Solenoid Question

Jay2310

Recruit
Joined
Aug 5, 2002
Messages
3
I have a 1986 150hp Evinrude on a 21 foot Angler.<br />It has been sitting on a trailer for three years.<br />I've been doing a lot of electrical work on it, new battery,starter,power tilt system,ignition switch,gauges so far.<br />My question is, Is there a way to test the Solenoid to determine if it is working properly?<br />Evertime I turn the ignition on the fuse from the ignition to the Solenoid breaks.<br />There is power to the Solenoid.<br />Any suggestions???
 

tesmel

Cadet
Joined
Jul 21, 2001
Messages
20
Re: Solenoid Question

Yes you can apply a 12v d.c source to the two smaller wire and check for continuity across the two larger terminal posts with a multi-tester.<br />I would disconnect all four wires from the solenoid before testing.<br />Hope this helps.<br />Terry
 

Hooty

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 2, 2001
Messages
4,496
Re: Solenoid Question

Jay,<br />If you're just going to the "on" position and not "start" there shouldn't be power to the starter solenoid. Only in the "start" position. <br /><br />c/6<br /><br />Hooty
 

Jay2310

Recruit
Joined
Aug 5, 2002
Messages
3
Re: Solenoid Question

Thanks Terry and Hooty!!!<br /><br />Terry I'll give that a try.<br /><br />Hooty, It never makes it to the "start" position.<br />The second I turn the key to the "on" position I hear a click, and the fuse goes. <br />To tell you the truth I only checked for power when the key was off and a good fuse was inserted.
 

Hooty

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 2, 2001
Messages
4,496
Re: Solenoid Question

I think you've got something beside the starter solenoid shorted, like a gauge or something. If the battery is hot and connected, there is always 12vdc to the big terminal of the solenoid. When you go to "start" you put voltage to one of the small terminals on the solenoid. If the fuse is blowing before "start", it ain't the solenoid.<br /><br />c/6<br /><br />Hooty
 

mrc

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 8, 2001
Messages
149
Re: Solenoid Question

Problem is not likely the solinoid (as others have pointed out). If this was my problem I would <br />proceed as follows.<br /><br />1) Disconnect any accessories connected to the<br /> ignition switch.<br /> Then try and blow another fuse.<br /><br /> If fuse doesn't blow, you got an accessory wired<br /> incorrectly.<br /><br />2) If fuse still blows (not good)<br /> You really need a schematic for your motor at<br /> this point in order to disconnect the items <br /> on the motor which are powered in the "on" <br /> switch position. (example power packs)<br /><br /> After said items are disconnected, try and <br /> blow another fuse.<br /><br /> If fuse blows, its in the wireing between <br /> the switch and the motor, or the wiring in <br /> the motor.<br /><br /> If fuse does not blow, then connect motor<br /> items back in one by one and try to blow a <br /> fuse after each. When fuse blows you have <br /> found your culpret.<br /><br />Hope this helps,<br />Mike
 

kart33

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 23, 2002
Messages
87
Re: Solenoid Question

I had the same deal and it took me 5 hours to find the light socket on the Tach had shorted inside the gauge. Good luck!
 

Hooty

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 2, 2001
Messages
4,496
Re: Solenoid Question

Instead of blowing a bunch of fuses looking for the short, hook a 12vdc sealbeam headlight across where fuse goes, When the light quits burning (more like glowing) you've found the short. (Another Schematic tip)<br /><br />c/6<br /><br />Hooty
 
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