securing new transom?

[phil.leblanc]

I have a 1964 14 foot fiberglass boat (Brunswick Fury) with a 1964 Evinrude 40 hp which I fixed last year. This year it was the boat. I removed the roten floor, stringers and transom. Now how should I secure the new transom. I was planning on laminating two 3/4 plywoods.Then using resin to cover this. Is fiberglass on the outside and in the inside enough to secure this transom. I will put wood bracing inside (held in place with fiberglass) and sand the existing fiberglass to taper fit new fiberglass. I was going to go with 3 overlaping sheets of fiberglass on the outside.Overlaping to about 6". Is this enough or as someone suggested, should I put an aluminium strip around the outside and rivit this to the sides of the boat? The splash-well is intact and the aluminium edge that slips over the transom and splash well is good.

 

[DJ]

Re: securing new transom?

Phil,<br /><br />Your plan is a sound one. With 40 HP, I don't think you need the aluminum. <br /><br />Make sure the splashwell is tied to the transom.

 

[stuckondryland]

Re: securing new transom?

Hi, <br /> I had transom rot a few years ago which broke clean through the fiberglass exterior (by the motor). I used seacast to fix the problem. I fixed the broken fiberglass, cleaned out all the wood, set a form and poured in the mix. <br /><br /> While expensive ($300+), the results were amazing. I have a rock-solid transom that will never rot. Word of caution: If you are pouring between two fiberglass walls, follow directions to keep the walls in a fixed position. I did not and the walls bowed out slightly. My original fittings for hull drainage and live wells would no longer fit. <br /><br />Below is a link to their site. <br /><br />PS. cover the ground underneath as some epoxy will land on the ground (driveway) <br /><br />Good luck <br /> http://www.seawolfindustries.com/seacast.html

 

[Winger Ed.]

Re: securing new transom?

You're on the right track. <br /><br />Strength wise- 2 layers of 3/4" plywodd is all that's used on many boats that have a 200 hp. engine hanging on the back of them.<br /><br />I'd make sure the new boards are epoxy/glassed in real well up the sides and at the bottom where it joins the hull. The forces of the engine's thrust & weight will try to pull the top of the transom board off the back end of the hull, and push it in at the bottom edge.... both on the water, and even more so trailering it down a rough road. <br /><br />With a 40, you really don't need a heavy Alum. piece across the back. If it had a thin one originally to cover the top edge where the motor sits- I'd put it back on just to keep from having to mold in that much more glass as it comes up to the top there. Plus, it resists dinging up more so than the fiberglass.