SON OF A..!!

tonka329

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 9, 2015
Messages
40
Well, after investigating underneath the exhaust manifold and removing the plugs, I noticed the block was cracked and patched by the previous owner... Looks like a piece of clear plexi-glass with JB Weld... What it be possible to take a small block engine from a truck and put in this boat? I am the Commercial Side Manager at the local O'Reilly auto parts and I can get regular small block engines and parts cheap. Not sure what i would need to change to make it work in the water? Thanks in advance! Its been a bummer kind of day for me šŸ˜”
 
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stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,830
Does it leak? If not chances are it will be OK for a while. Check the oil, and if that stays clean (no water) use it for the summer and do the rebuild in the off season. that patch could last for years.
 

tonka329

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 9, 2015
Messages
40
Not sure? This could be the reason it hasn't been on the water in 12 years... This boat will not be water ready this summer anyway because it needs interior work. Does anyone think a 5.7 from O'reillys would be ok as a drop in? If so, I'll start pulling the engine and get the complete interior done and drop in the new engine! I don't have $2,800 for a new Mercruiser long block. I can get a complete engine for a little over $900 including gaskets.
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
3,028
What do you have now? You never mentioned?

a Mercruiser 260? Years matter very much with SBC..... please tell....
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
First off order a crank socket. Then remove the exhaust manifolds and risers (elbows). Those exhaust castings are very suspect, likely rotted internally in a way that kills motors. Remove the spark plugs, oil the cylinders, and let them sit a bit, maybe overnight.
Take the crank socket and bar over the motor, with a breaker bar or long ratchet.
Once you believe it has a functional rotating assembly compression test it.
Then you can pressure test the cooling system, if it's closed cooling use a car pressure tester and some mechanics line clamps. If it's raw water cooled you test by line clamping the two or 4 heater type hoses that lead to the exhaust. Then pull the inlet hose off the cooler under the port exhaust manifold. That's the engine's cooling supply hose. Rig up something to pressurize it to around 15 psi.
I used a cylindrical plug with a piece of inner tube containing a valve. I cut the tube in a circle around the tube valve, crammed the valve in the end of the plug. Then shoved them into the hose with the inner tube section surrounding the outside of the plug but inside the hose. Clamped it and voila. Air valve to the cooling system.
 

tonka329

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 9, 2015
Messages
40
First off order a crank socket. Then remove the exhaust manifolds and risers (elbows). Those exhaust castings are very suspect, likely rotted internally in a way that kills motors. Remove the spark plugs, oil the cylinders, and let them sit a bit, maybe overnight.
Take the crank socket and bar over the motor, with a breaker bar or long ratchet.
Once you believe it has a functional rotating assembly compression test it.
Then you can pressure test the cooling system, if it's closed cooling use a car pressure tester and some mechanics line clamps. If it's raw water cooled you test by line clamping the two or 4 heater type hoses that lead to the exhaust. Then pull the inlet hose off the cooler under the port exhaust manifold. That's the engine's cooling supply hose. Rig up something to pressurize it to around 15 psi.
I used a cylindrical plug with a piece of inner tube containing a valve. I cut the tube in a circle around the tube valve, crammed the valve in the end of the plug. Then shoved them into the hose with the inner tube section surrounding the outside of the plug but inside the hose. Clamped it and voila. Air valve to the cooling system.

Ok. Sounds good. How are the manifolds to clean up? Or do they need to be replaced along with the engine? lol
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,357
Ayuh, This boat has been sitting since 2003. I had it fire over for 1.5 seconds on starting fluid and it runs. Just curious on the cooling system...

Ayuh,.... Isolate the block, 'n pressure test with air then,....
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,885
Well, after investigating underneath the exhaust manifold and removing the plugs, I noticed the block was cracked and patched by the previous owner... Looks like a piece of clear plexi-glass with JB Weld... What it be possible to take a small block engine from a truck and put in this boat? I am the Commercial Side Manager at the local O'Reilly auto parts and I can get regular small block engines and parts cheap. Not sure what i would need to change to make it work in the water? Thanks in advance! Its been a bummer kind of day for me šŸ˜”

Yes, get a truck long block, replace the steel core plugs with brass. Replace the head gaskets with marine head gaskets. Install new exhaust manifolds and risers and go boating
 
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