Shortened a RXL10C with 40352d parts.

tootallofwa

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 20, 2010
Messages
177
Yeah! It worked!!!

The 40352d (63' 40hp Evinrude Big twin) with a bad piston became a parts motor for my RXL10C (62' 28hp Johnson Long shaft.)

The part no for the shift rod was the same for both short versions of each but the drive shafts had different numbers.

I had hoped I could just swap lower units... No way... Totally different foot print, impeller housings wouldn't swap... CR@P!!!

Drive shafts looked the same except the big twin had an impeller key and the 28hp has a pin.

Oh! that's because the impellers are different thicknesses.

What I did was file the top of the key so It was flush with the top of the smaller impeller and flush with the drive shaft so it would clear the impeller housing.

OK, I didn't consider the impeller seal till after I put it back together. Nor did I replace any seals. I think the seal sets well above the key way.

I had a hell of a time getting the drive shaft out of the big twin. To get it out I had to take out the pinion gear and of course the roller bearings fell out. Had to drive it out from the bottom with a wooden hammer handle. Munched the hammer and some piece of a seals spring that had wedged it in, fell out. Well that gear housing needs new stuff if it ever goes back in service.

I put it back together without the extension parts, put new lube in and it seems fine.

It was my first time inside a gear housing and it took me a couple tries to get the shift dog just right. What a mess, gear lube is sticky and stinky.

It took me all afternoon to do the swap, spilled and mopped up a pint of goo but it worked!!!:D:D:D
 

tootallofwa

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 20, 2010
Messages
177
Re: Shortened a RXL10C with 40352d parts.

So... I had a problem getting it to shift all the way into forward...

I set out to synchronize it and verify the throttle worked properly. I found that I couldn't get it above half throttle because the shift linkage on the power head wouldn't go all the way into forward. It was getting stuck on the stator cam. Ahh! so that's where the neutral safety switch is.

I fussed with the lever behind the fuel pump awhile until I discovered it was the shift rod causing the problem. I just loosened/tightened the clamp again in the midsection and was able to get it in gear properly.

The synchronization made a big difference. I pulled out the high speed needle to look for gunk and decided the carb didn't need cleaning.

It was hard to start like it was starving for fuel for awhile so I got out an unlit propane torch to fuel it at the carb (as suggested on some thread somewhere.) That got it to cough and finally start.

I tinkered with the needle settings and it was soon running better than I had heard it before.

I'm am so stoked!!! As soon as the weather clears, I'm taking it to the lake for a real test.
 
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