seeking Hub replacement service for 50s pin drive props

[Jdunham]

Hello,
Forgive me if this is not quite the correct category, but as it is specific to props I thought this was the best fit.

I am looking for some shop suggestions for rehubbing service on several pin drive OMC props from the 50s and 60s.
I am located in Vermont so the closer the better, but as fewer and fewer shops offer this service I may have to take what I can get.
None of my local shops offer the service anymore.

At this point I have no pricing from anyone so I do not know if this service can be performed for less than the cost of a brand new prop. As far as I can tell, the props that I need serviced have age deteriorated rubber, not associated with a strike that may have caused damage. Micro cracking at the root is a concern but I have not seen evidence of that. I don't put many hours on my boat.

So, if you happen to have had this service done in the last few years or know of a shop that still does it, please let me know.

 

[jimmbo]

Just out of curiosity, what engines do these props fit on?

 

[Scott Danforth]

two prop services that I know are General Propeller in Bradenton Florida, and Green Bay Propeller in Suamico Wisconsin. both still do prop work.

 

[briangcc]

Shear pin drives by chance? Like on an old Big Twin Rude?

If so, going off memory, the props didn't have any rubber in them as it was the pin that was meant to shear to save the lower unit. And they did a heck of a job as I remember Dad and I changing quite a few of those after hitting stuff in the water.

I've used Pier Propeller Services in Tonawanda NY before. They may do repairs on the older props. Might check out Antique Boat Museum in Clayton NY to see who they use as there's a bunch of prop shops up in 1000 Islands area.

 

[Jdunham]

Jimmbo, the motors are a pair or 1956 evinrude fastwin 15s, a 1956 johnson 30, and a 1957 evinrude lark.

Briangss, these are pin drive props. There is a rubber bushing between the aluminum prop and the bronze sleeve that the pin seats in. This rubber is not supposed to be anything more than a shock absorber. It is not intended to slip, once it does it must be replaced.
The old ones could be pushed out and new bronze sleeves with bonded rubber bushing pressed back in. It has gotten very hard to find shops that still perform this service as there are a couple of special tools needed to to it properly.
More often than not, it is better to replace the prop, but these are classics in good shape that I would prefer to save.

 

[jimmbo]

My Dad had a 57 Big Twin 35hp, a cheaper version of your Lark.
The is also supposed to be a Thrust Washer., it is located between the Drive Pin and the Prop so the Pin and subsequently the Prop would be removable if the Prop were to slip backward on the Hub

On the Lark, and the 30, the Drive Pin is supposed to be Stainless Steel. It was not intended to Shear, I can't say about the 15s. Boaters who used Shear Pins on the Big Twins and Lark, were always replacing them as even shifting into gear at a fast Idle could shear them

The Rubber Hub was designed to cushion the Shock from shifting on the Clutch Dogs?gears. It also protected the Drivetrain,by slipping from damage on impacts, with the Prop still being the Sacrificial Lamb

Though it was not a One-Time use design. I will concede that the hub could be blown on a single impact though.

Most of those props are not too expensive these days, any in a Dealers Inventory are old, but not many are made these days.

 

[Texasmark]

Jimmbo, the motors are a pair or 1956 evinrude fastwin 15s, a 1956 johnson 30, and a 1957 evinrude lark.

It is not intended to slip, once it does it must be replaced.

Nope! The pin is actually a drive pin as it's a convenient method of locking a shaft to an object to be rotated and the brass/bronze socket embedded in the rubber was, as stated designed for connection to the pin. The rubber hub was designed to offer regular cushioning of shifting shocks encountered. which weren't of the intensity to effect a slip.

The other function of the rubber hub was to slip upon hitting a serious obstruction. The instruction manual of the engine, like my 1959 18 hp Evinrude Fastwin, instructed the operator that in the event of a slipping propeller, caused by a serious strike, cut the throttle, shift into N, shift back into F and continue on your journey. It is designed to slip and reseat.

Had it happen several times like when a lake is built and rather than removing old bridges with concrete railings, they just leave them and flood over them. I remember one engine I had, a 9.9, off white, McCullough as I recall....with a very noisy exhaust....wasn't buried in the propwash.....had at least 3 strikes causing slippage with no reseating problems.

 

[racerone]

Mercury promoted ---" shearproof drive "-----for quite some time.-------I believe that sold a lot of motors for CARL KIEKHEAFER and his company.-------He did not have to say that now if you hit something you have to buy a prop instead of a 19 cent pin.

 

[jimmbo]

Mercury promoted ---" shearproof drive "-----for quite some time.-------I believe that sold a lot of motors for CARL KIEKHEAFER and his company.-------He did not have to say that now if you hit something you have to buy a prop instead of a 19 cent pin.

Like this?

 

[Texasmark]

Mercury promoted ---" shearproof drive "-----for quite some time.-------I believe that sold a lot of motors for CARL KIEKHEAFER and his company.-------He did not have to say that now if you hit something you have to buy a prop instead of a 19 cent pin.

Exactly why I shop carefully to get a prop with the pressed in hub. Iboats sells both kinds.

 

[Texasmark]

Like this?

Looks like a submerged concrete bridge railing whack at WOT. History of your picture, and other damage to drive train?

 

[racerone]

Texasmark----Most props ----Mercury included had a rubber drive hub.-------Lately they have gone to plastic drive hubs that the owner can replace if they fail.-----Or high performance props that are solid and operated by folks who are perhaps not running their first boat.

 

[Texasmark]

Texasmark----Most props ----Mercury included had a rubber drive hub.-------Lately they have gone to plastic drive hubs that the owner can replace if they fail.-----Or high performance props that are solid and operated by folks who are perhaps not running their first boat.

I followed the evolution of the plastic hub and find that it has improved in it's ability to absorb the shifting shock and remain intact on serious whacks. I chose to buy props without it as it brought back the shear pin memories. Yes, Mercury props like my current 1st generation (square port) Laser II have rubber, pressed in hubs, as was the prop on my Wizard 25 (Merc. Mark 30 derivative for big box store...Western Auto) when I was a teen.

I fully realize that the plastic, removable hub was a marketing ploy to allow dealers and suppliers to fit one prop to numerous power plants...thus reducing inventory and expanding customer support.