Stalling Issue

kevinwburke

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Messages
76
I have a 3.0 L Volvo Penta Engine on a 2004 bowrider I recently bought. I have no idea on the maintenance done previously. The engine is running fairly well but would stall out at idle. I have tried two treatments of gas treatment which seemed to help a bit. However, it still stalls when you throttle back quickly. If I ease back the throttle it will generally not stall. I have the idle set at 1,000 RPM.

I am not very mechanically inclined so just need to figure out next steps? Is it a carburetor issue? Any other adjustments? If it is a carburetor problem am I better off getting a rebuilt put in?

Suggestions on next steps would be appreciated.

Thanks as always for the input on this great forum.

Kevin
 

kevinwburke

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Messages
76
Re: Stalling Issue

Apparently it does not have a fuel filter you can changes....just saw this post researching it...

Your parts guy doesn't know much about 3.0L Volvos does he. The filters that look like oil filters are not standard on 3.0L engines. Not Volvo, not Mercruiser either. They should be, but they aren't.
The only filters a 3.0L has is one in the fuel pump.
Might be a good idea to install a water seperating fuel filter kit. It can save you a lot of money in repairs on a boat. Especially with the fuel we get today.
 
Last edited:

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
11,462
Re: Stalling Issue

probably not it but it does help mine - when I purchased sat for three years lots of junk to filter thru I used 6 within two months.
 

insttech1

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
340
Re: Stalling Issue

There are two filters in the 3.0; the first is in the fuel pump, and the second is a filter in the carb, where the fuel line enters.
Also, your carb probably needs to be seriously tuned, and/or just buy a rebuild kit and and get it done, to clean all the
passages out, and check the float setting.

3rd, your idle is set way too high, and may damage the drive when engaging it. You should be about 650 to 700 RPM.

If your engine won't run w/ idle down that far, you have problems.

Read the "adults only" and DIY stickies at the top of the forum; they have TONS of info to start researching to get
started on your issues.
 

insttech1

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
340
Re: Stalling Issue

The carb kit (#703-41 from Holley) was only $28 from Summit Racing. You will have to double-check to see if it works for your exact carb, by getting the numbers off of the air horn.

It is very easy to do by yourself, at home, and with a can of carb cleaner, costs you all of $35 to $40. The kit will come w/ instructions. Make SURE you buy the Holley kit, which will have good, blue gaskets, and not some aftermarket or no-name version. It will also come w/ the CORRECT marine power valve and diaphram pump for your application.
 

kevinwburke

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Messages
76
Re: Stalling Issue

Thanks for your input. Where do I find the "air horn" to get the number?

And since I am a novice at all this stuff...do you think I can still rebuild the carb with the kit? Are the directions that clear?

And finally....will it make a difference if I set the idle out of the water? Will the back pressure from the water affect the idle speed? Am I better off setting on the water?
 

insttech1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
340
Re: Stalling Issue

numbers are stamped on the top forward-facing portion of the carb.
take off the spark arrestor (gold plate) on top, and you should see two or three lines of stamped numbers.
post them on here as they are listed on the carb.

if you are semi-mechanically inclined, and take notes (pictures w/ cell phone) of every step of disassembly, it should be relatively easy to rebuild it. you just have to be carefuly since you're playing with something that contains gasoline.....so stay away from sparks and heat sources during the entire process.

the directions are marginal, but with common sense, and the pictures you take as you go along, it's not bad.

basically, when you're done, you have to check five things:
choke setting (notches listed on instructions)
float level
pump preload clearance
idle set speed
vacuum settings from the two side screws when you reinstall the new cork gaskets (vacuum gauge kit at harbor freight is about $12)

everything else should "generally" be ok as long as no one messed with the carb, rebent the linkages, or severely screwed w/ the choke
 
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