SkipJack 24 with a Penta AQ271C and a bent prop

[Darryl_Lict]

Hi: I'm new to these forums and have inherited a boat. The first time I took it out I managed to bend the prop, which I sent to be refurbed. The prop is counter rotating and unfortunately, I already shipped it off so
I can't take pictures or check for model numbers.. Do I have to provide more info to know what type I need? I think I'll just suck down the cost of the refurb and with this knowledge, maybe I'll just replace it in the future.

I have a retired boat mechanic acquaintance who has been helping me out, but he doesn't seem much concerned about costs. He borrowed a home brew huge socket to remove the propeller nut and since I've had to do this so many times, I was wondering if there is an appropriate tool I can buy to serve this purpose. When the props come back, I'll take more pictures.

Thanks

 

[Scott Danforth]

your 1988 AQ271C was paired with a VP290DP drive, unless its a late 271C, then it may have the A1 drive (same drive, different cap on the gear box)

the appropriate tool is a volvo penta AQ series prop wrench, or a 13mm socket to loosten the prop nut lock bolt and a screw driver to stick in the slot to spin the prop nut off.

then you take the screw driver, open the tangs on the second nut, and gently tap with a screw driver to unscrew.

you need to remove your props every year and grease the splines

your drive uses the B series (aluminum) props or C series (stainless)

not sure on your exact boat, however i would assume a B4 set of props, however maybe B3. If I recall, the '88 skipjacks were heavy.

not sure where you are, however the best place I found to get AQ series props re-done is General Propeller in Bradenton Florida. they are one of the very few prop shops that still re-hub props.

 

[Darryl_Lict]

Hey Scott, thanks for all the info and the quick response. What does the B3 and B4 mean? The mechanic was saying that I might be able to pick up some used stainless steel propellers. Are stainless better? Should I just try to get the same exact ones? If you ding up the propeller, is it possible to eyeball straightening it out? My local propeller guy is pretty expensive. My mechanic friend says that you really have to have a pro balance it or else you get bad power.

 

[Scott Danforth]

get the exact same ones. OEMs and Volvo did a dang good job originally getting the best props. a good set of C series props will be $800 used or about $1500 new. the B series alone are $600 for new and about $450 used.

volvo DP props come in a series. each drive uses props from a series. diesels with the AQ290DP drives used the A series.

the gasoline motors with the AQ 290 DP drives used the B and C series

later motors with later DP drives used later series.

for the B series, they go from B1 to B8. a tug boat or heavy trawler or houseboat would use a B1 or B2. heavy cuddy cabins or pocket cruisers would use B3 or B4. my boat was a bit lighter and I used B5s and after adding power to the small block, B6's. now after going Big block, pretty sure I will be running B7 or B8's


read this https://www.volvopenta.com/content/...r-owners/parts/propellers/Propeller Guide.pdf

the cost of a prop new is about $300-325. the cost to re-hub is about $100. the cost to re-weld blades and true up is about $100.

No, it is not possible to "eyeball" a prop.

also, with the DP 290's you want to clock your props so that the blade on the forward prop is vertical up, and the aft prop is vertical down to minimize cavitation (prop burn)

I carry a spare set of props with me because I have the lucky gift of finding the only rock in a sandy bottom deep bay, or finding a submerged sail boat in an open channel.

make sure if you havent done so yet, to pull the drive, inspect the u-joints and the bellows. there are tips in the stickies at the top of the forum.

the drive uses a special gear oil. you can use the volvo gear oil. I use amsoil.

you will need to change the raw water inlet casting that is bolted to the drive. they have a tendency to corrode.

change the raw water impeller every other year.

 

[QBhoy]

Hi. Scott won’t be far off. They will likely be B4’s or one either way. Get like for like. These 290’s are usually spot on from new with props for the boat. Never heard of them being wrong unless someone has been at it over the years. The stainless versions in those days would be c series. Hard to find good used and still silly money. New equivalent are crazy money and just not worth it on anything doing less than 50 mph.
Mighigan marine do great aftermarket versions of the original b series at half the price.