Seized 1965 40hp Johnson

dafox99

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Team Johnson. Like a dummy, I let my '65 40hp sit for 2 1/2 years. Not my fault it sat .. here in Austin, due to drought, no ramps reached the lakes. Definitely my fault, I didn't pull the plugs and shoot oil in the cylinders, and turn it over now and then. It's froze solid. What I have tried:

1. 2' breakover bar with a 1 1/16 socket on the flywheel. with all my might.
2. seafoam penetrating oil in cylinders, leave engine tilted so oil sits against the rings, and then every day or so see #1 above.
3.. Coke in the cylinders. then see #1 above
4. Very cheap (electric) impact gun on said 1 1/16 nut
5. Tried to pull heads just now. All bolts out, pounded as hard as I was comfortable with rubber mallet, but they won't budge.

What I have NOT tried is hit the (new) starter to see if that will break it free. A bit afraid I'll booger flywheel teeth.

Thoughts?
 

racerone

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Remove the lower unit and see if it is the lower unit or the powerhead that is stuck.-------Drained the oil in the lower unit?------------Will the flywheel move back and forth even a little bit ?
 

Bosunsmate

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you will bugger/overheat the starter. try atv fluid
might need some heat and then a breaker bar
 

gm280

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I second the idea to remove the lower unit. It could be the power head is okay but the lower unit is frozen up, meaning rusted solid. But you won't know until they are separated...
 

dafox99

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Thanks, gang. So, I THINK this is the chinese-handcuffs spring propshaft-grabbing shifter (not two handle or push button control box). If memory serves, the pinion always spins, and turns the forward and reverse gears all the time, and when you engage the magnet, the springs grab the shaft. My prop shaft turns freely. Are you thinking the pinion, bearings, or forward/reverse gears are froze?
 

racerone

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????--------If a breaker bar will not spin it then the starter certainly won't do it.-----------Model # is ??----------------And does the flywheel move back and forth even a little bit.--------No answers = no help.
 

dafox99

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I'll get the model number for you guys. Flywheel does not budge a micro-inch
 

dafox99

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OK .. to follow up on your gents' idea, I pulled the top lower unit plug. Nadda. Tiled the motor a bit .. then a bit more. Still no oil coming out. Pulled lower plug. I'd say about 1/2 as much oil as I expected came out ... and looked emulsified to me (milky brown). So .. I'd say it was enough the gears have been sitting it in, but being emulsified, might have rusted them? No rust/red came out. pic attached. IMG_0805.JPG
 

racerone

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If flywheel will not budge even a little bit it usually means crankshaft bearings / lower unit bearings are rusted solid.---If pistons are stuck in the bores then flywheel usually moves a bit.------But you say it has been quite dry in your area so not likely the block / crankshaft is rusted up from condensation.
 

dafox99

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Makes sense. If rings, you'd think there'd be a little wrist pin slop. If lower unit bearings, you'd think it'd budge a bit just from some driveshaft twist. Betting crank bearings, but I'll drop the unit. I don't have a garage or shop. So, nowhere to tear it down, and little "want to" as it's too much time/effort to rebuild the powerhead. Afraid this one's headed to the heap.
 

dafox99

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For those who remain curious, I pulled the LU. BOTH are locked up. Engine won't budge, and I can't turn the driveshaft by hand. I don't have one of those sockets that fit the splines to put a ratchet on it, but, I think it should turn freely. Prop turns freely. Dang. I guess powerhead bearings and driveshaft bearings are locked up.
 

dafox99

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OK .. I was wrong. Put some vice grips on the driveshaft and it turned OK. Just impeller friction. LU is OK. But, powerhead still locked solid. I just can't envision rebuilding in my dining room.
 

Bosunsmate

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struth, i wouldnt of picked that after such a short period and that it sounds like you use a lake and not the salty sea. Shows the benefits of fogging oil. I think il check my LU this week, its winter here but the boat only sits a couple of months.
You could put a longer breaker bar on and big vice grips on the drive shaft but it isnt sounding good:violin:
 

dafox99

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OK, gang. Used motors are WAY expensive. Looks like I'm pulling the powerhead and going to re-build. Before I start, any idea if I'm going to be able to get all the parts I need? I'm going to have to rent/buy a flywheel puller and ring compressor. If the cylinders are scored, I guess I'll need to hone/bore or re-sleeve it? Any other special tools you might think I need? All input welcome.
 

racerone

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Many used parts and powerheads are available.---These motors are rugged and lots were built.---Post a wanted ad on---aomci----website.----Special ring compressors are available but fingers and a wee screwdriver work just fine too.
 
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dafox99

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Great! Thanks. will do (once I pull it off the boat and tear it down)
 
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