Shifting into forward/reverse issue

[MASTER Brian]

My 86 Ranger sat for last year and half because I needed to replace the midshaft exhaust gasket. I finally completed that and the boat wasn't idling well, so I ran out to a marine shop at the lake....5hrs away. Don't trust local shop anymore and this one is by my cabin.

He checked everything and got the boat to fire right up and idle nicely, BUT in doing so the prop started spinning while in neutral at higher rpms. He went ahead and adjusted the lower linkage on my E-XP 150. The boat stopped the grinding sound that was slightly there when going into gear and ago seemed well until......

I left and headed to the water a while later. I put the boat in, she fired right up, idled as well as she has in long time and went right into reverse with no issue, but when I tried to go into forward, the motor just revved. I backed up to the courtesy dock, pulled the cover and noticed, he forgot tutti screw the clamp for cable, didn't seem to move as was still in position. I secured the clamp and with boat off I checked the prop to see when it locked prop in. Both reverse and forward seemed to be more into the throttle position than I recall and the motor revs a bunch before out snaps into gear. More so in forward than reverse.

He mentioned maybe adjusting the idle cam? if it idled too high or low when in water, but idle seems great. He also mentioned the shift dog might be wearing out, but after he was happy with play on land, he seemed to say maybe just replace the cable and the controls at some point as neither are real expensive and those cables stretch over time.

I don't recall this ever before, but it did seem to clunk into gear, nothing bad, just a quick clunk sound, which I've heard on many older outboards.

I'm wondering if a cable might be answer, if that shift dog is bad and how difficult if job that is. I'm also curious if the throttle cable might have gotten out of whack when I pulled PH to replace the gasket. I wss careful, but can't rule out a slight turn of the adjuster, apparently the shift adjust got moved a little.

It seems like instead of going forward right out of idle, 800-1000rpms, it takes until about 2000rpms to engage the prop.

Where would one start ? I would have stopped back, but it was the next morning when we got out and he said he wouldn't be in long that day. He did the other repairs while I waited the day before and I think he was just in shop finishing some stuff up on a slow day.

 

[racerone]

Was the shift rod turned at any time , yes or no ?---Was the shift rod height set , yes or no ?------The prop turning in neutral can be due to oil drag and different bearings on reverse and forward gears !----Get this sorted out before big $$$$ damage occurs.

 

[MASTER Brian]

The shift rod was never turned. I did drop the lower unit to change the water pump as well, but I was very very careful not to turn the rod. I rebuilt the PH a dozen years ago and couldn't get the siding sorted out, so I took to a shop. It was perfect when I got it back. I plan on figuring this out.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Shift problems as you mention... and as racerone suggests... can and usually does result in a large $$$ outlay... "Unless" and regardless of what one thinks... that the lower unit is dropped and the measurement from the top surface of the lower unit to the center of the shift rod hole is checked to be exactly as it should be +/- 1/32".

Have the shift cable disconnected when re-installing the lower unit... and make sure that the unit shift properly just by spinning the prop and using the engines shift linkage.

Then...... attach and adjust the shift cable as needed in neutral.

 

[MASTER Brian]

If a dozen years ago when I rebuilt, I had the shift rod checked and measured and all has been fine UNTIL this trip and possibly? the last, when boat just didn't want to idle, would you worry about the shift rod height?

When I replaced the mid section to power head gasket that rod did NOT get turned. I used a host to lift the PH up, replaced the gasket and set it back down. When I did the water pump, I dropped the lower unit and insured it did not turn the least as well.

I get what is being said about the rod height, but it seems is run the risk of having it turn the more it's dropped.

The prior trip, maiden trip after gasket replace and water pump, the boat was tough to start, fast idle only and it wouldn't idle, BUT shifting didn't seem to be off. It only seemed off after being messed with. That said there isn't any real clunk now, just a higher rev. Is there any chance that could be in the throttle cable adjustment?

​​​​​I will look into everything mentioned above and I'm reading up on how to properly adjust the linkages. I'm just trying to fully understand how all the pieces work.

 

[oldboat1]

As Joe R. mentions, determine whether shifting is normal using only the linkage at the motor. If shifting is normal, adjust and reattach the remote cable to match the motor linkage. Then retest using the remote lever.

I usually adjust and reattach at the neutral detent, with the motor idling in the test tank or in the lake. Then test to make sure the throw is correct in forward and neutral. Snap it into gear quickly.

There may be other more sophisticated problems, but test the simple stuff first.

 

[MASTER Brian]

I'll check this tomorrow, I hope. I brought my manuals in to look at when I get a chance. What about the throttle cable, is there any trick to adjusting that?

 

[oldboat1]

no tricks. Just move the adjustment wheel one way or the other as needed.

 

[MASTER Brian]

Got a chance to go out and check things. With motor off I get a good solid engage in forward, reverse and neutral. I'll fire it on hose and see as soon as I get a chance.