Shift Cable? ESA? Both? Other?

[Chris5280]

I have an 88 OMC 350 with an ongoing stall issue moving from Neutral to Forward or Reverse under load. It's not just that it stumbles and sometimes stalls. It is impossible to get the boat in gear, no matter how fast or "decisively" you shift before it just dies. The carb has been rebuilt, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, dwell, timing. No change. It runs and idles fine on muffs, around 700.

I thought maybe the ESA system was the culprit, so I tested that. The ESA bracket has both a shift interrupt microswitch (with the lever) and an overstroke microswitch - but the overstroke switch wires are snipped at the switch. I'm not sure if it came from the factory this way, or if the previous owner disabled the overstroke. In any case, it used to run fine without it, so I'll assume it's not necessary.

I've tested the interrupt on muffs in the driveway, and it never engages the switch despite being centered in the V (ow W). I understand that this is normal and that the tension on the shift cable when the prop is under load/in the water WILL engage the switch, but I don't have water conveniently located to drop the boat in and test right now. I've also tested the interrupt switch with a multimeter, and it is open normally but closes when the switch is engaged, so it seems to be operating correctly. Is there a chance that the ESA module itself could be faulty, or is this unlikely since the engine runs fine when not in gear and under load?

My thinking has shifted to the transom shift cable, so I've pulled that out and am waiting for a new cable and bellows to arrive. Since the interrupt lever centered perfectly with the old cable, though, I don't know if I'm headed down the wrong path.

Any advice? Is there any real way to test the ESA module itself? Is it possible that the shift cable is causing the stalling when attempting to shift into gear? I'm running out of patience with this boat...

 

[kenny nunez]

Where are the wires that should be connected to the over stroke switch?

 

[Lou C]

Only reason I can think of is if someone in the past changed the ESA to the later module which uses a timer and therefore the overstroke switch is no longer used but is still left in place.
I dont think I that’s the source of your problem, I’d think it’s likely either a sticky transom shift cable or a cruder up sticky bell crank in the pivot housing.

 

[kenny nunez]

How hard is the transom shift cable to pull and push? As Lou stated the drive should be pulled to inspect the shift linkage.

 

[Lou C]

If you are into doing the shift cable you really need to start with the shift rod height adjustment, then make sure the transom cable drag is no than 2.5 lbs, measured with a fish scale disconnected at both ends. The bell crank in the pivot housing has to be clean and not crudded up with deposits, this can happen if the gasket between the pivot and the drive leaks. Also there is a drain plug on the starboard side of the housing for that pocket where the bellcrank lives, make sure that it has the oring on it, if this leaks it can also let water in which will eventually cause stiff shifting. When I pull the drive I make sure the mating surfaces are clean. I pack the bell crank pocket with OMC triple guard grese. Then coat both sides of the gasket with OMC gasket sealer as well as the mating surfaces. I also coat the threads of those 3 drain plugs with the same sealer (two on the starboard side one on the port side). I know I'm doing well when I pull the drive next time and the grease is still blue and not getting milky looking. If you do these things you should wind up with a Cobra that shifts with 2 fingers.

 

[devildog06]

i am gonna be following i have started to have a similar problem with mine this weekend.... sometimes it stalls sometimes it does not

 

[Chris5280]

Kenny, I don't know where those wires are. My understanding is that they're usually wired in sequence, but the connector from the interrupter just has two pins (and only 2 female sides, too) so it doesn't appear that the overstroke was ever wired in, unless someone completely redid the wiring harness, too.

I didn't find the lower shift cable difficult to pull, but I didn't measure the cable drag before tearing into it. I've already pulled the drive and in doing so discovered a tear in the u-joint bellows, so there was water at least in that area. There was some crud down by the bell crank, but it was all pretty light and flaky and didn't seem to be preventing the bell crank from moving smoothly and easily. I've cleaned that up and greased it lightly- you're suggesting that I pack that whole cavity with grease?

My shift cable should be arriving today, so I'll go ahead and work on installing. I don't know whether it comes with the adjustment tool, so I'll likely be doing this with a ruler and triangle. I don't suppose anyone knows of a DIY with photos, or better yet a video of the adjustment process? (I've watched a dozen on Youtube, but none doing it the old fashioned way...) I've read the Hastings process but it's a bit hard to follow as a newbie without photos.

 

[kenny nunez]

How does the gimbal bearing feel? Any time water gets in the bellows it usually ruins the bearing. When you grease the universal joints watch if any water is forced out. Just lightly coat the area of the shift cavity with grease. Your ESA unit may have been up dated at one time and the over stroke switch is no longer needed. If there are no wires attached then that is what may happened.