Shift linkage

oxmax360

Seaman
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Messages
61
Hi all waiting on my lower unit to come in, while I am waiting just cant help but to wonder if any one knows how to adjust the shift linkage, if any does please post step by step how to, 1989 125 force, thanks
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,072
Re: Shift linkage

The lower HAS to be on for the adjustments.
Set the idle to 1100.You will have to adjust it to 750-800 after it's in the water.
SAFETY!!!TURN OFF THE MOTOR!!!!UNHOOK THE BATTERY!!!
I unhook both shifter and throttle.
Then I turn the prop with my foot and shift by hand ,F-N-R F-N-R
Stopping in neutral both times.
Then leave it in neutral and align the connector for the shift.
The throttle.It should have a little bit of tension on it when it's hooked up.
Find neutral,then adjust the connector so its almost on the post.
Then pull on the connector and put it on the post.
The tension is needed to bring the rpm's down to idle level every time.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Shift linkage

102_6679.jpg102_6509.jpg102_6508.jpg102_6458.jpg101_0234.jpg

For three and four cylinder engines prior to Mercury lower units: As jerry said: The lower unit must be on to adjust shift linkage.

I like to screw the lower shift rod all the way in, then back it out only far enough to line up the hole with the hole in the coupler. Insert the pin and put in a new (very small) cotter to retain it. The only exception to this is the early 90s lower units with a bellows seal on the lower shift rod. These must have the shift rod screwed out four turns from seated.

Adjustment is under the bottom carb . There will be two nuts on the interlock plate: One above and one below. They can vary in size from 1/2 to 9/16.

SO: First you check for engagement in both forward and reverse with free spinning in neutral. IF it NEEDS adjustment, forward is down so you would adjust both nuts upward, thereby lowering the shift rod to increase forward travel. Do it in small increments until the lower unit locks positively in each gear and spins freely in neutral.

Since the drive dogs have "ramps" to ease engagement, you can check by spinning the prop forward while in forward gear. If the lower unit locks positively, there is enough engagement. If it ramps up over the dogs and drops back with a clicking sound, then you need more forward travel. Since forward gear gets the most load and wear, it is good to bias the shift SLIGHTLY toward forward. Best case is to have the dog clutch just bearing against the gear while in forward. There is space between the drive dogs where the prop will spin freely while in gear. Too much engagement CAN be felt as a slight drag and a very slight sound as the prop is turned between drive dogs.

Do NOT adjust in too much travel in either direction. For example: Too much forward throw will lessen engagement of reverse dogs and possibly eliminate it . It will also put undue load on the shifter saddle (brass) causing premature wear.

The photos show the upper shift rod with the match plate and engine block removed, the brass shifter saddle, the relation of the reverse gear where you can clearly see the ramps on the dog clutch, a gear with drive dogs and ramps, and finally, an assembled gear pack. This pack is from a 2 piece lower unit and is in reverse.
 

oxmax360

Seaman
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Messages
61
Re: Shift linkage

Thanks Frank & Jerry with you guys as a guide I think I could do any repair needed.
 
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