Solenoid question

[Karla45]

I tryed to start my boat today and not able to get it started. I noticed that when I pushed in to engage the choke that it was not making the clicking sound. Could this mean that the solenoid has gone bad? I have a 1989 Force/Chrysler 85HP

 

[fucawi]

Re: Solenoid question

look to see if the choke linkage is moveing ..if not check if you have 12v to the solenoid .chck at the terminal block ..remember can be bad live bad ground or bad switch

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Solenoid question

Probably the piston is gunked up.
Spray with any cleaner or WD-40.
Move it by hand and spray.Then try the key and spray some more.

 

[kywings]

Re: Solenoid question

Just repaired my 98 75 hp Force. The wires were pinched between the solenoid and the motor and wore the casing off of the wires. They were dirty and had to be cleaned before I could see bare wires. When I pushed the choke the volt meter would move from 12v to 0 indicating a short. Now it works perfectly. Good luck.

 

[Karla45]

Re: Solenoid question

Moved choke with my hand and moved freely. Watched when pushing choke on ignition but was barely moving. Checked the ignition switch connection with test lamp did not light up then tested every wire on the ignition switch, nothing. I did have the key in the choke position. What I do not understand is that the motor will turn over and all accessorires are working, so how would it be that when I tested the wires on the ignition switch that nothing lit up. I tested the lamp and it is working properly too. I have to be doing something wrong with my testing. I do not have a voltage tester and need some recommendations on where to buy a good tester.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Solenoid question

The "M" terminals (blue and whte wires) Never have power to them they are separate from any other terminal. You should see the light between red (pos or battery) and blue, yellow, and green. No other combinations will light the tester.

To see if your ignition switch is the culprit with the choke, jump between red and green on the switch terminals. If the choke snaps closed, either the switch contacts are dirty or corroded. Either way, it will pay to buy a new one.

If the plunger still moves slowly, then check for a poor connection or short where the green wire connects to the choke solenoid. Check that the plunger is not sticky from old splashed oil. It should be clean and NOT oiled. The plastic sleeve lubricates it.

If all that is good, then the choke solenoid itself probably is bad and needs replacement.

 

[Karla45]

Re: Solenoid question

Well I tested the red one and nothing, tried yellow&black wire nothing, i do not have green on the switch and do not remember a blue but I did have a purple. None of them light up. On the switch for the choke my wires are yellow & black. What do you mean when you say jump between the red and green, do you just mean keep testing them back and forth. I also tryed checking these wires with the choke pushed in. Since I do not have green wire on ignition switch which wire color would I be looking for? When I check the green wire on the solenoid do I need to have the choke pushed in? I know it did not light up when I put test lamp to it with ignition switch in choke position but not engaged. Last year I had a mechanic put all kinds of grease on the solenoid arm and right at the plunger, i did clean it off last year could be that you are right about gunk, problem is that there was so much grease on the plunger.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Solenoid question

"Jumping in the sense used by mechanics and electricians means bypassing a switch or other electrical device by connecting two terminals with a short length of wire or other. So to jump the choke, you would connect the choke terminal to the battery terminal at the switch and listen for the click as the choke closes.

Your colors do confuse me a little because yellow and black usually ( on earlier Force engines ) is start, green is choke, and white and blue are stop circuit. Remind me: What year is your engine?

On the abck of the switch, if you look closely, it is labeled: "B" or bat. Is red and is battery power. two terminals are marked "M" and are the stop circuit. A white wire connect to one and a blue to the other. "S" is start, "C" is choke, and "I" is ignition, sometimes called "A" for accesory. It only has power when the switch is in run position and is used to power things you only want on when the engine is running, like gauges.

 

[Karla45]

Re: Solenoid question

I have 1989 Force 85HP. I think it was a transition year on wiring. I still have the paperwork for the ignition switch so when I was in the boat and did not see a green wire on ignition switch it threw me off a little too, but when I looked at the wiring diagram it said C coulld be green or Yellow/black wire. My ignition wiring is set up like this:
M=Black/yellow
A= Purple and a black wire
M=Black wire
S=yellow/red wire
B=Red/purple wire
C=Yellow/Black

I think I get what you are saying on the jump. I would need to get a long piece of wire and connect it to the C on ignition switch and then conncect the other end to the positive on the battery, correct? I have a marine battery that is also a starting battery(I use for my trolling motor) that is much closer to the ignition switch, so would it be okay to just use that battery instead? I guess you could also be saying to take a piece of wire and touch to the C Yellow/Black on ignition switch and then touch other end of wire to the B Red/purple on the switch? Would I need to have the key in the on position or off position? I kinda feel dumb here but I am still learning?

 

[Karla45]

Re: Solenoid question

Okay, I talked to someone who explained to me what I need to do to test the ignition switch as Frank recommended. I did go out and buy a multi-meter so now I can test other things. Will post results.

 

[Karla45]

Re: Solenoid question

I got a piece of wire put one end on the red/purple(B) wire terminal on ignition switch and then touched the other end of the wire to the Yellow/Black(C) terminal on switch. Mainly I just got some sparks. My only question here is should I have turned the key to the on position while doing this? Now I figured out why when I put the test lamp to the wires on the switch that it does not light up. I am not able to get a good ground, I had the negative wire clip attached to the small post on negative battery. There is no where on my boat for me to get a good ground at least in the front of the boat. I bought some extra bull dog clips with longer wire but this did not seem to work either if using the negative battery post. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I will check wire going to solenoid after I read what I need to set my meter too. Meter came with no instructions.

 

[Karla45]

Re: Solenoid question

Problem is now fixed. It was on the ignition switch, wire was getting corrosion so I stripped some new wire and put new connector on and now it is clicking like it used too. I really did learn alot. Thanks for input. I love this board.

 

[kywings]

Re: Solenoid question

Congrats enjoy the lake!!