skippingtrout
Cadet
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2008
- Messages
- 18
When I was buying my 2002 18 CC Sea-Pro the previous owner did not know why the fuel gauge did not work, he suggested a fuse or something simple. Being and avid fisherman I can't believe I took the bait that quickly.
I'm a handy guy, I like to think I can fix anything but this gauge was a challenge. I almost resorted to a make shift dip stick. Based on my experience here are a few tips that may help if your gas milage suddenly improves beyond belief.
1. It's the sending unit. Check other stuff first because it's proper protocol but it's the sending unit.
2. Take the gauge out and touch the ends of a 9-volt battery to each post. If the needle moves the gauge is good, if not flip the battery around and try again. If the needle still does not move consider yourself lucky and go buy a new gauge, problem solved.
3. If the gauge is good (and I bet it is), use an ohm meeter and make sure you have continuity from the gauge post all the way to the sending unit, test both wires. If the wires are both good it's certainly the unit.
4. Before you open the tank REMOVE THE GAS. Best way, run the gas out. Siphoning, sucks I mean it really sucks. I tried to work on my unit without removing the gas. I puked from all the gas fumes and I could have blown me and my boat sky high. I finally, siphoned the gas into the tank of my wife's car, this took along time and much patience.
5. Had I emptied the tank first I wouldn't have had to cut a larger whole to get at the unit. When I opened the inspection cover inside my center console I was disappointed to find that I could see the unit but had no way to get at it. I figured that during assembly something shifted, so I cut the whole larger, a real pain. Once the tank was empty I found that the tank had just slid forward a couple inches, minus the gas I could easily move the empty plastic tank bank and forth.
6. If you have a WEMA gauge replace it with a WEMA gauge. I was in a hurry to replace the gauge and bought a cheap universal. The threads were different than the OEM WEMA, I almost cross threaded my tank. Once I understood the problem I removed the plastic seals from the new screws and carefully slid them onto my old WEMA screws and used them.
7. After I installed the new unit, I was concerned about leaks. I brushed a soapy solution around the new unit, I had a buddy watch for bubbles as I blew in the gas vent until I met the recommended leak test pressure of 3 psi. No leaks. Remember DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE UNIT. The number one reason dish washers and sending units leak is to much muscle during installation. Rubber seals will fail if over tightened.
That's all for now,
Skippingtrout
I'm a handy guy, I like to think I can fix anything but this gauge was a challenge. I almost resorted to a make shift dip stick. Based on my experience here are a few tips that may help if your gas milage suddenly improves beyond belief.
1. It's the sending unit. Check other stuff first because it's proper protocol but it's the sending unit.
2. Take the gauge out and touch the ends of a 9-volt battery to each post. If the needle moves the gauge is good, if not flip the battery around and try again. If the needle still does not move consider yourself lucky and go buy a new gauge, problem solved.
3. If the gauge is good (and I bet it is), use an ohm meeter and make sure you have continuity from the gauge post all the way to the sending unit, test both wires. If the wires are both good it's certainly the unit.
4. Before you open the tank REMOVE THE GAS. Best way, run the gas out. Siphoning, sucks I mean it really sucks. I tried to work on my unit without removing the gas. I puked from all the gas fumes and I could have blown me and my boat sky high. I finally, siphoned the gas into the tank of my wife's car, this took along time and much patience.
5. Had I emptied the tank first I wouldn't have had to cut a larger whole to get at the unit. When I opened the inspection cover inside my center console I was disappointed to find that I could see the unit but had no way to get at it. I figured that during assembly something shifted, so I cut the whole larger, a real pain. Once the tank was empty I found that the tank had just slid forward a couple inches, minus the gas I could easily move the empty plastic tank bank and forth.
6. If you have a WEMA gauge replace it with a WEMA gauge. I was in a hurry to replace the gauge and bought a cheap universal. The threads were different than the OEM WEMA, I almost cross threaded my tank. Once I understood the problem I removed the plastic seals from the new screws and carefully slid them onto my old WEMA screws and used them.
7. After I installed the new unit, I was concerned about leaks. I brushed a soapy solution around the new unit, I had a buddy watch for bubbles as I blew in the gas vent until I met the recommended leak test pressure of 3 psi. No leaks. Remember DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE UNIT. The number one reason dish washers and sending units leak is to much muscle during installation. Rubber seals will fail if over tightened.
That's all for now,
Skippingtrout