slipping coupler?

jakwi

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
184
Hi all I have a 357 alpha 4v Mercruiser repower mated up to a Alpha 1 gen 2. We are down in the florida keys this week and ran about 40 miles up the gulf side from Marathon to Islamorada and then 6 miles out to alligator reef.

I run a 19p prop , and I have a spare 17 that I sometimes use if we are heavily loaded as it gets us up a plane a bit easier, but I believe the 19 is the correct prop for my setup, 24ft cabin cruiser.

Anyway on the run up on the gulf side everything was running great, about 4000rpm there was one moment when we touched the sand while up on plane but it happened so quickly that I wasn't able to trim up or anything. It was subtle enough that none of my family even noticed it happened.

We carried on with no apparent issues went out the inlet still on plane and then out to the reef. It was a little choppy 3ft(1m) waves at 5s, so we were taking a beating. My avg speed dropped from 26 down to maybe 22 or 23, but I figured it was just the sea state I had to pus the RPM up to 4600 to keep it on plane.

Got out there, and while it was beautiful it was really to rough to enjoy and everyone was starting to feel squishy so we decided to head back.

When I tried to get up on plane it would seem to work and then at about 3000 rpm revs would jump up and propulsion would cease, I tried a couple of times and ended up trolling back at about 2500 rpm. I had the spare 17 inch prop with me so we found a shallow spot and swapped it out, I figured I'd cracked the prop hub. No big deal it happens. I put the 17 on and all was good, jumped right up on plane and ran fine. About half way back Maybe 20 miles on the return leg we are up on plane in 8ft of water 25mph, no chop and suddenly it happens again, It hits the rev limiter. I come off plane let it sit try again, no go, and look at a few things, try again and good to go. Ran 20 more miles back to the house, and no further issues. I cycled between slow and high speeds twice after this with no further issues.

This morning I pulled the hub out of the 19 and it looks perfect, no cracks, everything is fine. So the only thing I can think is engine coupler. It is weird though. The engine is a 2007 with probably no more than 150 hours on it. 99% of my running is in the intercoastal or St johns river, so no more chop than what comes up from other boats wakes.

I pull the drive every year, change the oil, inspect bellows and seals. I changed the gimbal bearing last year as a precaution, but honestly I think it was ok. I have an alignment tool that I use to reinstall and can spin it with two fingers when I'm done. My engine mounts and stringers are rock solid.

So Why would my coupler fail? Is it standard practice to change it with the repower? It was repowered by the PO, so I don't know if the coupler is original or not, if it's original the boat is a 2003. Aren't they supposed to be lifetime? Could it be anything else? How hard is it to change the coupler, and there seem to be two styles, how do I know which one I have before tearing everything apart?

Ok, sorry for the wall of text and 20 questions, and thanks for the guidance.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,548
Coupler should last longer then the boat if alignment is maintained. The PO may not have been as diligent as you, but like everything manufactured sometimes stuff happens due to a defect not found in manufacturing.

If boat spent many hours at trolling speeds then the coupler would need to be greased more often to keep the splines from wearing out

You didn't mention about smelling burnt rubber
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,410
As far as changing the coupler, it requires an engine pull.
Other causes are internal to the drive--sheared driveshaft, grenaded gears. If it's a drive issue, the input shaft will spin, but the prop won't in gear. If it's the coupler, nothing will turn when you bump the engine. The fact that it went out gradually sounds more like the coupler.
 

jakwi

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
184
I didn't smell burnt rubber, but I asked my friend that was with me and he said that for a split second he smelled something like an electrical fire, but it was a split second and he said it could have just been exhaust as wind direction was from the transom towards the bow. I stopped pushing it as soon as I recognized what was happening, though I did try again two more times with the same result. He only smelled that smell the first time though.

When it happened again with the 17p prop we didn't smell anything.

I don't think it's grenaded gears or anything like that because I was able to run for a really long period of time afterwards. The only other thing I can think is maybe shifter adjustment, but I didn't hear any grinding or anything like that. and it seems to be fully engaged when shifted into gear.

Can a coupler fail and then work again?

Thanks guys
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
I would think at this point you have to pull the drive and inspect the coupler with a light through the gimbal bearing. Also look close at the splines on the drive shaft to see if much or any metal build up there.
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,727
Hi all I have a 357 alpha 4v Mercruiser repower mated up to a Alpha 1 gen 2.

So Why would my coupler fail? Is it standard practice to change it with the repower? It was repowered by the PO, so I don't know if the coupler is original or not, if it's original the boat is a 2003.
The 357 Alpha comes as a complete bobtail including coupler so would have been replaced with the repower.

As others have stated look inside the engine compartment for rubber bits indicating slip in coupler, pull drive and inspect splines and check alignment. Coupler failure if greased and properly aligned is rare but not unheard of.
 

jakwi

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
184
Not really, but you did lower the load by going to the 17P which can help it hang
This is what I have been thinking. I think I'm going to carry on using it since we are here this week only, and want to enjoy the time, but I am going to try to be more careful with it. Worst case I call TowboatUS. No more hard runs out in the ocean. Honestly this is the most mileage I've ever done in a day, (83miles) I don't think I've ever done more than 20 before this.
 

jakwi

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
184
The 357 Alpha comes as a complete bobtail including coupler so would have been replaced with the repower.

As others have stated look inside the engine compartment for rubber bits indicating slip in coupler, pull drive and inspect splines and check alignment. Coupler failure if greased and properly aligned is rare but not unheard of.

I did look this morning, but I didn't see any rubber bits, I'll look again a bit closer. Is it possible to tell whether I need the standard coupler, 18643A5, or the Aluminum hub coupler, 8M0098795 or 861523A11 from the SN, before I pull it out or are they interchangeable?
 

jakwi

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
184
Definitely no rubber bits in the bilge, I justed checked again. Not sure if it's possible to tell what type of coupler it is from this picture.
20220705_111030.jpg
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,727
I did look this morning, but I didn't see any rubber bits, I'll look again a bit closer. Is it possible to tell whether I need the standard coupler, 18643A5, or the Aluminum hub coupler, 8M0098795 or 861523A11 from the SN, before I pull it out or are they interchangeable?
per this parts list you need 18643A5.

The others are for bravo, or jackshaft, or steel workboat models
 
Top