot less stress on the transom than WOT by a country mile.

 

[BLU LUNCH]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

Wow the factory did not seal them right? So much for quality............

 

[wildcat99]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

OK after re-reading mralex post about water inside the transom freezing, i don't know. I thought you meant through the transom and freezing in the bilge area.

I don't know the cross section of the back end of fiberglass bass/fish/ski boats, but wouldn't the transom be solid not hollow? I'm pretty sure by 2005 Stratos was all composite, no wood, so I can't see anything being rotten.

I've had it at WOT both times out and no problems. I put my weight (~150#) on the motor (400#) and could bounce the whole boat and trailer, but no flexing the transom. I plan on using a shop vac inside the back end of the boat as far as I can reach, compressed air in and around the holes and let it set in the hot sun a few days before any repairs/sealing are done.

 

[commander315]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

OK after re-reading mralex post about water inside the transom freezing, i don't know. I thought you meant through the transom and freezing in the bilge area.

I don't know the cross section of the back end of fiberglass bass/fish/ski boats, but wouldn't the transom be solid not hollow? I'm pretty sure by 2005 Stratos was all composite, no wood, so I can't see anything being rotten.

I've had it at WOT both times out and no problems. I put my weight (~150#) on the motor (400#) and could bounce the whole boat and trailer, but no flexing the transom. I plan on using a shop vac inside the back end of the boat as far as I can reach, compressed air in and around the holes and let it set in the hot sun a few days before any repairs/sealing are done.

The cracks looks like cracks in the gelcoat from the stress of the engine..If its just a crack in the gelcoat its no big deal...just rub some silicone or 4200 over it.(OR even a gelcoat repair kit) If the glass is cracked, then that could a big issue. as for the holes, just shoot some 5200 in em.

 

[wildcat99]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

Another source for water in the bilge might be this shift boot especially when launching from the steep ramp. I'll reseal the flange/screws with 4200 and replace the zip tie, but are these boots actually supposed to be watertight?

Any more thoughts on DIY crack repair?
Thanks for your help

 

[commander315]

Re: Sealing transom holes/crack

Another source for water in the bilge might be this shift boot especially when launching from the steep ramp. I'll reseal the flange/screws with 4200 and replace the zip tie, but are these boots actually supposed to be watertight?

Any more thoughts on DIY crack repair?
Thanks for your help

yup, those probably should be watertight...i think (Crack repair ^^)