Shift Rod Connector

[mbrownone]

Getting ready to remove the powerhead to my 1986 Evinrude 90hp outboard. The last component from the OEM manual says to remove the shift rod connector. The photo in the manual shows a clip needing to be removed for the shift rod to become loose. However, do I need to completely remove the rod itself too? The screw on the opposite side of the rod from where the clip is located is difficult to get to; much less to loosen it. I don't want to damage the shift mechanism for sure, so I am looking for some advice before removing the block. Has anyone done this before who can help me? Thanks.

Here are a couple of pics. Might be tough to see, but the shift rod is in the center of the photos.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: Shift Rod Connector

Just pull the clip and push the lever in and it should make the gear shift lever from the LU come loose. If not move the shift rod lever (the thing on the far right of your photo that connects with the shift rod from the LU) a bit to port with a screw driver until it does
Why are you lifting the powerhead?

 

[mbrownone]

Re: Shift Rod Connector

Removing powerhead to bore the cylinders and correct low compression (scored cylinder). Been dismantling/labeling/taking pictures/etc. for a couple evenings so far. The shift rod is definitely loose now and slides back and forth. I will start to raise the block off later today or tomorrow. But before I do, does the shift lever in the photo stay attached to the block or do I completely remove it?? The part that slides into the sleeve...it looks like it can stay put as long as it is loose from the internal connector (??) thanks for your reply

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: Shift Rod Connector

So long as the shift rod from the LU has come loose and is not still attached to the thing on the right it will be fine. You should be able to look under the carb and see the shift rod shaft from the LU standing up free
The lever in the photo will stay attached to the block during lifting

Was it the lower starboard cyl that scored by any chance?

 

[mbrownone]

Re: Shift Rod Connector

Sure is; #3 cylinder. You sound like you had a similar problem in the past? If so, any thoughts as to why the carb messes up that side? I don't think its the VRO pump, but I premix 50:1 on my other 2 strokes and may do the same in this case. Eliminates any lubrication problems if I regularly clean/inspect the carbs.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: Shift Rod Connector

yes a very similar problem. I have no idea what caused it. It went through three hands before it got to me.
I didnt noticed anything that made that side more susceptible to problems. However carefully check the bypass port lines that go from the bypass ports to the outlets under/over the carbs as if they wear a hole in themselves it will run lean on that cylinder.
i think they didnt change the impeller for a long time but why the bottom piston blew and not the top im not sure on.

I took a couple of clips off the poppet valve springs so that they will open earlier and i strongly advocate giving the heads a shave as per factory manual- head on emery paper on a piece of glass.

Also give the flywheel a little lateral push/pull and see how much play there is. It has double roller bearings up the top which give a bit of play over time which is quite common and shouldnt give you a problem unless its moving quite a lot. Any up and down movement is the lower bearing moving and that will need replacing.

Its good to check the lateral play on the top one before you dismantle as if you find it only after rebuilding you may think you didnt rebuild it correctly. Even with the centre bearings, i think there are four of them, the top bearings seem to often allow a hairbreath of play, starboard/port not fore/aft.
You shouldnt see any play, just feel and hear in the engine a tiny movement as you push/pull on the flywheel.
I suppose it reduces as the engine heats up