shift cutout switch roller doesn't return to center when in reverse

[JackBronson]

Hello,
Mercruiser MCM 230 with Alpha One. Don't know how old the shift cables are. Engine stalls shifting into reverse. Went thorough the cable adjust process very carefully (I think) using both the manual and the excellent YouTube video from Chris. The result I get is the shift cutout switch roller doesn't return to the centered position when the control is moved to reverse. Its in the full cutout position. Photos of shift assembly in reverse attached.

The cutout was fairly grimy so I blasted it with electric parts cleaner. Still no luck.

this is my question: is there an additional adjustment that maybe I missed, or am I stuck doing the dreaded shift cable replacement project?

thanks.

 

[dubs283]

am I stuck doing the dreaded shift cable replacement project?

yep, and a shift cable replacement is not a bad job at all

the "grime" on the switch is actually a wax grease from the factory to prevent corrosion

 

[NHGuy]

Yup, and if the cable wasn't as slick as can be it needs to go. When your drive is in either forward or reverse the shift cutout should be down in the V. It only pops out of there while attempting neutral, it should return to the bottom of the V as soon as the drive pops out of gear.

 

[JackBronson]

So to confirm we are talking about the cable from the engine to the drive?

anyone else out there with a different conclusion? Wouldn't mind a few opinions before I start tearing into this.

thanks!

 

[NHGuy]

When adjusting the cable and you had it free from the shift plate did it move hard or easy? If easy, redo your adjustment, you must have made an error. If it was at all balky or stiff replace it. There's no way to get a good result with a sticking cable.

 

[achris]

Just one point, and I think I did mention it in the video. If the engine is not running when you shift there is a chance (about 50/50) that the dog clutch will try and engage on the high points. That would cause the switch to stay off centre. You need to either have the engine running (sometimes not practical) or have some one else turn the prop in the opposite direction to the gear you are selecting. So if you're trying to select reverse, have your helper turn the prop in the forward direction, CW. As the dogs slide together this will ensure that engage fully....

Chris.......

 

[JackBronson]

OK good feedback guys. I'll check those things out tomorrow.

would like to clarify one thing: if the trouble is with the cable, we are talking about the engine to drive cable, right?

thanks.

 

[dubs283]

if the trouble is with the cable, we are talking about the engine to drive cable, right?

yes

 

[Bt Doctur]

Yes, the lower shift cable.

 

[JackBronson]

Update: on Chris' suggestion had someone spin the prop both ways while shifting forward and reverse. In reverse the cutout switch roller moves closer to the center position but is out enough that its not right. For NHGuy's suggestion I disconnected the cable and it does not move easily. Its got some resistance to movement.

man, it's June 8, sunny and near 80 for the first time this year and now I gotta change the shift cable?? Oh, I'm also traveling 9 of the next 17 days for work. Perfect. See you on the water for the 4th...

thanks for the help everyone.

 

[JackBronson]

OK finally got to pulling off the sterndrive. Thought I'd be cute and leave the oil in it since I just filled it. Had to really struggle to get the drive off. Now I see that there is gear oil in the bellows. Did this happen because I took the drive off with oil in it? If not, what gasket or whatever would fail and allow oil into the bellows?

 

[Bt Doctur]

~~Now I see that there is gear oil in the bellows. Did this happen because I took the drive off with oil in it?
No, the gear oil is leaking pout of the yoke seal and the yoke may have a groove in it. Not a big deal to fix.
luckily for found it now and not after the drive self-destructed from lack of oil.

 

[achris]

Oil in the bellows can only come from one place, the front seal... You need to strip the top box and replace that seal... Have a read of THIS... (Scroll down to the 5th post)

 

[JackBronson]

K so the replace the shift cable project opened the can of worms. Dropped off the out drive and a blank check at a local marine service place and told them replace the seal and call me with the other stuff they'll inevitably find. May as well make it right.

​anyway, now I'm looking at the shift shaft and just KNOW those bearings have to be junk. I was able to remove the upper shift shaft lever screw. my question is this: is that all that is required to get the upper shift shaft lever off of the upper shift shaft? must I do anything with the screw that is on top of the lever and appears to screw down into the upper shift shaft?

 

[JackBronson]

Anybody?

 

[achris]

Just pull the screw all the way out. It's not a clamping grub screw, it has a shaft that goes all the way though the top of the upper shift shaft.... Once you have the screw out, just put a screwdriver in under the lever and GENTLY lift the lever up and off the upper shift shaft.. Be aware there is also a nylon washer under the lever, try not to damage it....

 

[JackBronson]

Thought I would close this thread with the final resolutions.

I replaced the cable and what a difference. Took care of the shifting into reverse issue, however after about 8 days of boating (with tubing and skiing, so a lot of shifting) it got hard to go into forward gear. I'm thinking the cable must stretch some, so I ran through the entire cable adjust process. I'm going to post a new post because I'm curious about the sound my drive is making, but I think its a different issue than this particular one. Replacing the cable solved the issue that is this thread.

I also had the stern drive pressure tested and it was fine. Not sure where the oil in the bellows came from, but I've changed the drive oil again and am watching it and will have it professionally evaluated when the season ends in 3 or 4 weeks. With the kids schedules I figure I've got at most 5 more days of boating left and don't want to have the boat out of order.

Thanks to everyone who helped on this issue.

 

[Bt Doctur]

It`s called a "rotating leak" ,not changing/inspecting the yoke for a groove will lead to drive failure from low oil. Depending on how the cable was routed it may have suffered heat damage from the exaust pipe. Did the motor run hot?

 

[JackBronson]

I've had the boat three seasons, have never had it run hot on me in that time (and I've got an external water temp gauge that replaced the original). Currently I think the cable is fine. Based on feedback to another active post I have, I think that what I think is an issue (the sound associated with the drive engaging) may actually not be an issue (because there is no resistance on the prop as the boat is on the trailer).

so, the groove in the shaft would NOT be revealed during a pressure test?

 

[JackBronson]

I've had the boat three seasons, have never had it run hot on me in that time (and I've got an external water temp gauge that replaced the original). Currently I think the cable is fine. Based on feedback to another active post I have, I think that what I think is an issue (the sound associated with the drive engaging) may actually not be an issue (because there is no resistance on the prop as the boat is on the trailer).

so, the groove in the shaft would NOT be revealed during a pressure test?