Silent choice wont operate.

cableguy1979

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I have a 1996 crownline 454 mag with Silent choice exhaust and I cant find a wiring diagram. When I hit the switch it lights up but the silent choice actuators do nothing. The exhaust stays close to thru hull. I can manually pull them open but i want the button to work. The guy I bought the boat told me the breaker kept popping on this and all that needed to be done was to push the button but that didnt work. Ive tried tracing the wires but they are in the harness. I have the manual 16 but it only has troubleshooting for air pump style and not electric which i have. I feel like there may be a fuse somewhere Im missing but without a diagram I cant hardly troubleshoot it or tell where a fuse may be.
 

Scott Danforth

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actuators may be toast.

how many wires do you have to each actuator?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... So jumper 'em, 'n see whether they work,.....
 

cableguy1979

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Maybe this is my problem. My solenoids only have 2 wires! One of them have a 3rd wire that is on the accessories post of the solenoid. I assumed that was for a amp for speakers and it got cut so my question is where does it go? This is why i need a schematic of the mercruiser system with electric actuated exhaust so i can fix this thing. I don't see another cut wire for it to go to. Ill take a look at the other side and see if it has three wires or not but I do know neither work.
 

alldodge

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Guess I don't know what you have then, always thought Merc didn't make silent choice and it was made by Corsa. Wonder if this is something that was modified. Can you post a pic of what you have?
 

Scott Danforth

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exhaust and diverters is added by the boat company. Corsa is the go-to company that boat manufacturers use. Silent Choice is Mercruisers name for the Captains Call (Corsas name) exhaust. either way, the actuators are corsa

Agree with AllDodge, post a pic
 

cableguy1979

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I called corsa and they sent me the wiring diagram. Basically it's a cascading actuation system. One solenoid has two wire and the second one has 3 wires. If one solenoid goes bad or has a bad connection it can cause them both to not work. I'll test it this week to see what's going on. Kinda complex with each solenoid having its own relay and one works of the other. On top of that one relay is wired backkwards...still works just not the same on both relays. I believe I know where the relays are since I dont see any more. There are 4 relays where the connectors and fuses are. I know one is the fuel pump.
 

cableguy1979

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Found the problem. This breaker has no continuity. I can jump it and both actuators work. I have ordered a new one but will be a week or so till it comes in. Anyone got any ideas how I can jump the wires and keep them protected? Thinking of a 10 amp fuse and rigging it up. Anyone got a better idea?
 

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alldodge

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You could use a 10 amp fuse, but if it blows go up to a 15 amp but no higher. Breakers can take a surge without tripping, but a fuse will just blow
 

cableguy1979

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Well the fuse idea didn't work. It blew a 15 amp fuse immediately while both actuators was in the upward traveling motion. I decided to try a 20 amp fuse. It lasted 5 to 10 second but then blew that fuse. So what can cause this system to pull so many amps to the point it blows a 20 amp fuse? Are the Actuators bad?

There is a fuse missing under the steering column that is labeled HD EXH. No fuse in it but there is a wire on that block post. Any clue what this could be?
 

scoflaw

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I have the old 4 wire CC on my boat, came with a 20 amp breaker. This system pulls a sh-- ton of amps when first activated. After the first couple of seconds it switches to the hold solenoid which draws less. but still noticeable on my volt gauge
 

cableguy1979

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maybe thats why they use the thermal breaker because t takes a minute to switch. The thermal breaker has to heat up but the fuse will blow immediately. My part should be in sometime early next week.
 

scoflaw

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Doesn't take a minute, it takes 2 seconds to switch, it's part of the testing procedure
 

cableguy1979

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Here is something I find odd I have to figure out and MAY be why one wire was cut. This is the wiring diagram i have from Corsa. My actuators are 3 wire but both my actuators have a AUX port. One of the actuators had the AUX cable cut. interesting enough the wires on that side have the quick connect cut and all three wires were spliced. Maybe that side doesnt need the AUX wire and it in fact goes somewhere else.
 

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