:-<br />Start off simple and check compression. That will tell the shape of motor inside the powerhead. If it comes out good- numbers dont reallly mean much as long as their over 95-100 in each cylinder and all within 10% of each other. Once you ahve done that and it checks out then you can move on and check fuel/spark. Before jumping to carbs as golden answer need to rule out other things in fuel delivery and spark...but first rule out powerhead (internal) causes.
). Until you disconnect and clean each connection you will never know. These again are some of those things you can do that prevent you from "chasing your tail" by replacing parts when the problem could end up being corroded connections. If your fuel mix is as Jb recommends, the fact that it starts well/idles/runs well in the beginning is good news. Assuming your water pump is not allowing motor to overheat (good "pee" stream from telltale), then I would first check your starting procedure for after running compared to first at dock. Did you reprime bulb (how many pumps), did you choke it both times, fast idle lever used to crank to increase rpms? Usually I have found that after running, and only sitting for around an hour or so, I dont have to reprime the bulb or choke to get started. If you are doing these then you may be flooding as JB suggested. Another way to check on things is to clean plugs...run motor just as before.... stop motor and check plugs before trying to restart. If they are clean and not fouled, then it is probably something caused by starting procedure after getting to your fishing spot. If oily after running to fishing spot but before restarting, then that would be good info to have to figure this out. THis could get you in the ballpark as to what is causing fouled plugs which is causing your hard starting. Does this sound doable to you?
