Spark Plug Extraction

[shaw520]

Turning to my Iboat professionals for some ideas on this issue,.. Doing a complete tune up on both Merc 5.0's and and when I pulled the #6 spark plug on the starboard engine, it broke off and left the base still threaded into the cyl head. Now I just got this boat last fall and obviously the PO was long over due on a plug change because they ALL came out old, rusty, worn and with very little electrode left to speak of.
So, long story short, I bought the proper size extractor, got it snugly torqued into the base, got a REAL good bite, a 3/8" female extension fits perfectly over the extractor end, I put a 12" open end wrench on the male end of the extension, and I cant get it to budge. I put alot of strength into it and its not moving. So before snapping of the extractor, I though id ask here for some ideas. Ive soaked it with PB blaster and letting it sit overnight. As most of you know, access under the manifold with twins is VERY limited. These picture were taken with my 7mm bore scope usb camera, and used throughout the process for a better view of whats going on.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Quicker, easier and safer to just pull the head

 

[poconojoe]

I feel for you. I've broken those extractors off in the past. They can be a real bugger when broken off in there. Add heat then try the extractor? It's the first thing that came to me. Sometimes heat can be your friend. IDK..hoping the experts will chime in. Let's see...

 

[CraigBarnard]

No Title

Heat. Lots of heat. Penetrating oil. More heat. Repeat. Heat is the trick. Oxy torch kinda heat. Go slow take it easy and it will come out. No need to remove the head. Even if you do remove the head you still have the same problem. Just did one last week.

 

[NHGuy]

And don't put a crescent wrench on the extractor. Use a socket and extension. If the ratchet handle would not be able to swing in the available space get one with a flex handle. Or even better use a breaker bar so you can apply force both counter clockwise and clock wise.

Also I completely agree with heat, penetrating oil, and attempting to turn it repeatedly.
Once you get it out, it IS ok to use never-seize on the new plugs.

 

[shaw520]

All good advise,.... Ive put never seize on the newly installed plugs, and I wont wait 5+ yrs to change them like the PO did. Ive been searching the internet for a good penetrent (better than PB),.... and MANY have said that a cocktail of acetone and ATF works better than AreoKroil, PB and the rest. I dont have an Oxy torch but I do have map gas. Any other suggestions on an easy to find heat source, are those micro-torches any good ? Maybe heat then freeze with R112 or similar.

 

[achris]

I'm actually in favour of pulling the head. Yes, with the head pulled you still have the thing stuck in there, but at least you can deal with it on the bench. Also you don't risk dropping bits of shreaded metal into the cylinder.

Chris......

 

[shaw520]

No Title

I tried posting this the other night but internet wasn't working. After 3 days of soaking in a the ATF/acetone solution, it still would not budge. A friend (mechanic) stopped by as I was attempting again and said, "start the motor and bring it up to operating temps" So with one plug missing, I open all hatches, turned on blowers, and started engine, brought up to operating temps, shut it down, and gave it one more try and BAM! success!

 

[Alumarine]

Well done!

 

[poconojoe]

Awesome! Great trick. I'll have to remember that one!

 

[Jcris]

Nice!

 

[shaw520]

I'm hoping you got the rest of the plugs out without issue?

Already done,..thank you..and you can bet i wont be leaving them in there for 5+ yrs like the previous owner.