Separate electrical systems on boat (engine, trolling, house).

[PC on the Bayou]

Obviously, you have to have a separate electrical system on the boat for a 36V trolling motor vs. the 12V main electrical system of the boat.

In addition, I've seen it recommended and have used a separate small 12V battery to run my GPS Fish Finder to help eliminate interference. I'll call this my "house" system.

Having these separate electrical systems on the boat brings me to a couple questions where I would like to have some thoughts from others:

1. Should the grounds of each system be tied together (bonded)? Or, is this not strictly necessary.
2. Has anyone used a battery isolator to maintain the house battery charge from the boat alternator?

 

[dingbat]

Obviously, you have to have a separate electrical system on the boat for a 36V trolling motor vs. the 12V main electrical system of the boat.

In addition, I've seen it recommended and have used a separate small 12V battery to run my GPS Fish Finder to help eliminate interference. I'll call this my "house" system.

Having these separate electrical systems on the boat brings me to a couple questions where I would like to have some thoughts from others:

1. Should the grounds of each system be tied together (bonded)? Or, is this not strictly necessary.
2. Has anyone used a battery isolator to maintain the house battery charge from the boat alternator?

Nine out of ten times, it’s RF or EMI that interferes with electronics on a boat. Connecting the electronics a second battery will not resolve the issue. You have to find the root cause and fix the problem.

Fwiw: Trolling motors are notorious offenders either by poor design or the “power saver” circuitry

Grounds to both batteries are tied together to provided for a common ground plane

Blue Seas add a battery kit is what you want to install.