Six Tidy Shift Question

[cjflanagan]

<br /><br />1. If switch "D" is pressed in, should the engine be running? <br /><br />2. If the roller reached position "A" or "C" should the engine be running**? <br /><br />3. Should the roller ever reach "A" or "C"**?<br /><br />4. If the shift is in neutral is it in position "B" or just below "B"?<br /><br />5. I understand the engine should "stumble" if shifted from Forward to Reverse, But what about Reverse to Forward?<br /><br />6. Scenario - Engine is running, shift is in neutral. Shift is moved to forward, or reverse. Should engine stumble?<br /><br />I think that all these questions are yes/no except for possibly #4. <br /><br />**For clarity, positions "A" and "C" refer to positions up and outside of the notch who's midpoint is represented by "B"

 

[tommays]

Re: Six Tidy Shift Question

1 NO<br />2 NO<br />3 Yes it lets the drive come OUT of gear<br />4 B<br />5 both but its really fast if working correctly<br />6 NO <br /><br />If its merc it sound like a bad lower shift cable <br /><br /><br />tommays

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Six Tidy Shift Question

No - just making adjustments post re-power, pre-lake trials. So basically, in the notch motor runs, out of notch the opposite. Got it. Follow up question:<br /><br />If roller moves to "A" or "C" is it supposed to snap back quickly to "B"? That's my quandary. Because if "D" is pushed in, the engine should stop. Right now if I go into reverse roller goes to "A" and stays there. <br /><br />Some of this may seem painfully obvious to you, but the part I am leaving out is that this is all happening with a continuity meter, not with the engine running as I have not been through proper break in yet.<br /><br />I want this to be adjusted so that when I go to do break in the fundamentals are working right.

 

[Don S]

Re: Six Tidy Shift Question

Basically the shift interrupt system only works when coming out of gear when in the water. All it does is causes the engine to stumble or misfire just enough so the reverse cut shift dogs in the lower will release, as soon as they release, the shift interrupt swich Y arm should go back to your B position.<br />Nothing should be happening when on muffs, there isn't any back pressure.<br />It also should be working when going into gear.<br />On Mercruiser it will kill the igniton completely, OMC has an ESA system to only kill a few cylinders. If the switch is activating and staying activated, then either the cable or shift shafts are binding and not allowing the interrupt system to work smoothly. It usually a shift cable problem as tom mentioned. Rather OMC or Merc.

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Six Tidy Shift Question

Ok- respectfully Don, please read my posts carefully, I try very hard to be clear for you as a reader so that I don't waste you're time. Again - I'm not running on muffs or in the water - I am trying to do this prior to running the engine (fresh re-power) with two people and a continuity meter. I've been following the instructions on adjustments from Murcruiser (which are a tad "sketchy"). <br /><br />I'm doing it this way because when I do go into the water, I want to be 100 percent focused on the new engine break-in activities not messing around with distractions. Perhaps my hopes of getting this linkage dialed in perfect prior to my hitting the water is just not feasible because of the need for back pressure as you mentioned. Is that what you are saying? If so I can respect that. Perhaps you guys are recommending that I just get the adjustments close, and do final "phase two" adjustments after engine break in, and in while in the drink. <br /><br />Finally (as usual you get me wondering), I have verified proper 'tightness' on the lower shift cable (less than half of the 9/16ths tolerance); I have 6" travel (hole to hole) on the remote shift cable; and the pressure required to move the shift cable falls well into the 15 pound tolerance too. Is my cable ok?<br /><br />As always,<br /><br />Thanks for your help

 

[Don S]

Re: Six Tidy Shift Question

First of all, you posted while I was typing, and in your first post it didn't mention if you was in the water or not.<br />Second, if you adjust it by-the-book, it should work fine. There is no way to start checking it with the engine not running.<br />After you get it running, start the engine (On Muffs) and check the shifting. There is nothing wrong with running an engine for a few minutes to check things out prior to breakin.<br /><br />

I want to be 100 percent focused on the new engine break-in activities not messing around with distractions.

The procedure is not rocket science, and doesn't requier 100% focus above all else.