I want to make sure I purchase the proper model<br />for my 19 ft Starcraft. I will be purchasing them<br />In the U.S. Dont want to have to send them back.<br />Should they be ST1290-80R or ST1290-60R ?
Depends on your horsepower. If you have 150 hp then you are right on the borderline:<br /><br />17'-22', 80-150HP, 12"X9"<br />17'-22', 150-240HP, 12"X9"
I've noticed a lot of inconsistency in reocommendations myself depending on which catalog you buy from. Seems like each different seller makes up his/her own horsepower ranges for the different models.<br /><br />One of my boats is similar to yours, an 18 foot Rinker with a 135 I/O....please post what nautijohn recommends if you don't mind. Or he can chime in himself. I'm considering buying them as well. Thanks!
OK! Here is the scoop. What we all are trying to do is get and keep the boat in balance. What happens is that every boat is different and trying to determine the balance point (short of using a crane) is often a matter of experience. Some of the retailers have not bothered to update their listings and we are trying to address that.<br /><br />Lets look at hypothetical boat.<br /><br />Open Bow 19' long with a 150 HP Outboard two stroke - Use the ST1290-60<br /><br />Open Bow 19' long with a 150 HP outboard four stroke - Use the ST1290-80 Why? Because the extra weight of the four stroke motor moves the balance further back.<br /><br />Open Bow 19' long with a 200 HP V6 I/O - Use the ST1290-60 Why? Because the I/O driven boat is in better balance with the engine forward of the transom instead of sitting on it.<br /><br />Open Bow 19' long with a 220 HP V8 I/O - Use the ST1290-80 Why? The V8 is heavier even though it is forward of the transom.<br /><br />These variances are exactly why we provide a significant adjustment to regulate the pressure as needed for the specific boat. The low side of the 80 Lb. actuators over laps the high side of the 60 Lb actuators. The draw back to having too much pressure is that the tabs will lift the stern too much at cruising speeds and drive the bow down (which is the problem with hydrofoils). This will result in a loss of top end speed instead of the gain we achieve with the proper set up.<br /><br />The 135 I/O would use the ST1290-60.
OK, so I'm interested in getting a set of Monster Tabs for my '91 17' Astro w/135 hp outboard. It's too confusing. How do I know if I need the angled vs traditional. This is the maximum sized engine for this boat. Does that qualify as needing to step up to the next larger size?
Mr. Big Stuff;<br /><br />The angled tabs are for the boats where the transom is not streight accross from port to starboard. If you where to instal retangular tabs on an angled transom they would look like "duck feet". The angled tabs are cut so that the outside edge of the tab is in line or paralell with the side of the boat when installed.<br /><br />Champion bass boats for example used this hull design.<br /><br />If you still have a question please contact us agin or call 800-233-0194.
John, any new designs that help with raising the tabs when not needed such as trailering or in extreme low waters where backing with tabs may hinder you? I have a suggestion for a quick way to do this. Simply use snap pins to attach the top of the cylinders and have the top transom mount bracket extended upwards. When you want to trailer or don't need the tabs, you can unsnap the pin and move the gas cylinder to the top hole that raises the tabs above the hull. These snap pins could have a little attaching cable (like the hood pins made for race cars) to keep then from getting lost.
We have just introduced a new Bracket assemble which we call Plate Retractors (#PR500). They replace the Transome bracket. You simply move a lever handle Up or Down. Up the plate are retracted down they are in the Smart Tabs position. If you send me your e-mail I can forward pictures. Info@nauticusince.com
